Tote Bags: Why Do We All Carry Them?

August 22, 2014, 8:50 am

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Cotton tote bags are every woman's very public fashion faux pas. We're all guilty of carrying them, all obsessed with their practicality and ALL in denial over just how old and grubby they look.

This week I spotted a woman carrying her black stilettos in a plastic Wasabi bag. This was a definite nod to those days when carrying your P.E kit/lunch to school in a Topshop (read: Jane Norman) bag was a thing.

But this whole secondary black tote bag trend has completely taken over. Even Lena Dunham is doing it.



Why? Because these basic, washing machine friendly bags carry those sensible items undeserving of a place in our actual handbag, you know, stuff like:

1. Gym kit (because you have every intention of going)
2. Spare shoes
3. Every kind of tupperware ever invented
4. Sunglasses
5. Your Kindle/ latest hardback novel/ fashion mag/ water bill
6. iPhone charger

Question: are our handbags (designer and/or high street) too good for these items? Do we need to haul all this crap around with us on the regular anyway? Yes and yes.

The thing is, why do we opt for this particular variety of overflow handbag when there are so many looks up for grabs? Affordable, standout styles that are in keeping with the rest of our outfit, styles that say "wow" *does side click* - not drab and dowdy.

The Spring/Summer 2014 catwalks showcased some beyond-beautiful arm candy (Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior and Kenzo - oh my), so I get that you want your practical shopper to be a little less key - a subtle sidekick to the show-piece.

But let's avoid anything plastic or giveaway (those freebie ones that come full of popcorn and Vita Coco). Or that looks like we've wiped the floor with it. We can do better than that.

This article was originally published on MyDaily.co.uk

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Inside Vogue Paris September 2014

August 26, 2014, 3:57 am

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By Kate Matthams-Spencer

Take a look inside the September 2014 issue of Vogue Paris, on newsstands August 20.



"Is the Parisienne real? good question. She seems so sure of herself. She makes so little effort. It's far from fair that what others struggle to achieve comes so naturally to her.", writes Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Emmanuelle Alt, in her September 2014 editorial. New Parisienne Natalia Vodianova graces the cover, bearing the style standard for Nicolas Ghesquière's first collection for Louis Vuitton, for Mert & Marcus. From contemporary Sixties appeal, to Jean Paul Gaultier's timeless Breton stripes and Pallas's perfectly cut Le Smoking, our September issue pays tribute to all those who know how to capture the subtilities of the famed Parisian chic. Alongside them are the overseas ambassadors of French je ne sais quoi, HollySiz, Aymeline Valade, Sandrine Kiberlain, Delphine Arnault, Carla Bruni and the memory of the irreplaceable Loulou de la Falaise. From fragrance to beauty and accessories - matte black, bien sûr - the Parisienne leaves the world in her wake as she explores the new crop of rooftop bars and insider addresses on both the left and right banks. Brush up on your Paris credentials, ahead of the 6th Vogue Fashion Night Out, September 16.

Vogue Paris n°950, in newsstands from August 20.

Subscribe to Vogue Paris or download the new issue on Google Play or on the App Store for your iPhone or iPad.

Is What We See Really Real?

August 29, 2014, 12:48 am

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Wow! What an incredible, exhilarating, eye-opening, jaw-dropping, crazy, spectacular week it has been. Nobody could have imagined that when I shared a photo-shop vs. non-photo-shop image to my instagram page last week that the story would be picked up by so many different newspapers and magazines from around the world. I am so humbled by the overwhelming amount of support I have received. Thank you to everyone out there who has reached out to me and offered support or told me his or her story. But most of all I want to say thank you to my Dad, who is an unbelievable, inspiring man who taught me to love the skin I am in.


Image credit: Pip Summerville


It's not everyday that a 23-year-old fashion student from Melbourne, Australia is given such a powerful platform to share her thoughts with millions of people from around the world. And what an important issue to discuss!

When I first saw that the swimwear company had taken mine and Pip's photo without any permission and drastically altered it, I was a little shocked. The shoot was a collaboration, meaning there was no payment or contract involved. The photo was therefore the property of Pip (photographer) and me. I wasn't offended or upset that they didn't like my body in particular, rather I was upset for all the women out there that society has been telling are not good enough if they are not extremely thin.

This led me to the question of "how did we get here?" It wasn't so long ago that Marilyn Monroe was celebrated for her beautiful curvy body. Fast forward in time and we are here, where beauty is equated to being thin. How have we as a society deemed it socially acceptable to drastically alter a woman's (or man's) figure in order to sell a product? This to me just doesn't seem okay. As a fashion student, I fully understand the benefits of Adobe Photoshop; it allows you to enhance an image, the colours, the contrast and the mood. However, what is not acceptable is portraying an image of a woman or man as something to aspire to, which is completely unattainable and in fact, does not exist. It's a tough world out there! The media and some members of society unfortunately perpetuate the belief that "thinner is better". But that's just not true! Luckily, things are definitely shifting away from the stereotypical woman/man that society deems as "beautiful". It is absolutely incredible to see how many like-minded people are out there ready to fight for what they believe in.

If there were one message that I would love my readers to take away from all this, would be to understand that not everything you see is real. As my Dad said on the Today Show, one day it would be terrific if photos in magazines had an asterisk at the bottom saying, "this photo has been altered". But until then, remember that we all come in different shapes and sizes, and no matter what, we are all beautiful in our own unique and individual way. That's what makes the human population so spectacular. There is no one quite alike.

In this body shape obsessed society, we have forgotten how much more there is to being human. A change is definitely coming, and I am honoured to be a part of the revolution.

Not So Fast Fashion

September 5, 2014, 9:35 am

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"There's something morally wrong with having a swimsuit or a dress that costs the same as a cappuccino", said respected fashion critic, and now Vogue International Editor, Suzy Menkes, when quizzed about her views on 'fast fashion'. This high turnover low cost business model, practised by the likes of H&M and Zara, treats us to new stock at super low prices every week. But at what cost?

While I'm firmly in favour of affordable fashion (where would we all be without the great British high street?), I'm not so comfortable with the way the price of 'fast fashion' has changed the way many of us now think about our clothes. According to Lucy Segal, writing recently in The Observer, "A piece of fast fashion will last five weeks in the average wardrobe". Do we really care that little about what we wear?

As a stylist and owner of a designer resale boutique, mixing high end and high street labels with some well-chosen second hand finds, is what fashion means to me. I treasure every piece in my wardrobe, regardless of how much it originally cost, and regularly get things restyled or repaired rather than get rid of them.

One of my old fashion favourites is an Ann Demeulemeester black leather jacket. I bought this special piece from the Belgian designer's flagship store during my first visit to Antwerp back in 2006. It's special for two very different reasons. Firstly, it holds great sentimental value, as it was bought with some money that my late grandmother left me, and secondly, the day I bought it the designer herself was in the store. I felt like a soppy teenager when I sheepishly asked her for her autograph, but she was more than happy to oblige. I was star-struck!

Come rain or shine, this is my go to jacket, so when I noticed that the lining was starting to wear quite badly I wasn't surprised. I was more concerned about being without it while I had it repaired! But after a week away with my trusted tailor, it's now as good as new. How could I ever have simply consigned this special piece to the bin?

Having a great tailor to rely on is a must have in every woman's fashion armoury. The buzz from bagging that perfect new season something, is the same high I get when I have a piece of clothing restyled or simply restored to its former glory, whether it's a designer brand or fast fashion find. Just recently, a Mango jacket of mine has had a bit of a nip and tuck, my love worn Gap jeans have benefitted from some 'debagging' and when a brand new black leather Céline dress was left for sale at the shop, it had my name on it, despite the fact that it was two sizes too big. It now hangs proudly in my wardrobe, tailored to perfection!

Treasuring our clothes doesn't have to mean an end to shopping. Far from it! But what it does mean is not settling for second best. So next time you find yourself heading for a fast fashion fix, why not take a step back from the rail and simply ask yourself, is this item truly worthy of my wardrobe?

How to Recycle Your Wardrobe for This Autumn/Winter?

September 8, 2014, 12:13 am

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Ahh, the freshness of the air, the last days of sun, and the leaves on the trees will soon start to turn brown, and lose hints of their green. This can only mean one thing: autumn and winter are on the way. Don't be depressed, this is an open door for your style transformation!

Everyone loves new seasons. There is always a sense of newness, and this, in turn, makes us want to go out and get a new wardrobe. Here is a tip: don't.

It makes no sense on spending your hard earned cash on a totally new wardrobe, when a few extra pieces can totally transform what you have. Fashion is about expressing yourself. It is about creativity. It is about being you and being comfortably in what you are rocking. It is not about spending frivolously.

So how can you recycle your wardrobe? Read on and let me be your fashion stylist.

Style idea number 1: Crop it


Photo by Geneva Vanderzeil


The cropped look never goes out of fashion. It swarves in and out, as if to say "I'm cool, chick and flirty." This autumn / winter, cut an old top and wear it as a cropped top with a nice flare skirt, or a pair of nice fitting trousers.


Style idea number 2: Make it fun




Photo by Geneva Vanderzeil

Be fun and transform an old woolly hat into a pom pom hat. You don't always need to aim for chic and corporate. Fashion should be fun too. Beyonce and other celebrities have been fans of the pom pom hat. Create your own pom pom hat and release your inner kid, and keep yourself warm at the same time. People will be impressed by your ability to switch things up, and not take yourself so seriously, and most importantly you will be warm!


Style idea number 3: Revamp old classic pieces
Repeat after me: The craft shop is my friend. Don't throw away those old, tired shoes. Revive them. Look at style trends, and revive classic shoes with pearls, glitter or cute bows. The best thing is, you will be the only one rocking these shoes. This is the best way to save yourself some money and showcase your unique style.






Photo by Geneva Vanderzeil


Style idea number 4: Jewel it up
Jewels can make a huge fashion statement when paired with a simple piece. Simply add a beautiful jewel on a pair of shoes, or a top to revamp an old piece. Gold jewels are classic accessories that reappear through different trends. You simply need to choose the right fashion accessory to match your personality.


Photo by All Things Girly And Beautiful


Style idea number 5: Play with fabrics
Go on a journey of exploration with fabrics. Mix them. Match them. Pair them up with something that you would match together. And watch people chase you down the street in awe as the wonder which designer created it.

Photo by Geneva Vanderzeil

Style idea number 6: Make it lace
My love of lace knows no bounds. It has been around for centuries, but this year, lace came back with a vengeance. Cut up an old lace top, or get some from the craft shop to revive an old summer top. Lace panelling looks great, and it is not too difficult to do. All you need is a strong needle and thread, and you can sew until your heart is content.


Photo by Li-Dali


I don't want to labour the point, but hopefully you can see how easy it is to revamp old pieces in your wardrobe. All you need is a good craft shop, a little bit of creativity and imagination, and one or two style magazines and you are good to go. Enjoy. Have fun. And let your style shine.

If you'd like to connect with Flavilla directly you can do so via her website or via email at huffpost@3coloursrule.com

Where to Drink During London Fashion Week

September 8, 2014, 9:28 am

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Yup, it's that time again so get your fashion face on, mingle with the models and be sure to hit up the BarChick London Fashion Week hotspots.

The British Fashion Council get in the girls behind London's best bar guide to bring you the official LFW bar guide forget the FROW, these are the places you want to be seen this week.

BLAG YOUR WAY IN

The King's Head

A sort-of members club on the cusp of Shoreditch, The King's Head is all about the late licence. Keep your wits about you if you want to get in here; call ahead, say you know Rocky, look hot and don't slur. This five storey converted pub is Instagram gold, hang out in Rocky's Room for taxidermied lions or the Butterfly Room for a total mind blowing. In the basement? A bona fide bashment. What's not to love?

257 Kingsland Road, Haggerston, London E2 8AS



Pelicans and Parrots

If your get-up is giving you the ick but you've got a full night of partying ahead of you, make Pelicans and Parrots your pre-drinks spot. An upmarket vintage shop to the untrained eye, the changing room houses a trapdoor and a staircase into a cellar full of rum, rude boys and hip-hop. Open weekends only you'll need the password or decent chat to get in, have faith in your blagging skills and you'll be two-stepping to MC Hammer in no time.

81 Stoke Newington Road, Dalston, London, N16 8AD

Chiltern Firehouse

It's fair to assume that people are going to be clambering over themselves to get a chunk of the Chiltern Firehouse chaos this season. Less about being waitlisted for a table and more about finding a way into the hotel bar The Ladder Shed cocktails here are every bit as chic as the 'it' crowd that chuck them back. Sass up, slim down and get your game face on. Getting in here will make you the champion of good chat.

1 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7PA



El Camion

You've been going at it like Patsy Stone for the best part of a week and Soho is starting to look like a snooze. Up the ante by tumbling down the stairs at into Dick Bradsell's lair beneath El Camion. Technically you need to be a member but mumble something about a pink chihuahua and how you think serving tequila with lemon and salt should be a crime to see the doorman step aside.

25 - 27 Brewer Street, London W1F 0RR

Cellar Door

Ideal location aside this place is everything you want for Fashion Week frivolities. Cocktails, drag queens and some good old fashioned snuff, not to mention the fact it's located downstairs in a men's public toilet. This place couldn't be more George Michael if it tried, see it to believe it.

Zero Aldwych, London, WC2E



STYLISH SNACKING

Barrafina

The same no-booking policy means bagging a table at the new Covent Garden Barrafina still relies on your ability to wait in line. If you've been queuing for shows all day then this will be a doddle, you'll have a glass of sherry in your mitt and endless plates of Spanish tapas awaiting you at the finish line. Beats catching a glimpse of someone from Made in Chelsea's ankles any day.

10 Adelaide Street, Covent Garden, London WC2N 4HZ



Opium

A former Chinatown gambling den now deals strictly in dim sum, cocktails and back alley glamour. Incense and low lighting sets the mood while bubble tea and booze brings down the tone. There are multiple storeys to choose from and hiding places a plenty but we recommend sitting at the bar where spirits have been decanted into apothecary style bottles labelled only with Chinese numeric characters.

15 -16 Gerrard Street, London W1D 6JE

Hill & Szrok

The sexiest butcher's shop and steak house in town, buy offal by day and do candle-lit dining by night. Wine is served un-fussily in tumblers and clean-cut communal dining tables mean you're likely to make friends. Butcher Tom Richardson Hill shows off his passion for all things meaty by selling free range, organic meat with 100% traceability. Leave feeling like a lean, mean, drinking machine.

60 Broadway Market, London, E8 4QJ



Clutch

Winner, winner chicken dinner. Using strictly organic, free-range chicken and none of the shady bits, Clutch is the dirty fried chicken booty-call you never need to feel guilty about the next day. Located in the thick of Columbia Road's flower market, cocktails are a literary and taste sensation, especially if you love a good 90s hip-hop throw back. The MC Hammer'd (rosemary infused tequila, rosemary syrup, lime and absinthe mist) is the perfect party starter, dance it off to the epic soundtrack at the parties out back.

4 Ravenscroft Street, London, E2 7QG

Call Me Mr Lucky

Brunch and Bloody Marys calling? The newest Breakfast Club it is before getting lucky in the hidden bar - you'll need to hunt down a member of staff and declare that you're looking to get lucky before you're led underground to this debauched concrete drinking den.

11-12 Southwark Street, London SE1 1RQ



DRINK GLAM

Artesian at The Langham

The Langham Hotel's award winning cocktail bar is a stunningly chic affair dipped in oriental décor and well-heeled guests. The cocktail list changes annually and this year it's all about vegetable juice, of course. Expect garnishes in the form of flaming sticks of sandalwood and swap glassware for golden pineapples and vintage Czech vessels, it's difficult not to be fabulous here.

1C Portland Place, London W1B 1JA



Beaufort Bar at The Savoy

The Savoy is the bench mark for all things shiny, skip the queues at The American Bar and take your schmoozing game downstairs to the newer Beaufort Bar. Dripping in solid gold (£40ks worth to be precise) it's much easier to let loose here if someone else is picking up the bill. At £25 a pop, a round of cocktails might be worth more than your Pradas, company card anyone?

The Savoy Hotel, 189 Strand, London, WC2R 0EU

The Punch Room at the Edition

Birthed by the legend who brought us Studio 54, The Edition Hotel has fast become the go-to for Fashion Week after parties. Wandering what to do with all those bottles of booze you keep finding in your goody bags? Bring them to The Punch Room and have the bartenders make them into something ridiculous. Dress up, go large and do it like Naomi Campbell did it; throw your fur to the floor and strut right in.

10 Berners Street, London W1T 3NP



Oskar's Bar at Dabbous

Who has time to wait three-months for a table? Not someone on a tight Temperley to Westwood schedule that's for sure. Yes, Dabbous may be the hottest restaurant of the moment but lurking downstairs is one of the hottest bars. Drink barrel aged cocktails by candlelight and eat bar snacks by the boy of the moment from upstairs. Ollie Dabbous' crispy, boneless, chicken wings with garlic aioli are next level delicious.

39 Whitfield Street, London, W1T 2SF

The Booking Office at Kings Cross St Pancras

What a wicked coincidence that the best building in London houses not only the Eurostar, the underground and the national rail, but also Harry Potter's platform 9 ¾ and some of the most exciting cocktails we know about. Linking to the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel if you sink too many here and miss your connection to Paris then simply book a room and catch 40 winks, darling.

St Pancras Renaissance Hotel London, Euston



COUTURE COCKTAILS

Pearl Cat & Mutton

A heralded hipster hangout, the Cat & Mutton was once responsible for the corruption of an otherwise sleepy Broadway Market. These days the boys from Ruby's rule the roost and although there's slightly less swinging from the light fittings, the standard of the cocktails is undisputedly decent. Drink the Smoky Rock (mescal, blackberries, mint) until you can conceal your shameless people watching no more.

76 Broadway Market, London, E8 4QJ



ECC

An unmarked door marks the spot and a Chinese restaurant, but this is Chinatown, what did you expect? Although the hype surrounding this place has died down, it shouldn't be forgotten that underneath all that taxidermy, candlewax and door drama are some seriously exquisite cocktails. Let Vincent choose for you. These guys run a whole host of Paris' hottest bars (and one in Ibiza) so if you want to do it like a Parisian then do it here.

13a Gerrard Street, London, W1D 5PS

Soho Grind

Hit this place with a hangover from hell and come out the other side looking bright-eyed, bushy-tailed and ready to be street-style papped. A coffee shop by day and cocktail joint by night, when it comes to killing two birds with one stone these guys are murderous. Make your morning brew a Hot Flat White Russian and nobody need know about the rum.

19 Beak St, London, W1F 9RP



Happiness Forgets

No signs, no frills, no Cosmos and no edgy haircuts, this is a Hoxton haven away from the hardcore hipsters that hang in this hood. Have you an hour to kill before dinner? A date you don't know how to squeeze in? Happiness Forgets is your friend. Make it a quick one at the bar or simmer down at one of the tables, whether you've got an hour or an evening, drinks here are made with equal measures of affection.

9 Hoxton Square, London N1 6NU

Satan's Whiskers

If you're loitering around the fashion action then you'll undoubtedly be hitting up the less salubrious parts of East London. Satan's Whiskers, bundled between newsagents, cab offices and strip clubs in Bethnal Green is a seriously good neighbourhood bar in a not so sexy neighbourhood. The well-considered cocktail list includes the sort of Salty Dogs (vodka, grapefruit juice and pink salt) that dreams are made of and the hip-hop will have you popping and locking before your drink even hits the deck.

343 Cambridge Heath Road, London, E2 9RA

New York Fashion Week: A Survival Guide

September 10, 2014, 3:15 am

≫ Next: Freyia Lillian and the Magic of 'Kiss Me Under Flimsymoon': A Lingerie Collection for Your Fairytales

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New York Fashion Week, an annual parade of passive aggressive dressing, party-crashing and big time blagging. Floods of photographers and many, many... many bloggers descend on the Lincoln Centre in the hope that their ensemble will make it into the pages of... well, anywhere really.

Whether you want to join the parade, party at the usual suspects (Milk Studios, Up and Down, Electric, Kenmare, Gilded Lily, The Standard), down cocktails at the bar or ride solo and sulk in your trusty old trackys, BarChick have got you covered.

PARTY

All over the city numerous pop-up parties celebrate designers' hard work. Anything worth rocking up to will definitely be guest-listed complete with a door girl dressed-up up in real fur and a faux smile.

• New York Mag has the list of some of the parties happening, but doesn't have your golden ticket. Advice? Dress up to the nines but don't forget to keep an air of Brooklyn about you, no Herve Ledger dresses please ladies... soz Lindsay.




• Confidence is key so walk up to the door like you own the place. Last resort, tell them your dad actually does own the place (this move has seen us side of stage at Coachella in the past).

• When it comes to giving your name do so assertively and with authority. Quite obviously you won't be on there so maybe name drop a big company, say you're working for them and that they must have just missed your name... ooops, silly them!

5 TOP TIPS:

Smile engagingly at the door girl with full eye contact, do not let her see your inner panic.



Make friends with others in the line they may just have a spare pass.

Take a female partner in crime (sorry boys, it's a lot harder for you).

Do not attempt with a big crew.

Stick around after the show to overhear where some of the secret parties are at, chances are these Fashion Week goers have nothing to chat about apart from Fashion Week, the next show and where the party is at.



Don't stay long at the party, these are smash and grab events, get your free booze and get out of there.

DRINK

FOR CONTINENCE

The Smith

Whether you're killing time between shows or just want to grab a drink near the action, The Smith is your man. Over the road from the Lincoln Centre grab a cocktail any time of day, it may be in a tourist area but the food and booze really is bloody decent.



FOR GLAMOUR

Gramercy Park Hotel

Whether it's breakfast or an after-party you're looking for, The Gramercy will deliver. Hotel bars the Jade and Rose are popular on the after-party circuit, but notoriously difficult to get into. Stake out during the day and get to know the staff, they may just help sneak you in later.



FOR A SPEEDY EXIT

Welcome to the Johnson's

If you can handle the circus no more then get yourself to the Lower East Side, immediately. The 70s awaits you at Welcome To The Johnson's pool table, jukebox and dirt cheap drinks.... See? You're happier already.



Words by Sophie Sumner, BarChick's New York party animal

Freyia Lillian and the Magic of 'Kiss Me Under Flimsymoon': A Lingerie Collection for Your Fairytales

September 10, 2014, 3:29 am

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I encountered Flimsymoon by pure chance. A few months back, during my daily dose of browsing the Twitter-sphere, I stumbled upon Ragini Nag Rao's profile - a fellow blogger and one who has become a dear friend. And on her page was a little message from user "Flimsymoon." The name itself intrigued me. It was beautiful, metaphorical and whimsy. But upon clicking onto the profile, I instantly entered an emotional whirlwind: a journey from intrigue to fascination and ultimately to enamored admiration.

Flimsymoon - a collection of lingerie - was quite frankly unique to anything I'd ever seen. Balancing femininity, the erotic and the playful, its knickers, bras and accessories tapped into a perception of beauty that I've always been drawn to, but never quite been able to express. Before my eyes were pure silks, meticulous hand embroidery, velvet elastics and bow fastenings that, for me, called to mind Renoir. I could imagine the woman of "Dance in the Country" wearing this romantic, innocent lingerie, underneath her flirty smile and childlike dress. I could see myself strutting around the house in nothing but the Undine knickers and sequined collar, paired with my glittery Steve Madden marble flats. The collection was, and is, something otherworldly; capable of enchanting one at first sight. And so the journalist in me contacted designer and creator Freyia Lillian immediately - the 24-year-old Scarborough native and Manchester Metropolitan graduate whose mermaid-esque duck egg hair (accompanied by a love for The Little Mermaid and other animal bride tales), wide eyes and partiality to sparkly things make her just as charming as her work.





From a young age, Freyia loved to draw ladies with "interesting clothes on in interesting situations." But she was also enraptured by narratives in storytelling, poetry and the novel. I think the latter is what drew me to her collection from the beginning. Every item - from the swan-like Odette knickers to the delicate Giselle bra seem to take you through a fairytale. When Freyia explained that romantic ballet heroines inspired this collection, everything suddenly fell into place. "I'm fascinated by the notion of a sexuality that is quite overt in some ways, but not overt in the sense of being totally naked," she said. "See-through fabrics and carefully-placed things, for instance, and the idea of interacting with the lingerie, are really important to me." In looking at her designs, you can see that this isn't the kind of lingerie you simply put on and forget about through the day. It's meant to be something you experience, play with and wear just as much for yourself as for a partner. It's meant to awaken that innocent, childlike quality within, whilst still preserving and juxtaposing the more grown-up, womanly side.

There is also a vulnerability that radiates in every item - and it, too, is something I couldn't have put into words. "I'm really interested in perceiving vulnerability as a strength, not a weakness," Freyia commented. "It enables you to be open to experiences and emotions, and it means you can be empathetic to other people." As someone who has always been criticized for being too sensitive, and too emotional, this is something I could relate to deeply - and Freyia, too, is quite a sensitive, emotional soul.



Because it is impossible to discuss lingerie without delving into constructs of femininity and beauty, we also chatted about portrayals of femininity prevalent currently within our culture. One that seems to recur as of late is the S&M, dominatrix-inspired persona - think Rihanna or Lady Gaga. And whilst there is nothing wrong with this representation of femininity and strength, Freyia and I both agreed that this anti-flirty/anti-girly aesthetic is sometimes a bit too obvious. "You can empower yourself with soft, subtle, more vulnerable ideas," she said. "My personal perception of what is sexy is a bit more mysterious - leaving something to the imagination and kind of toying with those ideas, so it's more playful and flirty. I guess that sort of ethereal, otherworldly femininity is something I'm attracted to."

Something that, undoubtedly, also plays into designing a collection of lingerie are notions of romance and sex. And Freyia finds herself thinking often of gender politics, the political side of what it means to be feminine or not be feminine and relationships between men and women from psychological, historical and biological standpoints. Jokingly (except not actually that jokingly), she pointed out, "I'm really fascinated by conception! The Great Sperm Race is one of my favorite documentaries. It's hilarious. And amazing." Her other - less bio-focused inspirations - include couture lingerie brand Strumpet and Pink, Lulu Magazine, Kirsten Dunst, 1930's lingerie, Sofia Coppola, Lily Cole and Rodarte (their flirty, more fairytale-like stuff, of course).



What I found even more impressing about Freyia and Kiss Me Under Flimsymoon (the collection's full name), is her willingness to challenge, paired with a desire to change, the way the fashion industry and the media present and perceive femininity and beauty. When you look at Freyia, you see a stunning, petite, magical-like being in front of you. But like most women, she has struggled with body image - something she suggests might have to do with being a creative person who was quite aware of her body from a young age. "Being interested in fashion growing up, I knew that I was not the 'ideal' image in the industry," she said. "But what I would want to see as a future for presentation of femininity would be referencing to all those different, beautiful archetypes of beauty." References that change from era to era, from nation to nation, from person to person. And when it comes to her own work, she hopes to someday incorporate an extended range of sizes to promote the body positivity and size inclusivity she believes in.

As for the future of Flimsymoon, Freyia's goal is to position herself in a high-end part of the market. "I'm using all natural fabrics. It's all screen-printed, hand-printed and hand embroidered," she notes. "And none of those prints or embroideries would translate to machine or digital print." And the thing is - it wouldn't work. The beauty of Flimsymoon is in the subtle yet elegant detail. To think of the designs being digitally processed would be a betrayal unto their essence. It sounds dramatic; but it's truly not. There is a love, an innocence, a sense of magic and a wonderment to this collection. To imagine it someday being part of independent boutiques, or housed on a simple yet gorgeous online shop, and carried in everything from an 8 to a 28, is truly a dream. And one I will be hoping and pining for myself.



Freyia launched her campaign on the 30th of August, and in the next three weeks she is fundraising via Kickstarter to produce the final pieces of her first size range. If you'd like to join the Flimsymoon-cause, please visit her Kickstarter campaign here. As noted in the campaign profile, "This is your chance to weave your thread into the fabric of the Flimsymoon story. Your kind donations, whether big or small, will all add up to make our dreams possible, and bring our fairytale products a step closer to the shelves."

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Fashion Week: A Private or Public Affair?

September 11, 2014, 3:12 am

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It's September, which in the world of high fashion heralds the start of spring! Yes, it's that time of the year when the industry's great and good embark on their whirlwind tour of the four fashion capitals, to witness first hand what designers have in store for us next season.

But there have been increasing calls from ardent fashion fans to open these 'trade shows' to the public, and as part of i-D magazine's #IDFashionMonth, the case for and against this plea has been debated online.

Firmly in the yes camp is writer Mallory Rice, who argues, "...being an event at which professionals need to get actual work done is not a good reason to keep the public out of it". After all, he goes on to say, live concerts are not just for rock critics. He believes that great clothing is art, and as such, access shouldn't be restricted to the privileged few.

The case against, put by Anders Christian Madsen, i-D's Fashion Features Editor, seems rather less succinct. He believes that making fashion week public would destroy its raison d'être, going on to say that if the 'precious moment' that's created between designer and reporter or designer and buyer when witnessing a show first hand is lost, then ultimately, we will all lose. Why? Because without expert industry opinion, individual fashion shows would lose meaning. This to me seems more of a case for maintaining the role of the press.

A much more straightforward, and vehement, dismissal of the case for making fashion week public was made by the Independent's Fashion Editor, Alexander Fury, who in response to Mallory Rice's piece simply tweeted "Fashion is not entertainment. It isn't art. It is a business and these are trade shows, not a three-ring circus". Whether fashion is art is, I think, a matter of personal opinion, but I do believe that it's quite difficult to argue that fashion is not entertainment and that these are simply trade shows, especially when designers themselves are blurring the lines between what is private and what is public.

The catwalk show has come a long way since its inception back in 19th century Paris. It was customary for designers of the day to use static mannequins to show their clothes to clients and buyers. That was until the 'father of haute couture', Englishman Charles Frederick Worth, introduced the concept of the fashion parade, which has since evolved into the spectacle we are familiar with today.

I was privileged to attend Ann Demeulemeester's autumn/winter catwalk show back in 2007. My boyfriend and I travelled to Paris for the fifteen-minute presentation, which on paper probably sounds ridiculous, but for a fashion obsessive and Demeulemeester devote, this was the invitation of a lifetime! Standing amidst a sea of Ann's black clad fans, I was transfixed as the sullen models stalked the catwalk in the designer's signature androgynous styles, accompanied by haunting music and low, mood enhancing lighting. I also vividly remember the presence of the Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, Anna Wintour, hiding behind her trademark dark sunglasses, swathed in fur, and flanked by two burley security guards. But this was in the days before developments in the digitization of fashion, the growth in social media and the courting of the consumer turned fashion critic.

The once simple fashion parade, witnessed by an intimate audience, is now part of a worldwide event accessible to all, albeit virtually, with live streaming straight from the catwalk. First introduced by British super brand Burberry back in 2010, the company is now expected to launch direct selling via Twitter at London Fashion Week. With these very public orientated developments, not forgetting the role of the blogger now as front row fixture, can fashion week really be considered just a series of trade shows?

And fashion as entertainment? Well according to Matthew Schneier writing in the New York Times it's "...the order of the day". Designers such as Alexander McQueen were well known for eschewing the traditional catwalk show for a more experience based presentation, and others are now following suit. Last season, Rick Owens caused quite a stir when he hired a dance troupe to present his collection, and during New York Fashion Week this week we've already had an 'immersive presentation' of music, dance and art (Gareth Pugh) and a play (Opening Ceremony).

The 'not entertainment' argument is surely weakened further when you consider the celebrity circus that now surrounds fashion week. Stars such as Beyoncé and Rhianna are rumoured to be paid six figure sums by designers to appear at their shows, with media coverage of A-list attendees often eclipsing that of the clothes!

Fashion is a business yes, and like any business today it is constantly looking for new ways to engage the consumer. And while we can sit in front of our computer screens and catch catwalk shows in real time, perhaps the next step is the introduction of ticketed fashion week events? After all, nothing compares to experiencing a show live. I can vouch for that!

AW14 Trend Forecast

September 12, 2014, 6:44 am

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Are you ready for AW14? If you're not sure what to wear this season, here's my top trends to inspire you.

WIT's Laura Fantacci at LFW

Zips
Exposed zips are having a high fashion moment as seen on the catwalks of Dior, Stella McCartney and Alexander Wang for Balenciaga. In the denim world they have moved from being simple ankle zips to instead add detail on the pockets and thighs. They give a strong, directional look following the biker inspired trend. Take a look at how cool fashionista Kinvara Balfour looks with her Paige Edgemont jeans teamed with a statement knit or a wardrobe staple leather jacket.



Leopard print
Leopard print is a perma-trend, as seen at the shows of Givenchy and Chloe, and deserves a place in the modern wardrobe. This look is timeless so consider a piece from La Prestic Ouiston, a French brand which I love as it uses vintage inspired prints mixed together. For all out leopard, go retro with the beautiful silk twill Dehors Silk Trench or the Classic Panther Shirt. Team with white skinnies like Kinvara below for a chic look.


Oversize/outsized knits
Oversize is gathering pace with slouchy sweaters and long chunky cardigans taking to the catwalks of The Row, Peter Pilotto and Prada. Think block colour, think pastels, think prints, anything goes. Leon & Harper have a beautiful standout piece with a Bohemian inspired piece mixing leopard print and autumnal colours for an easy throw-on to wear over jeans and a tee. For super luxe knits try a cashmere style like the girls pictured from blog WeAreTwinset are wearing, Philippa Bloom and Sarah Tankel Ellis have team their slouchy knits with cool boyfriend jeans.


Monochrome
Monochrome can be versatile as seen on Celine, DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Bottega Veneta but this season either go chic or go sporty. Bella Freud specialises in fine knits with slogan designs as worn by Kate Moss and Alexa Chung, these are delicate pieces with phrases like 'Ginsberg is God' and simply '1970' on them. For sports luxe Aiko's collection is cool and edgy from graphic tees to their oversize sweaters. The phrases are clever and irreverent with 'Sayonara Paris' and 'Aurevoir Tokyo' perfect for a girl on the go. Or go classic with black jeans, crisp white shirt and black jacket as worn by my good friend Maria Hatzistefanis founder of Rodial.



Grey
Grey was everywhere at the AW14 shows, notably Derek Lam, Emilia Wickstead, Valentino and Micheal Kors. It continues to be a understated, elegant alternative to all black, adding a slightly softer side to your look. For tops, slouchy slogan jumpers from Wildfox are soft and cosy whereas Eleven Paris offer graphic tees with art inspired prints. If you're looking for the jeans in the perfect shade of grey, try high-waisted IDA Rizzo in Foggy London as worn by WeAreTwinset blogger Philippa Bloom.



Art
Art is providing light relief this season with fun, bright colours and prints adding to basic shapes this season as seen on the catwalks of Matthew Williamson, Dries Van Noten. London-based designer Simeon Farrar adds neon coloured paint to his pieces overlaying it with the ditsy print floral sweater. A tweet I sent about my glittery Miu Miu sandals having a neon sole inspired his grey jumper with 'My glitter neon soul' written on it surrounded by a pink heart. How cool does this look worn by the queen of vintage style Carmen Haid with leggings and trainers. For a nod to the 80s try a neon rainbow black long sleeved top with a unicorn emblazoned on the front to embrace the trend.


Metallic
Metallic is softer and more subtle this season, edging into your day-to-day wardrobe as seen at Marc Jacobs, Christian Dior and Mary Katrantzou. For AW14 you'll notice plenty of metallic thread, glitter and sequins adorning tops and knits. Mauro Grifoni is an Italian brand with metallic detailing in their slouchy long sleeved Lucemax Knit and matching hat for Winter. I love how fashion and beauty editor Lisa Haynes wears hers with a statement necklace and printed jeans - fabulous!



Oversize trousers/ Boyfriends
Although the skinny jeans still reign supreme, boyfriend jeans are continuing to be a contender for the crown. I wear mine high-waisted in a dark indigo turned up at the ankle in the style of Marilyn Monroe, she was the inspiration for my IDA Bobby Dazzler Jeans in Fifties Monroe. I also love the loose boyfriend jeans from Current/Elliott or Frame Denim to wear with heels like the queen of shoes her self Natalia Barbieri of Bionda Castana. Wear them rolled up or cut the hems off to wear loose and frayed at the bottom. If you love the shape but like a print, try printed pyjama style loose trousers and team print on print for a high fashion look.


Tweet me with your new season suggestions and any denim dilemmas!

ADI Delivers This Season's Must-Have for Fashion Victims

September 12, 2014, 6:46 am

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As London Fashion Week opens, Animal Defenders International has launched the ultimate accessory for those looking to put compassion at the heart of fashion.



Our new design features a young fox - one of the millions of animals farmed for fur each year - and through our fashionable friends this handy card will alert designers, retailers and shoppers of the pain behind products featuring real fur.

Despite fashion's continuous evolution, a number of designers have doggedly clung to their use of fur and will, once again, be showcasing their deadly creations during London Fashion Week. They include Joseph, Mulberry, Paul Smith, Burberry, Tom Ford, Matthew Williamson and Julian McDonald.

Once seen as the ultimate symbol of wealth and glamour, fur is now quite rightly reviled by most, who know the reality of this highly unethical trade. Yet more fur is creeping back onto the catwalk and our high street as the industry rebrands itself, glossing over the brutal reality with the assurance of so-called 'ethical' certifications.

Our investigations have revealed the true horror of animals farmed for fur. We went undercover in 30 fur farms across Finland - a major fur producer -including those 'certified' by the Finnish government.

In scenes that could only be considered as categorically unethical, we found animals - like the young fox featured on our card - with open infected wounds, hideously overgrown gums which made eating and drinking difficult, deformed legs, infected or missing eyes, and chewed off tails. The barren cages in which they were kept were dilapidated and dangerous, with babies becoming caught in the mesh flooring.

It was impossible to distinguish the 'certified' farms as there was little difference in the animals' shocking conditions.

This is the grim reality of fur.

No matter how you dress it up, that fur coat, bag, accessory or trim is the product of a lifetime of unimaginable suffering and a painful death for the animals involved. The fur industry inflicts this suffering on millions each and every year.

It doesn't have to be this way. There are better, kinder alternatives to fur so please always make it fake and order ADI's 'Is that fur real?' card to let others know about these victims of fashion.

'Is that fur real?' cards are available from ADI at info@ad-international.org. Find out more about the fur industry: www.ad-international.org/fur

Dear Vogue, Big Bums Aren't Back In Fashion, a Body Part Isn't a Passing Trend

September 12, 2014, 8:46 am

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Big bums are back in fashion. At least that is the latest trend report from US Vogue.

"The big booty has officially become ubiquitous," writes Patricia Garcia. "In music videos, in Instagram photos, and on today's most popular celebrities, the measure of sex appeal is inextricably linked to the prominence of a woman's behind."

She's talking, of course, about the new-wave of coveted derrieres. From Kim Kardashian and Jen Selter to Iggy Azalea and Nicki Minaj, women with big bums seem just about everywhere. And the booties of yesteryear - think J-Lo and Beyonce - are having a renaissance (not that their bountiful bottoms ever really went away).

As a woman in the possession of a large bottom, I suppose I should be... erm... proud. I've never fitted into the cookie-cutter of high fashion prescribed by Vogue or its competitors. And suddenly here we are - my ass and I - totally and utterly en trend.

But instead of feeling flattered, their olive branch - that casually dissects the female body and pigeon holes us into the 'have bums' and the 'have nots' - has left a nasty taste in my mouth.

It's all well and good for us jumping on lads' mags for objectifying women's bodies, but I fail to see how this is any different. The effects of such talk are damaging both physically and psychologically.

There's nothing we can really do to drastically alter our body types (save going under the knife), so this skinny vs. curvy war on women's bodies has got to stop.

Growing up as a consumer of pop culture and women's magazines, there was only one body type to have: skinny.

As a result we have a generation of perfectly-proportioned women who are too embarrassed to get into their bikinis, flitting between fad diets and having internal battles when faced with their reflection in the mirror. I'm friends with these girls and, I loathe to admit, I am one of them.

So, holding up another unattainable body type to aspire to is only going to make women feel inadequate - and enough is enough.

Until Vogue and other media outlets learn that women's bodies come in all shapes and sizes, we're never going to make progress. The only thing that matters is to be a healthy weight and to feel confident, the rest is all subjective.

Thank you for telling me that a body part I've had my entire life is in fashion, Vogue, but frankly you can shove your opinions up your arse.

The Best Part of London Fashion Week

September 15, 2014, 4:56 am

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When I perused the London Fashion Week events schedule earlier this week I was intrigued and thrilled to read about something called the Model Zone.

Essentially, the Model Zone provides models with a place to eat, drink and rest between LFW shows and presentations. Magazines are sprawled over coffee tables, chilled out music fills the room and there is a plethora of snacks and meals on hand from the coolest and healthiest eateries London has on offer.

The Model Zone, an initiative of the British Fashion Council as part of the Model Health Programme also provides a psychologist who is available daily for private sessions with models.

Having worked behind the scenes at LFW, I have witnessed first hand the pressure and stress that models are frequently placed under. At one casting a young model mid stride rolled her ankle. Like a baby giraffe attempting its first steps, her lanky legs collapsed under her and she sat on the floor with a look of defeat, "I rolled it during a big show in New York Fashion Week, but I have to keep going," she said as I stared at her notably swollen and painful looking ankle. With determination she stood back up and with a slight hobble carried on like a trooper.

Whilst there are a lot of perks within the modelling industry, many of which I am awfully jealous of, it is an incredibly glamourised industry that is often considered frivolous and not recognised as the unforgiving, relentless and tiring business it in fact is.

Supermodel Cara Delevingne typically may be perceived as fun loving and living a carefree life. However during fashion weeks Cara is known to suffer from stress induced psoriasis. At Paris Fashion Week in March 2013 Kate Moss saw Cara in such a state that she demanded she seek medical treatment. If Cara, with the world at her feet is not immune to the stress of the industry just imagine what it can do to aspiring models who are younger and in a more vulnerable state.

While we could pass it off by simply saying this is a just part of the business, I strongly believe that each member of the fashion industry has an obligation to protect models, firstly for their own wellbeing and secondly because models are so admired and copied by people everywhere. An initiative like the Model Zone, which is expected to make models happier and healthier during this high-pressured week is a major step in the right direction.

From all recounts the Model Zone is a huge success, providing a calm amongst the chaos. It is a testament to the work that the British Fashion Council does and the positive changes they are making to the industry. I trust and hope that every fashion week around the world quickly follows suit.


www.victoriadrysdale.com

Image copyright: British Fashion Council

Tracksuit Bottoms, Impractical Tops, Dressing Dilemmas

September 22, 2014, 9:43 am

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Having had my first son 10 months ago, I became suddenly aware of how little support there is available to new mums and keeping up their self-esteem. Whilst there is plenty of style advice around for expectant mums, and maternity fashion in most high street shops, once the baby is born, there is not much in the way of mum support on what to wear to help feel 'you', keep your confidence up and stay practical. Whilst it is true that the new baby is the most important thing in your life, it is also important to retain a little bit of your old self. Yes, you are entering a new phase in your life, as a parent, but that doesn't mean you have to give up being you.

I found that after my son was born, I was suddenly stuck with a completely impractical wardrobe - full of clothes that didn't suit my new body shape, or were impractical for baby. These feelings are echoed by recent research, which found that 87% of new mums feel that their once stylish collection is now redundant - with most suffering baby wardrobe envy!.

What is more shocking about these stats is that one in four new mums feel they don't have any clothes suitable for breastfeeding. This is why I've pulled together Pram Glam, a guide to dressing post pregnancy. The guide is full of handy tips on how to dress for every occasion post birth. Here are my top three!

The Shirt Dress

The denim shirt dress should be a staple in any new mum's wardrobe. It can feel overwhelming having lots of guests visit when you're sleep deprived and not quite feeling yourself, and this is the perfect quick fix to throw on at a moment's notice and still look great. As well as looking fabulous, a shirt dress is front opening, so perfect for breast feeding, and has the added bonus of being really comfy.

The Trapeze Dress

Don't dread the thought of dressing up and going out - the trapeze dress has a slightly triangular shape and structure, giving you plenty of room whilst offering a deceptive and flattering look. This is the perfect dress for any formal occasion, when you have left your little one with an unsuspecting family member...

The Crossover Top with Patterned Trousers

A crossover top is incredibly chic but also brilliant for breastfeeding - what's more it offers an alternative to shirts, which are the normal go-to in the first few months. Maternity jeans can also get a bit monotonous after 10 months; so pair this with patterned trousers, which look great with converse or ballet flats, and will give you a whole glam new look.

I partnered with Persil Non-Bio and Comfort Pure to create "Pram Glam: a guide to post-pregnancy fashion" available at www.persilandcomfort.co.uk

Why Should You Not Miss the Next London Fashion Week?

September 24, 2014, 4:27 am

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London is a trendy city. We get that. Twice a year, all of the designers, fashion journalists, bloggers, stylists, photographers, models and fashion enthusiasts descend on the great city for a week for one reason, and one reason alone: London Fashion Week. I have attended a number of London Fashion Week events over the years and I never get bored; the tailors, the models, the cuts, the fabrics, the décors and the people I meet of course.

London Fashion Week is normally reserved for journalists, buyers and those that genuinely play a role in the industry. But this doesn't stop the fashion enthusiasts who crave to see their photos in fashion magazines, be photographed by famous photographers such as The Sartorialist, to meet celebrities, to someday model for renowned designers, to become the next designer to present their collection on the catwalk of the Somerset House or to simply be noticed by the key players in fashion.


Kaltrii - Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


So what really goes down at London Fashion Week? Is it all just champagne and clothes? No, it's really more than that.

It is first and foremost a lot of hard work. New and established designers have the opportunity to showcase their collections to a mass audience which is made up of buyers, journalists and key decision makers. You can literally feel the pressure sometimes as they work hard to ensure that not one piece of thread is out of place. I had the chance to be drawn to the fascinating worlds of some amazing designers.

Teatum Jones, debut show at LFW, told us the story of Nina Simone through their clothes. I especially love the attention to detail with the drops of sweat that never drop.


Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Tony & Guy took us backstage for the preparation of Jean-Pierre Braganza catwalk. I witnessed real professionalism of running the show backstage.


Photo taken by Kaltrina for 3 Colours Rule



Photo of Flavilla Fongang, taken by Kaltrina for 3 Colours Rule



Photo taken by Kaltrina for 3 Colours Rule


But also I saw the collection of Faustine Steinmetz: A word of dreams

Photo taken by Laura for 3 Colours Rule


Jasper Conran: Simplicity, Print & Elegance

Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Daniel Romeril: The Free Women of this Wild World

Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


Lucas Nascimento: Freedom and Elegance

Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


Toga: The Complex Women in a Chaotic World

Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


Isabel Garcia: So Chic & Sultry

Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


London Fashion Week is also great for networking. In the industry, as loyal as you are to a brand, you never know when your big break is going to be. Many industry bods go armed with business cards and a smile to mingle with existing compadres as well as sussing out the new people.

So many talented people meet, interact, take photos of one another and share ideas to help each other. It is a place where the common interest is fashion. London Fashion Week is about inspiring one another.


Miss Susie Lau - Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Arian Humirang - Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Leroy Dawkins (in the middle) - Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Sho Nemoto - Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang



Golden Man - Photo taken by Flavilla Fongang


As a stylist and fashion writer, it is my duty to check in with designers in order to discover the upcoming trends to keep my clients looking dashing. The fashion world is so inspiring, fascinating and captivating.

So if you thought London Fashion Week was all champagne, clinking glasses and high class snobbery, think again and spare a thought for the people that work tirelessly in the industry, not just in February & September, but all year round.

If you'd like to connect with Flavilla directly you can do so via her website or via email at huffpost@3coloursrule.com

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Women, Cycling and Fashion: The Rise of House of Astbury

September 24, 2014, 4:29 am

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Photo credit: Monika Zamojska

It had something to do with the right people at the right time. In a house in South-East London, by the way of a perfect storm of creativity and righteousness, House of Astbury was born. A clothing company that creates women's reflective cycling wear, House of Astbury makes clothing that is both fashionable and subversive.

The mission statement is simple; create women's street wear that is both practical as well as empowering. Not many would think cycling wear could be at the forefront of tackling street harassment, but as House of Astbury has shown, thinking creatively gets the best results.

Never ones to do things the ordinary way, I met up with founders Monika Zamojska, Ester van Kempen, Ren Aldridge and Liepa Kuraitė to talk about the genesis of House of Astbury, DIY fashion, and why cycling is punk as fuck.

House of Astbury began in early 2013 when a rabble-rousing group of punks moved into a house in Peckham. Having worked in the cycling industry for many years Monika was struck by the fact that cycling wear just wasn't that nice. Bulky and gawky looking, it was never any fun to wear. So teaming up with her new flatmates, all keen cyclists, together they decided to do something about it.

Reminiscing about the early days Monika tells me of how House of Astbury started. "I've worked in the cycling industry for years now and as one of my jobs I had a quick look at reflective clothing. I realised Ren knew screen-printing and Ester making clothing. I was like 'Oh my god this is brilliant'. We can come all together and come up with something great, come up with something amazing."


Photo credit: Monika Zamojska

House of Astbury is not just about making good clothes but, as Ester explains to me, a multifaceted project with a definite social slant. "We have all the issues that we want to challenge but at the same time we want to make cycle wear [that can be worn] on a daily basis." The issue at the core of House of Astbury is street harassment. As avid cyclists, members of House of Astbury have experienced street harassment, from the casually sexist to the downright threatening.

"As a woman cyclist you do have a different experience than a man," says Liepa. She gives me the example of when her and a flatmate were cycling to university, a car began to drive slowly beside them as they cycled and the men inside started to condescendingly shout 'yeah you go girls'. No, it wasn't meant as a 'compliment' but an act of intimidation.


Photo credit: Monika Zamojska

It was instances like that, which thrust House of Astbury into creation. The idea that clothes were more than mere material, that they could be an act of protest took hold. Ren Aldridge has long dealt with street harassment in her art and it was a chance meeting between her and the feminist group Hollaback! London that helped spark a successful collaboration. The House of Astbury/Hollaback! London t-shirt has been wildly popular. Featuring an image of Thelma and Louise on the front and on the back the printed slogan 'you watch your mouth, buddy', the statement can be seen clearly in the day and is illuminated at night when car lights are shone on it.

As Liepa points out the t-shirt automatically provides "a comeback on your back". Ester, agreeing, tells me how empowering women is a large part of what House of Astbury is all about. The response from women has been heartening, with orders coming in from all over the world and messages of support.


Photo credit: Monika Zamojska

Yet that's not the only thing that makes House of Astbury interesting. Strong DIY influences can be seen in every aspect of its work. The founders of House of Astbury are all involved in the DIY punk scene, whether that be through playing in punk bands, putting on gigs or attending shows. It's an element that House of Astbury bring to cycling wear and something that can't easily be disconnected.

"It's the scene that we're in, the DIY punk scene is really important to us," Ester says. Continuing she says "the whole way of doing it I think that is the biggest inspiration." Ren is more matter a fact about it all, it was realistically, the only route they could take. "What other way would we do? I think because we're making stuff that aims to empower women, we as women, want to be in control of it. We have had offers from people who want to muscle in and take over and we've been like no! We don't want to be taken over."

House of Astbury has been a huge learning curve for everyone involved. Although Ester had experience in the world of Fashion, having interned for J.W. Anderson, it was still very much a process of trial and error. Many things went wrong in the trial stages, long nights of printing, sewing and designing. Yet, because they let it grow organically they've been able to adapt quickly to changing situations, and while things have naturally gone wrong, Ester believes they've been able to adjust and work with it.

The success House of Astbury has had so far means the possibility of further collections has grown. Collaborations are high on their list and they already have a few in the working stage. They've also had a number of businesses interested in stocking their products and they are constantly looking out for new ways to incorporate reflective elements into their designs. All this, coupled with the positive feedback they're getting from customers, means that the trail House of Astbury is blazing forth for women cyclists looks set to continue with renewed confidence.

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You can visit House of Astbury's website at www.houseofastbury.co.uk

Made in Chelsea Fashion - High Street Edit - Top Three Topshop looks AW14

September 24, 2014, 8:58 am

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High Street Edit is my new series for online fashion channel, Pose. I explore some of the best fashion trends this season. In my first episode I've handpicked some of the best looks of the season from high street favourite, Topshop.

My first look is some houndstooth midi trousers, a cable knit sweater and a light blue denim jacket. These trousers are very flattering, comfortable and the print is bang on trend. I also love the pony skin boots. They look and feel expensive, but don't have a hefty price tag.





The second look is my London boho chic look. What's great about it is you can wear it out at night or put on some tights and a floppy hat for daywear and take them off if you go out to play. The shorts also look awesome with a cropped faux leather t-shirt.





I love the green pumps from my final preppy look. I fell in love with them as soon as I saw them. They're also perfect with midi trousers or a pair of jeans. This look is great for daytime and a casual office look. The skort is also a safer way to get those pins out.

All the links to the items are in the description box, so there's no need to spend hours browsing. Next week, I'll be exploring three of my favourite kimono looks.

Why the Eternal 'Size Zero' Debate Is Nonsense

September 25, 2014, 4:42 am

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I usually try to stay away from that old chestnut 'the size zero' debate but a model came into my agency this week after having been turned away from another agency for being 'too fat'. For our agency however, she was absolutely perfect and to be honest I offered her a contract on the spot!

As I'm sure you know another London Fashion Week has just passed and with it the usual comments about skeletal models with eating disorders taking to the runway. Of course, to balance it out plus size retailer Evans put on their own LFW show with fuller figured ladies strutting their stuff on the catwalk... just to prove a point if nothing else.



The problem I have with all this is that it seems like the only way anyone ever responds to this constant size zero complaint is to bring out plus size, or often just overweight, women to try and counteract all the lack of fat on the other runway models. Of course, Evans was greeted with a big hooray because apparently the only type of model that isn't a size four is a size eighteen.

What nobody seems to mention is stick thin bony runway girls - and for that matter plus size models - are a tiny microcosm of the modelling industry. The girl who walked into my agency was a healthy size 8/10 which is what 90% of my clients are looking for. In all the drama over super skinny vs super size models nobody mentions the thousands of healthy girls that earn good money modelling for magazines, catalogues, TV commercials and online stores every single day of the week.

In fact, the whole 'size zero' vs. 'plus size' argument is a total contrivance and one that will always give journalists something to complain about and designers something to speak up against. And while I do understand the irony of using a Huff Post Blog to complain about the media focussing on the argument the point I want to make is simply that this argument is never going away.

Instead of focussing on something that is never going to change why not realise that the majority of working models in the UK are healthy, happy people who probably work out less and eat worse than most of us. They happen to be born with great figures that they don't have to work for... the lucky swines!

Is Blending in the New Black?

September 25, 2014, 4:47 am

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"To be irreplaceable, one must always be different", said Coco Chanel. But with the current vogue for 'reality dressing' being played out on the streets and down the catwalks, it seems that it's 'indifference' which is the order of the day.

Many industry critics have bemoaned the fact that following the latest round of runway shows, it's clear that next spring/summer will again be a season bereft of new ideas. Apparently, trends are few and far between as understatement and utility continue to rule the runways. But if fashion is a reflection of society today, aren't we, the customers, to blame for this blandness? Are designers simply giving us the wardrobe staples we want to wear?

Life today for many of us doesn't call for a constant stream of statement pieces in here today gone tomorrow styles. Our wardrobes are now increasingly being filled with functional, 'forever' pieces that reflect our fast moving lives. Practical and comfortable are the new buzzwords, and we are coveting clothing that can take us seamlessly from morning into night.

We're also increasingly looking to other women for our fashion inspiration. The days when designers dictated the length of our hemlines and height of our heels are now long gone. Fashion bloggers, street style stars and the selfie ('real women in real clothes') are our new points of reference.

Our 'aversion' to the avant-garde isn't new. It's an industry fact that the more commercial, i.e. wearable, 'resort' or pre-collections designers produce consistently outsell their more fashion forward main lines. And designers' taking their inspiration from 'the street' isn't a new concept either. Punk, for example, is constantly being repackaged and sold back to us in more stylised forms. So, it's no real surprise that the everyday sweatshirts and trainers we are now all sporting are being given the luxury treatment, and certainly no coincidence that the understated, and modestly priced, Mansur Gavriel bucket bag, the bag du jour among bloggers this year, was swiftly followed in the stores by more elaborate, and costly, designer versions.

But if the focus up and down the high street is now firmly on 'wearable' fashion - the tag line for GAP's new season advertising campaign is 'Dress Normal' - are we paying the price style-wise?

It seems strange that many of us are choosing to 'blend in' when the opportunity to express our own personality through what we wear has never been greater. The increase in global travel, growth of online retailing and rise in social media means that we all have access to a huge number of brands, and influences, wherever we are in the world. And while the era of the unifying trend may be over, this certainly doesn't mean the end of great fashion.

Individual brand identities are still strong. And in the absence of designer diktats we are free to buy into whichever style appeals to us at any given moment. However, while this new fashion freedom appeals to those of us who have a clear sense of our own style, it falters for those women, many of my clients and customers included, who feel rather lost without a lack of direction.

Taking the time to understand who we are and determine how we want to be seen are essential steps to carving out our particular niche in the world of fashion. And it's the clothes that give us confidence, while being comfortable to wear, that are the key to nailing our own unique 'signature' look.

While our lifestyles may now call for a more casual approach to dressing, this doesn't mean that those special pieces we all own have to remain on the sidelines. 'Saving for best' is now a much-outdated concept, and part of the fun of fashion today is incorporating something special into our everyday to create that irreplaceable point of difference, à la Madame Chanel.

Why Is Getting Measured Up for a Bra So Hard?

September 25, 2014, 8:43 am

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She's standing there, young, beautiful... just ask her. There's nothing wrong in asking, this is the place people come for such things. So, why are you nervous? You take a deep breath, she looks up and smiles, which should make it easier, but you croak a little as you say "I was just wondering if you...erm...do ... bra measuring?".

There's a pause and she slowly replies "No. We don't offer that service here", looking about as if she's locating the switch to open that hole in the ground beneath you. You've not said anything wrong, you're surrounded by beautiful little lingerie that you could have had a future with... so why do you feel... deviant?

WHY is getting measured for a bra so HARD? Hardly any shops offer it, and often lingerie shops are staffed with women whose breasts haven't moved a millimetre since they sent in their final note excusing them from PE. I'm at a stage where I need my boobs measured EVERY TIME - 43, on my second bout of extended breastfeeding after a six-year gap, with baps that go up a cup and back again one week every month - I don't so much have a bra "size" as an approximate range of co-ordinates. It would be easier to land a jump jet in my cleavage than guess if that bundle of lace will support dear Charlie and Lola. (These were the names my daughter gave to my bosom, which is awkward when I ask in public if my baby wants some Charlie).

ALL shops which sell these pieces of engineering need a qualified fitter. I don't mean a Saturday girl who thinks "tape measures" are the amount of alcohol you drink before allowing yourself to be videoed. Nothing against them, I just feel cruel showing a girl whose gorgeous boobs stick before her with a verve for the future, a bosom with a rather longer CV. I want to be measured by a woman in her 80s, whose breasts have lived the equivalent of a Ray Mears survival challenge. Who can handle a tape measure like a lasso, because she can make a dress out of a curtain and a doily. I can't even make a dress out of a dress.

Or measured by someone who adores the female form in all its lopsided glory, knowing we don't all look like a Rubens or a Botticelli, but some a Dali (which reminds me, I must buy some ant killer...). Someone who knows how to make all of us look our best. Station Gok Wan in every department store in Britain! You may think he'd be too busy, but seeing he's playing out his career advertising yoghurt that clears your bowels, I think he'd be thrilled.

And can we have bras that care for our soft pals? Walk into any underwear section and you're faced with wired, angry, solid armour- rows of them, coming towards you like a terracotta army, you feel like fleeing to the sock department screaming "They're alive! They're aliiiiiive!".

Who decided that breasts needed to be caged? Were breasts roaming free, savaging passing babies, until cornered by a torch carrying mob chanting "Muzzle it!"? My boobies are my friends, and you don't keep friends wired up in cages, unless you're Clarice Starling.

How did we get here? The softest part of your body, in need of the most protection which docs advise must not receive any trauma - "yeah, stick a wire round it, some thin, sharp metal, hang on, have this one, I'll just take my kebab off it..." What was rejected? Broken glass? Spare carpentry vices?

Maybe we need only women to make bras? Sorry to be sexist, I mean, I do know many men have breasts, but they seem to get all their support through consistent beer use.

The only time men have their undies wired up and solid is when someone's going to swing a cricket bat at them. My Bristols don't face daily attack from planks of wood, there are no flying picket fences, we are not having a hurricane, and if we were, the only clothing I want to prepare for it is a pair of red glittery shoes.

I can have people falling at my feet without wire in my bra thank you, especially if I take it out and stretch it across doorways. And if you can't bear the thought of losing your pre-shaped, solid cups, why not offer your vest to two hibernating tortoises this winter? It will look the same and you'll no longer waste the lettuce you pick out of your burger.

Of course I need some construction, a flood barrier to stop all my flesh pooling in my midriff. I've tried "soft bras" and had more support from the napkin tucked in my neck. The choice is a meccano set, or a delicate wisp of nothing... "Here's Madeleine with your soft bra, can you stand completely still whilst she blows the smoke rings at you?"

Fulfil my list of demands ASAP please. I'm a busy woman, I have less time than a Snapchat, and I really, really need a bra!

As many Snapchat users will testify.