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The Democratisation of Fashion

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Fashion was always meant to be accessible - it was just the logistics that got in the way.

Wind the clock back 10-15 years. Your typical high street only had space for a limited number of brands, in stores that only had space for a limited number of products. Marketing was limited to costly magazine ads or even more expensive TV slots. The big got bigger. No wonder every high street ended up looking the same.

If you were a new brand looking for a break, good luck to you. You were probably in for a long slog, relying on word of mouth for marketing or on catching the attention of a small number of super-powerful buyers and taste-makers.

If you were a customer looking for something different or "non-standard", then good luck to you too. When capacity is limited, basic economics means everyone tends to the middle ground. Which store would give up 20% of their space to sell maternity clothing? How were you to know there's a tiny boutique on the other side of the country selling exactly what you were looking for?

Fast forward to 2015. Digital has changed everything. Digital fashion is often touted as a victory for convenience - discover, browse and shop wherever you want, whenever you want. But the real winner is choice and access.

In the digital world there's no square footage to optimise and so no limit on the number of brands that can exist side by side or the number of styles they can offer. The dominance of the high street few is no longer. Fashion lovers everywhere can shop from over 800 brands and 75,000 products on ASOS alone - a niche brand from Australia can sit side by side with a UK high street giant and if the product is great and the price is right there's no reason they won't do just as well. And with these elastic walls there's no need for everyone to cluster around the "average" customer. Large, small, tall, short - choice is finally coming your way. Underserved customers are joining the fashion world in droves.

It's not just customers who are benefiting. Never before has it been easier to start a fashion brand. Digital channels mean that from day one you can sell to a global audience. ASOS Marketplace provides a platform for over 800 start-up fashion businesses - wherever you are in the world, however small you are, if your product is right you can sell directly to 9.5m ASOS customers. Some of our boutiques have grown to take hundreds of thousands of pounds within a couple of years and 15 have subsequently been scouted by the ASOS buyers and are now seeing sales in the millions.

If distribution is one part of the puzzle then connecting with new and existing customers is another and digital has turned this upside down too. Social channels mean that suddenly everyone can be a publisher. It's here that consumers are looking for their inspiration and entertainment and new brands can speak directly to millions of potential customers. Unlike the TV or magazine days of old, big budgets are less important than ever - big ideas are what it takes as a new generation of taste-makers are forged.

For our new team of ASOS Stylists, social is their world. They spend their days curating and creating great content to share with the fashion loving audience. This isn't about glorified ads or branded content, but supporting the next generation of creators and taste-makers to create genuine, impartial and relevant content that our twenty-something customers love. It's early days but with almost 600k followers and growing it's really exciting to see where it goes.

So times are changing and a true fashion democracy has arrived. It's never been easier for more people to get more access to more fashion or for more brands to be able to reach a wider audience. Fashion makes people feel great about themselves and it's exciting to see that we've managed to stop logistics and landlords getting in the way of that!

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.


Childhood Fashion I Wish Was Still Cool

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During a spate of nostalgia, a friend of mine posted a childhood photo on Facebook of him and his mum. It was the 80s, but the strangest thing about it was that it could easily have been mistaken for something far more recent, based on him mum's very on-trend clothes. This got me thinking about how fashion always comes round in circles - indeed, the popularity of leggings in recent years is entirely reflective of the early 90s trend (one which I vaguely remember first time round). My thoughts then turned to other clothes I wore as a child, which I sincerely hope could back soon. Five items stand out vividly in my memory...


Credit: Stephanie Sicore // young@art, Flickr

1. Roller boots
Ok, so this type of footwear is technically still around - I see kids gliding around the shops in them all the time. But I am old enough to remember when the first ones hit the shops. The soles were about three inches thick to hide the wheels in, and to actually skate you had to sit down, unfold the metal clasps on the bottom of your shoes which hid the wheel, clip them into place and off you went - seamless (almost). My boots were baby blue, presumably to match the combats. My best friend got a pair about 6 months after I did, having realised how amazing they were - only by then the technology had moved on, so simply required the push of a button and out popped the wheels. I was insanely jealous.


2. Combats
Trousers with twenty million pockets running up and down the legs were the coolest. Not only did they look super awesome, but they actually came in handy for storing all your rubbish. Of course, back in those days it was liquorice vines and Hubba Bubba - it kept me on a constant sugar high throughout the 90s. Personally, I had a pair of baby blue, three-quarters which I eventually wore several holes in. They were from Tammy. That's right. And the best thing about combats was they made you feel like a spy.

3. Skorts
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Credit: Garhol, Flickr

In what I can only assume was an attempt by my mother to break the tomboy trend, she compromised by buying me several pairs of skorts. For those of you either too young, or simply not cool enough to remember, these a skirt-shorts. On the outside, my mum could pretend I was the pretty-in-pink daughter she wanted... whilst I could still clamber up trees without giving all and sundry a flash of my underwear. I even had matching tank tops to go with them.

4. Fancy dress
We all know that kid that got a fancy dress costume one year as a Christmas or birthday present and refused to go anywhere without it. I was that kid. Mine came in the form of a gold, glittery fairy dress. With ruffles. I actually enjoyed the outfit so much that I soon ditched the wings and just sauntered round in the dress for probably the best part of a year. I felt so elegant, a feat I haven't managed torecreate since. Perhaps I should have found a replica dress to wear to my graduation.

5. Umbro sports gear
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Credit: Dwayne // Two Stout Monks, Flickr

Remember when Umbro was cool? Forget your Nike and your Adidas, this brand was far superior. As the youngest child with only two brothers to try to emulate (before I realised they weren't that cool), I was a bit of a tomboy. This include taking some of my big bros hand-me-downs - including a fluorescent orange t-shirt and shorts set, emblazoned with the Umbro diamond across its chest. I'm sure I looked rather fetching in the poke-your-eyes-out colour, matching as it did with my ginger hair. In fact, I loved it so much that I wore it for days on end. Until my mum decided enough was enough, and I never saw it again. I'm still heartbroken.

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'Flatgate': Why I Wore Flats on the Red Carpet in Cannes

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Image credit: Samantha Baines

Should women be forced to wear high heels to premieres?

If you have been following the goings on at the Cannes Film Festival this week you will have heard about 'flatgate': a group of women were turned away from the red carpet in Cannes for wearing flat shoes to the premiere of Carol - a female centric film about fighting societal norms (**irony alert**). Officials have stated that it is obligatory to wear high heels on the red carpet in Cannes: a statement which is causing much furore on social media. The hashtag #cannesheels has been trending.

I was at the Cannes Film Festival when I heard that women had been turned away from the red carpet in their flat rhinestone shoes. As a stroke of luck, I happened to have tickets for the premiere the following evening as well as my own snazzy pair of flat rhinestone shoes, so fate stepped in (in flats). I think any rule forcing women to wear high heels is pretty ridiculous - if you want to wear heels go ahead but I whilst I am happy to adhere to the formal dress code of a premiere (it is a celebration of film) I will wear whatever I feel comfortable in thank you very much. I had badly sprained my ankle before Cannes and so I had packed a plethora of fashionable, smart and yet comfy flats for my trip (you can find some beautiful flats on the high street at the moment). It was decided, I would wear my rhinestone flats to the premiere the following evening in protest.

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Photo credit: Samantha Baines. Shoe credit: Next

The following evening I managed to get on to the red carpet in my comfy rhinestone flats having smiled my way past the security guards. I took some snaps of my heel-less feet on the red carpet and posted them on Twitter. That's when it all kicked off!

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Photo credit: Today Show

Pictures of my feet have now been circulated across the internet! I have been interviewed by NBC for the Today Show, BBC News and BBC Radio and my little tweet has been featured in fashion magazines, newspapers and feminist blogs across Europe. Whilst this seems a tad crazy when all I did was wear some comfy shoes, I think it does raise an important point that in some respects the world we live in still hasn't moved with the times. Feminism is still an incredibly important and relevant movement and women shouldn't be forced to adhere to outdated rules that in this case could be physically damaging (check out the flight of stairs on the red carpet in Cannes - I wouldn't want to trip on those in heels).

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Photo and feet credit: Samantha Baines

Let's not forget that the Cannes Film Festival is about celebrating film and there are some wonderful films in competition this year which should be celebrated. However, perhaps for next year the festival organisers could look at revising their shoe policy and then we can concentrate on talking about film instead of looking at pictures of feet.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

Pregnant? Don't Conform to Pressure

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Lorraine Kelly recently praised high street fashion retailers for making better maternity clothes in the wake of the Duchess of Cambridge's pregnancies.

And with pregnant celebrities being snapped and taking their own selfies for all to see on social media, there's never been so many maternity styles to choose from.

But with this new found fashion and celebs looking so great during those nine months, is there an added pressure on pregnant woman to make sure they look tip top every time they step out the house?

You'll know how I feel about wearing your boyfriend's trackies during pregnancy and I still stand by my 'if you look good, you'll feel good,' statement.

But, like in any part of life, how far is too far?

Are we being influenced by fashions that we wouldn't normally touch as a result of feeling vulnerable (pregnancy does that) and a society that is praising certain styles just because they look good on pregnant celebrities and Kate Middleton.

Do we really want that bodycon dress, that we'd never have even looked at pre-bump because it's hot maternity fashion property thanks to Abbey Clancey, or go dotty for Kate Middleton's polka dots because the media went mad for their maternity style?

When I was six months pregnant and looking for a suitably fashionable outfit for a hen night in a bar, I realised - after a lot of tears (it was the hormones, honest) - that sometimes it's best to just stick to what's always suited me and made me feel like a princess. When I found the perfect style Kate Middleton had nothing on me.

Here's my five trends, each with pros and cons.

1. The maternity jumpsuit
I've never been a huge fan of this trend anyway - wearing this on a night out made me feel like I was dressed in a posh onesie. However, this 70s revival did seem like a good option for a bump and I've seen a good few that look great on others! Buying one loose enough - not a tent ladies - meant I didn't stand out as the big pregnant gal in the bar.

However, when trying one on, I realised that just because I had a bump, it didn't change the fact that these just didn't suit me, pregnant or not. Add in a pair of flats and I felt like I was going out in my PJs and slippers.

2. The playsuit
It's funny because although this is the shorter cousin of the jumpsuit I had never felt like I was wearing my PJs in one of these. In fact, pre-bump days these had been my staple choice for a festival. However any playsuit fan will know that it's not quick to get these off when you need the little girl's room. Being pregnant and needing to wee every 5 minutes meant I ran the risk of recreating those festival days and erm, not making it in time. In my defence there had been long loo queues and too much beer...

3. The maxi dress
One of my fave trends, I was never without a maxi dress and I'd bought quite a few during my pregnancy. Opting for a black number with some carefully chosen accessories made perfect sense for the hen soiree. However, given the blinged up nature of the bar I was attending, this just felt slightly underwhelming.

4. The trendy tee and leather look trousers
I'd always loved the oversized tee and leather look trouser trend - it made me feel young(er) in bars where the DJ wished drunken teens happy 18th birthdays. However on trying on those elasticated over bump maternity PVC trousers I felt more Kat Slater than Kim Kardashian. Oh, and they bagged at the knees.

5. The maternity little black dress
We've all got that trusty little black dress that we roll out when there's a last minute event. It's a staple part of any gal's wardrobe. And there's huge amount to choose from in the maternity fashion world from the adventurous bodycon, which really shows off your bump (there wouldn't have been any confusion as to whether I was pregnant whilst wearing this), to lovely loose chiffon numbers.

And it was the latter that I chose for the hen. It skimmed my bump nicely and in the darkness of the bar didn't make me stand out as the 'pregnant woman' who had to be avoided on the dance floor in case, a) My waters broke, b) They accidentally bumped me.

So while there are a huge range of trends in today's maternity fashion market, just like any mainstream style there are just some things that don't suit us no matter how good (or bad) they look on a celeb (sheer bodycon dresses Rita Ora style, need I say more?).

So instead of feeling pressure to conform to celebrity trends embrace your bump in your own true style.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

Six Rose Gold Watches for Men

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Rose gold has slowly crept into men's fashion over the last few years and now has become a fully fledged part of a Dapper Chapper's look.

Although the likes of Patek Phillipe, Nixon and Michael Kors have been presenting rose gold pieces for years, popularity has increased with the dapper gent after the likes of Bartmans Siegel, Burberry, Gieves and Hawkes and Hackett included these statement pieces in their SS14 shows.

Since then popularity in rose gold accessories and timepieces has continued to grow reflecting the constant need for diversity and evolution in men's fashion.

I've taken a look at six timepieces which uses rose gold in the bracelet, dial or bezel & I'd be keen to know which one you would go by picking your favourite leaving a comment at the end:

1. RAYMOND WEIL MEN'S FREELANCER AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH WATCH

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Full of inspiration, RAYMOND WEIL reinterprets its classics and unveils a completely new variation of its best-selling chronograph, the freelancer Steel & Rose Gold Class. Classical and elegant, its 42mm steel case, mounted on brown leather, stands out through the rose gold notes punctuating its dial.

Price: £2,225.00

2. GUCCI UNISEX I-ALARM CHRONOGRAPH WATCH

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Gucci is defiantly a brand that appreciates the combination of black and rose colours and recognises the appeal of rose gold.

Price: £820

3. DREYFUSS & CO MEN'S 1890 SKELETON AUTOMATIC WATCH

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This striking men's Dreyfuss & Co. 1890 Skeleton Automatic is made with a PVD rose gold plated case featuring a full skeleton dial and rose gold chapter ring. It has a Swiss automatic movement, sapphire crystal and fully waterproof to the Seafarer standard.

Price: £695

4. TISSOT MEN'S LE LOCLE AUTOMATIC WATCH

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Le Locle as well as being the name of Tissot's home and heritage, nestled in the Swiss Jura Mountains, it is the name of a hugely popular automatic watch family. The models display exquisite elegance with details such as Roman numerals and a traditional Le Locle signature which complete the picture of classical chic.

Price: £595

5. HUGO BOSS MEN'S CHRONOGRAPH WATCH

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For a true look of sophistication, this men's Hugo Boss Chronograph watch is made from polished stainless steel with PVD rose gold plating. The dark brown dial is the highlight with PVD rose gold plated hour markers and hands. It is fitted with an analogue chronograph quartz movement against the croc effect leather strap, this is a stunning gents timepiece that's water resistant to 50 metres. While you wouldn't want to go diving and ruin the leather strap, it will definitely hold up to British summer storms.

Price: £329

6. KENNETT MEN'S SAVRO CHRONOGRAPH WATCH

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Simplistic elegance with a classical design for when you need a smart clean look. The watch case is constructed of 316 stainless steel with a rose gold ion plating. The dial is round with a fixed chapter ring. The numerals are Roman with a black gloss finish as are the Alpha styled hour and minute hands which are complimented by the blue steel Chronograph seconds baton styled hand.

Price: £260

All models are available at the Watch Shop

So Dapper Chappers, I'd like to know do you agree rose gold works for gents or do you think it's better left with the girls?

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

Summer Ready: Tips on Looking Bikini Fabulous After 50

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I was 49 when we moved to LA. Long gone were the years when I might have had the confidence to carve down the boardwalk on roller blades in a bikini. Nevertheless, I had to reach some kind of peace with my body because I certainly wasn't going to avoid the ocean or the pool.

As a result I have mastered the art of the strategic cover-up and perfected the most flattering angle to lie on a sun bed. I'm expert at hanging onto a towel before plunging into the water and grabbing it fast getting out. I excel at camouflage, am a mistress of the art of illusion and how to make myself feel confident and beach ready.

Gravity gets us all eventually but when you live in a warm climate you relax a little more because you're seeing real people rather than photo shopped magazine images. Even in California not everyone looks like Miranda Kerr, which is hugely consoling.

1. Think Layers. After a certain age, buying a bikini is about as much fun as the bikini wax you'll need before you can wear it. You're in the shop, you know the colours you like and you grab a few options. You struggle into something that eventually feels like it fits and then in the harsh glare of the fitting room lights you see a woman who cannot possibly be you. Help is at hand - this is the very reason cover-ups were invented. Have shirt- dress styles on hand for full coverage and sarongs for wrapping around your waist. Get oversized T- shirts and linen drawstring pants. You need layers that you peel off and put back on depending on how you're feeling.

2. Swimsuit or two-piece? Surely it's not so much about what you wear as how you wear it - even though my middle is no longer quite in the middle, I still look better with the lines broken up in a bikini. Avoid colours and patterns you wouldn't ordinarily wear. Now is not the moment to channel your inner vixen with leopard print and avoid polka dots unless they're subtle or you're Lulu Guinness. Itsy -witsy -teeny- weeny is a no- no unless you're going to Brazil...

3. Clothes you already have in your wardrobe are surprisingly versatile. Many years ago I bought a skirt from Anthropologie that used to be dressy and now looks great with a t -shirt on the beach. White linen is timeless and versatile so recycle your tops and pants and give them one last outing.

4. The one thing that age does not wither is your ability to look groomed. Pedicures and manicures are your secret weapon - don't neglect them. Equally do not underestimate the power of accessories as this is all about feeling good and complimenting your swimwear. Have a lovely tote bag for your equally lovely sunglasses, a flattering sun hat and pretty sandals. It also goes without saying that you need a good sun cream - burnt is not the new brown.

5. The principles for dressing for the pool or the beach are the same as for anywhere. Stick to what works for you. Remember that you will only be wearing swimwear because the sun is shining and you are on vacation. You are there to enjoy yourself. If all else fails order a Mojito or a Margarita - you will feel so much better about everything.

Read more about Thérèse's adventures at www.thereseblogs.com and pick up her latest novel 'Letter from Paris', published by The Story Plant and available from Amazon $11.71, as well as Kindle.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

Blog #2

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Hello again!

As I mentioned in my last message, I rushed off to London from California on April 28, in order to arrive in time at the "lotsofcharity Remarkable Dinner" on Wednesday April 29.

This charity was founded by Alistair Morrison.. .and this was quite an interesting party.

Among the many guests were Twiggy, Jeremy Irons, and Dame Kelly Holmes (gold medal Olympian), to name a few.

The concept was created by the iconic photographer Alistair Morrison, to raise funds for important causes by recreating his "Great Briton Portraits".

Photographs taken that evening will be sold to generate support for charities; for example. I serve as the Breast Cancer Campaign's London Ambassador.

The conversation and food were delicious, and there were interesting reunions: Pierce Brosnan meeting up with Diamonds Are Forever songstress Dame Shirley Bassey, was rather entertaining.

Here are some photos I hope you shall find fun, including selfies of Rankin (another extraordinary photographer) and me.

Other pictures include me with 007 aka Pierce Brosnan, Dame Shirley Bassey trying on my bracelet, and Dame Kelly Holmes.

At the moment I am back in California, designing my newest collection, Skype-ing with my London based team daily, and planning a celebration of my being "Damed" with my American friends; the party will also be celebrating the 94th birthday of my beloved Salah Hassanein.

So its bye for now xxxxx


zandra rankin



zandra



zandra bassey

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The Five Basic Rules of Being a Woman

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Girls these days would be forgiven for being confused on what to do to qualify their existence. Luckily the 21st Century manual on "How to Become a Woman" is regularly updated by the honorary guardians of us womenfolk; so these five simple rules will help you up-and-comers breeze through life without a hitch.

1. Wear heels. ALWAYS wear heels no matter how uncomfortable. Beauty knows no pain. It has been scientifically proven that the arch of the female foot when dressed in a pump or stiletto is directly proportional to her womanhood. Flats are an obscene abomination to femininity. Did you know that Christian Louboutin and Nicholas Kirkwood have a secret ballot where they vote on who will be barred from the female union? This is known as the "Cannes Law", circ May 2015.

2. Allow society to dictate your insecurities, especially when it comes to your body. If you come to accept any of your "imperfections" as a unique aspect of your character make-up, this is wrong. Just, so wrong. Hang your head in shame and stare at those Birkenstocks you're probably wearing. Everyone knows you need permission to be happy with who you are and the level of confidence you exude. This is known as the "Contour with Kylie Law", circ March 2015.

3. Always ask for permission for the choices you make for your own body. It's particularly important that approval is sought from members of the opposite sex. It's an honor to relinquish all control of your physicality. And who doesn't want a man governing her gonad? This is known as the "Not too Bright Law", circ May 2015.

4. Categorize. Categorize. Categorize. We label our clothes, our hairstyles, even our body shape so marginalization is just a natural progression of this. Put down the books and form your identity through the perspective of others. Michelle Obama did not follow this rule when she campaigned alongside her husband in the Presidency race and look at the scrutiny she received going against the rules of the manual. This is madness! This is Sparta! Introducing the "Stepford Wives Law", circ April 2008

5. Limit yourself to the ceiling; don't aim for the sky particularly when it comes to your career. You are irrelevant in many industries. There are so few women represented in advertising, film, technology and this is a great thing. This gives you more time to expand your list of insecurities, buy more patent heels and spend quality time liaising with your male consult on what to do with your vagina. P.S Life ends at 35 years old and your beauty (as well as your intellect) immediately expires; this is known as the "Rebel without a Valid Cause Law", circ May 2015.

So remember ladies, follow these simple rules or society will revoke your female license, you won't be able to practice it and you'll be stuck in gender limbo for the rest of your life. Gotta love being a woman of the 21st Century.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.


A Few Words About Luxury

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I was recently asked to work on brand positioning for a fashion label. As often happens, a highly skilled product manufacturer has decided to capitalise on three generations worth of experience and establish a consumer-facing brand of their own within the highly popular segment of "affordable luxury". The discussion that ensued prompted me to write this note, partly - to summarise my thoughts on why the term "affordable luxury" is an oxymoron crafted by people with a profound lack of understanding as to what "luxury" really means.

I will try to stick to bullet-points, as this format is not suited to a novel. Products (and services) come in four categories: basic, mass, premium and luxury. One can go into finer divisions by adding "plus" or "minus" at the end of those, but I wouldn't want to get lost in price-point arguments.

Basic
Distinctive traits
  • As the name suggests, satisfy the most basic needs at best value and often (not always) the lowest price point.

  • Not just functional, but utilitarian - as practical as possible.


Selling points
  • Stressing value, as nothing else matters much - "It is as good as the more expensive stuff, but cheaper".


Examples: Tesco basic beans, unbranded denim

Mass
Distinctive traits
  • "High street" brands that occupy the key retail spaces of large cities.

  • Applied to fashion, do more than just cover our bodies - they reflect our preferences as most markets offer plenty of substitutes in any category.

  • As this segment covers the largest chunk of any market, it stretches from products an average consumer can afford to purchase impulsively (e.g. Uniqlo denim) to ones that require consideration and, possibly, some saving (e.g. Levi's denim).


Selling points
  • As these brands have to be preferred in what usually is a highly competitive market, they need to offer better product, service or level of cool.

  • In addition to that, these brands need to offer something unique, e.g. a philosophy that resonates with the target audience (e.g. Zara's "catwalk fashion for everyone").


Examples: H&M, Levi's

Premium
Distinctive traits
  • Birthplace of most original designs that later turn into fashion trends for the masses.

  • Offer superior quality or elevate the consumer's social status.

  • An average consumer needs to save for a while to be able to afford anything from this category; some products can be out of reach for life.


Selling points
  • These brands offer more than just products, but a distinctive lifestyle.

  • Successful premium brands have a unique character - a strongly held opinion or a powerful story to tell.


Examples: Diesel, Dolce & Gabbana

Luxury
Distinctive traits
  • Luxury products offer unique quality that makes the product last for generations.

  • Luxury products aren't fashionable, because they are not bought for a season.

  • Luxury products exist in limited supply and therefore are never discounted.

  • Luxury products are not just unaffordable to an average consumer, but in many cases - unattainable.

  • Luxury products are heritage pieces, reflecting more than affluence, but tradition.


Selling points
  • One doesn't really promote luxury, but skilfully lets the world know it exists and waits for likeminded individuals to come to you.

  • As true luxury is timeless, its vision looks either back or forth - talking either of brand's heritage (e.g. Hermes) or its unique vision for the future (e.g. Tesla).


Examples: Loro Piana, Hermes Crocodile Birkin in black

What does everything above boil down to?
  • Luxury is timeless and therefore not fashionable.

  • Luxury is never for the masses and not just because it is unaffordable.

  • Not everything that is very expensive is also a luxury product - price will only get you as far as premium (an expensive watch may cost over100,000, but still be characterised as "premium plus" or "supremium").

  • Luxury is a state of mind fundamentally contrary to that of value-for-money.


In short, if one speaks of value and appeals to practicality - one travels to a dimension where luxury doesn't and couldn't possibly exist.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

When Is a Model Not a Model?

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As the owner of a womenswear brand, I get to decide who wears our clothes in our advertising campaigns.

It's a fortunate yet responsible position to be in. Fortunate, because I get to determine exactly how the brand is presented. Responsible, because I feel the weight of honesty to every customer who looks at the images we publish.

Body image has become an issue of growing concern. Around 10million women in the UK say they 'feel depressed' about the way they look. This is reportedly fuelled by unrepresentative and ubiquitous images of perfectly airbrushed women with bodies that are unattainable for most.

In recent weeks the press has been awash with articles about skinny models. In early April MPs in France's Lower House approved a law to ban the use of models deemed to be excessively thin. As part of this, model agencies that break this law could face fines of up to €75,000 and a six-month jail term. Approval by the Senate is now needed to bring it into force.

The MP who proposed the bill had previously stated that the thinness threshold be set at a BMI of 18. A healthy BMI is considered to be between 18.5 and 24.9.

This law follows similar such actions in Spain which has regulations barring fashion show models with a BMI below 18.5. Italy insists on medical certificates and also imposes an age requirement of at least 16. Israel similarly imposes a BMI limit along with a requirement to label media photos that have been re-touched. There is no such BMI limit in the UK or the US.

The concern is that ultra-thin models engender and compound body image concerns and this in turn is leading to eating disorders. In the UK around 725,000 people are affected by eating disorders of which almost 90% are girls and women. Related hospital admissions are rising at around 7% per year.

These are worrying statistics and only serve to reinforce the obligation I feel to choose models that won't make my customers feel bad about themselves.

How customers feel about themselves after looking at advertisements has been a topic of fierce debate following the bikini-wearing model in the 'Are you beach body ready?' campaign. Thousands have signed an online petition, posters have been defaced and a protest was organised for 2 May in Hyde Park.

There are a lot of women are clearly unhappy with how some images may make them feel. They are asking for proper representation.

Deciding on the choice of models for my brand is not a decision I have ever wanted to take lightly. But where to start?

What I knew was that I didn't want young girls Photoshopped to within an inch of their lives with expressions that made them look dead behind the eyes.

But first I had to understand the world of modelling. Fortunately my e-commerce manager had previously worked as a model agent at Storm. He inducted into a new world, one in which the level of scrutiny and appraisal seems relentless. It made me wonder now why anyone would even want to be a model.

He taught me all about portfolios (or books) and castings. When we eventually did call in some models I half expected to see a line of goddesses queued up outside the door. Instead what I saw pretty, but not gorgeous girls (and I stress that they were girls and not women - they were teenagers) who were tall but not nearly as striking as their photographs had suggested.

When we measured them it also became apparent that their height made their dimensions appear narrower. Clearly Photoshop plus height equals lots of potential and not a little hoodwinking. There are very few women blessed with the genes of Christy Turlington.

But the dawning of realisations wasn't going to solve my problem. I still needed a model and one that would properly marry aspiration with honesty.

My first choice was to have the clothes take centre stage. More bluntly we wouldn't show faces. The reason for this was not only because I didn't think these teenagers actually represented our customer but also because what they presented at a shoot was not a person but rather a persona. They 'switched off'. It was as though the individual disappeared and a 'model' emerged. Poses were performed as though by automatons, expressions were blank. It was even more dispiriting to see them deny food bar a few salad leaves. One even became delirious towards the end of the day.

But really the answer was obvious. We would choose real women. And not only would they be non-models but, if we were to show their faces, then we would tell their stories and celebrate their achievements. No more anonymous mannequins.

Our 'faces' come from a range of backgrounds - one is a freelance PR, one is a clown, one is a speech therapist and actress, two are dancers (one ballet, one krump).

They range in size from 8 to 12 but we don't scrunitinise their bodies because we know they look good. And that is why we don't transform them with endless hours of re-touching.

But it is the diversity of their backgrounds that gives them such distinct appeal. It is also heartwarming to see genuine friendships developing among these wonderful women.

When I look at their photos or videos I have no doubt that what I have found is a faithful and sincere representation of the aesthetic and spirit of our brand.

Remarkably though this seems to have thrown people. Often I am asked 'Are they actually models?' - a question mostly posed by women and which always seems to carry a certain amount of disapproval.

It is ironic that some think they have been duped by not being shown 'real' models. But it doesn't worry me. Most people don't like change and acceptance will take time.

What does worry me though is the amount of food (or rather chocolates, crisps, nuts and sandwiches) I have to buy for shoots. Kate Moss famously said that "nothing tastes as good as skinny feels." I would urge her to watch this and then come back to me with her opinion.

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Japanese & Distressed Denim: Latest Look For Summer 2015

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Denim may be the only fabric that can have a run all season without losing its essential characteristics, tough, durable and at times quite heavy. I have picked 2 brands that have chosen to run with the denim look as part of their SS15 releases, both prove denim that is back for summer 2015!



TOPMAN

TOPMAN have released their latest offering and are shouting out denim is back this summer!
Their new Japanese denim LTD range built from Kurabo Mills in Japan comes with three styles of Japanese selvedge.

Kurabo Mill, founded 110 years ago, is one of the oldest mills in the Far East and known for using natural indigo dyes that create a resilient denim with unique fading pattern.
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The range includes two pairs of jeans and a denim jacket, jeans are cut to a slim fit and come in vintage worn or raw finish.
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The pieces are created with longevity and quality in mind, the longer you wear them the better it will look on the individual.



CHEF LDN



CHEF LDN, the new off shoot brand of DXPECHEF, are going with part denim with their latest ZION SS15 contemporary line. The line is expected to be out in early June with many pieces available in limited numbers.
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Zion bleached washed patterns adorn their denim look jackets



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Stone washed denim jacket and jeans with a distressed look display the durability of the outfit.
The soft pastel colour palette allows for a summer season look.



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Detachable sleeves and collar that have been specially hand distressed also operate with a Silver ball & chain zip fastener. Impeccable detail.



TOPMAN Japanese Selvedge range available from topman.com

CHEF LDN Zion SS15 available from chefldn.com

Pic credit: twitter.com/Dopechef | James Harvey

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'Boyfriend Material': What to Wear on a First Date

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Let's face it a first date is difficult enough for most men without the added worry of what to wear. With this simple advise you can rest assured your style will send the right message when making that all important first impression.

We are seemingly spoiled for choice when it comes to dating in the digital age, so to help you stand out from the crowd, I will show you how your appearance alone can speak volumes before you even utter the first "hello."

We all gravitate towards someone who is confident. The pressure to appear confident on a first date can get the better of even the most self-assured man. The answer to this problem is colour. It's so simple but wearing a little bit of colour goes a long way.

Men tend to shy away from colour because mainstream fashion has reserved the pleasure of colour for women's attire. Men were given almost no choice. Luckily today all that has changed.

You've heard the phrase 'real men wear pink' - well I swear by it - and so should you. Be it pink, green, red , or purple a display of colour on a man can act just like the display of brightly coloured plumage on a peacock trying to attract a mate. Trust me - it works!

I'm going to show you that a baby blue suit is your perfect match (even if your date turns out not to be).

This baby blue linen suit from Moss Bros. is a casual yet smart suit and the linen is breathable and light-weight- perfect for a hot summer date. I suggest wearing the whole suit if you're coming straight from work to meet your date during the week to give you a sharp professional look.

Pairing it with a crisp granddad white shirt from T.M Lewin, leaving the first button opened, gives the look a laid back vibe. You can choose to wear a nice pair of jeans (like these rolled up Mid Wash Skinny Denim from Next) or shorts should you be meeting your date on the weekend for a more casual outing. Slipping off the jacket and rolling up the sleeves of your shirt is for when the pressures off and your having fun. Loosening up a polished look is key to showing you can be relaxed as well as confident.



Mixing and matching then just becomes a matter of changing your shirt and shoes! Styling the suit with another short sleeve granddad collar navy shirt from FF Clothing gives you a lot of bang for your buck at £8 - paired with Woven Leather Closed Toe Sandal from Dune London you are killing the casual look.



Top tip: Loafers show off the ankle, a part of the body very much overlooked on a man, but one which is significantly attractive if displayed.

That's it! Dress it up with a bow tie or dress it down with jeans; a coloured suit is all you need this summer to look hot and stay cool.

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Can Fast Fashion Be Sustainable?

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The world of fashion is increasingly under the environmental spotlight as the impact of the industry becomes apparent from pesticides in cotton through to working conditions in Bangladesh. Top of the hit list are fast fashion chains with campaigns questioning whether the pile it high sell it cheap model can be environmental sustainable.

To find out more I headed to Stockholm to interview the leader of H&M Karl-Johan Persson. We embarked on a frank debate with no PR person on-hand to fend off awkward questions. I wasn't expecting this openness.

Fast fashion companies can respond to ethical questions by hiding in the pack or by engaging in debate knowing there will be weaknesses which can be exposed. H&M is firmly in this second category - why? One reason is the heritage of the company which was founded by Karl-Johan Persson's grandfather. He believes this family connection means that short-term financial reasons are not the sole driver of decision-making as there is a deep interest in how healthy the company will be for future generations.

Focus on the longer term was a recurring theme. For instance, H&M is the world's largest purchaser of organic cotton which it claims is a costly choice driven by environmental considerations not financial benefit.

The company has a long-term commitment to working in Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia. How had they reacted to the Rana Plaza disaster that killed 1,129 people? Karl-Johan Persson pointed out that H&M was not present at this factory and had a strong track record of working on fire and building safety. The disaster was tragic but has forced greater collaboration between fashion companies, improved inspection regimes and secured more investment. This included a new safety accord which H&M was one of the first companies to sign.

Exploration of the supply chain revealed huge complexity highlighting the dangers of black and white analysis. Factories in developing countries supply a range of companies from high-end brands through to mass market. Shop price tags may vary but working conditions under which they are produced are the same. It is not uncommon for one factory to be supplying up to 20 brands. Creating change requires collaboration: not easy when some brands would rather not highlight their supply chain - H&M has an open supplier list. I feel certain that most UK consumers are unaware of this and assume garment workers making high-priced top brand clothing have different working conditions to their fast fashion equivalents.

Complexity makes it difficult to get a clear grasp of whether H&M is a leader so I asked Karl-Johan Persson to succinctly tell his customers why his claims are believable. He highlighted meetings with the Prime Ministers of Cambodia and Bangladesh pushing for increased wages which directly affects costs. He feels that working at this national level is essential as it can be counter-productive to just focus on the pay of garment factory workers. He believes that carrying out unilateral pay rises for selected employees driven by western consumer campaigns can do more damage than good leading to corruption and resentment. Instead the country's overall pay structure must be respected.

I sensed a growing frustration that H&M was being lumped together as a fast fashion baddie when Karl-Johan Persson clearly feels they are ahead of the pack in certain areas. Why was this? He accepted that H&M has much to do and needs to be better at telling their story. However he feels more can be done for customers to make informed decisions. He called for governments to make sustainability reporting mandatory for companies above a certain size. He wants customers to be able to look at a hand tag on a garment and immediately see the social and environmental impact of a product and H&M is working towards this through the Higg Index initiative. The predominant message was facts rather than emotion is needed in the debate.

Finally our conversation shifted to the vexed question of consumption. Karl-Johan Persson has strong views. For him economic growth is essential to take people out of poverty. He referenced a World Bank report stating that growth in Bangladesh could be as high as eight percent per year for the next ten years with the creation of one million new jobs. The report highlighted that continued rapid growth in the textile industry is a prerequisite if this forecast is to become reality.

I challenged whether this growth could ever be sustainable. He replied that H&M wants to grow but with 100% of their energy from renewable resources and with new technologies that create a close loop economy which don't create environmental harm.

The challenge for H&M is that these ambitions have led to consumers placing less value on the clothes they buy, leading to more waste. The frenzied madness of Black Friday perfectly captures this consumerism in action. It will be intriguing to see how H&M squares this circle. How adventurous will they become in actively engaging customers in their sustainability campaigns? Can they persuade people to truly value the cheap clothes they buy extending their life and ensuring they are recycled at end of use.

The openness of Karl-Johan Persson and his willingness to debate the wider impact of the company is impressive. The heritage of the company places it in a strong position to embed sustainability into its strategy and big steps have already been taken in certain areas. However there has to be a question whether the overall business model can be sustainable. If it can, H&M will have to be even bolder and drag a large number of laggard fast fashion companies with them.

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Calling On All Fashion Houses to Pay Interns

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I want to make a call to all fashion houses to pay their interns.

I run a start-up fashion label in South London, financed with my own money. An army of unpaid interns would make my life that much easier and would keep my costs that much lower. But I won't do it. Every one of my staff is paid. It is simply the right thing to do.

According to HMRC an internship is a form of work placement or work experience usually undertaken by university or school students. The legal status attached to an internship depends on whether the intern qualifies as a worker, volunteer or employee.

An intern denoted to all intents and purposes as a volunteer has no right to a minimum wage or other employee rights such as sick pay, holiday, etc. They may receive travel and subsistence expenses but only proper classification as a worker or employee would confer full employment rights.

In the fashion industry, graduate internships are a necessary pre-requisite to full-time employment. Graduates need to demonstrate practical and technical proficiency and working as an intern is often the only means to do this.

The problem they face is that most employers do not pay their graduate interns.

Most of my staff is made up of relatively recent graduates. Almost all have undertaken post university unpaid internships. Some have even worked without travel or subsistence expenses which implies they have effectively paid for the privilege of working for free.

I have been told of fashion houses that basically run on the labour of free interns.

Brands may argue that they are simply taking advantage of a convenient loophole or just doing what everyone else does. I would beg to differ.

To volunteer, and therefore qualify as an unpaid intern, the individual can't be held to conditions that would normally constitute a contract of employment, e.g. the requirement to work a set number of hours per week. However, fixed hours and day is what is usually expected of them. And yet still they are not awarded either employee status or any associated legal rights.

Aside from the fact that employers seem to be walking a rather precarious legal tightrope not paying people who work for you is just plain wrong.

Aside from any morality issue, the main problem with this is that fashion interns with limited financial means often have to walk away from their industry of choice, from the profession they have invested years of their lives learning and fine-tuning.

Access to debt will be almost impossible for practically all unemployed graduates, especially those already bearing the burden of student loans. Without wealthy and generous parents or patrons, which is the purview only of the privileged few, graduates would have no option but to look outside their chosen profession for paid work.

Fashion-related and other creative degrees are also not so easily transferable, certainly not in the same way as the more conventional arts or science subjects.

This leaves fashion graduates with even less choice.

And those graduates who do choose to take up an unpaid role are often one of many within a firm. I have heard of brands with nine unpaid interns per employee.

Interns need proper experience to build their CVs. They need to be developed. Having an overabundance of interns can often lead to in-fighting, simply because they're all looking to bag the best experience. And discord always leads to lower productivity.

Not paying interns engenders the creation of an elitist industry and risks the creation of discordant - and therefore less productive - teams. It can also result in the loss of talent.

The late Alexander McQueen is hailed as one of the UK's greatest ever fashion designers, renowned the world over. He was brought up in a council house in east London and started off as a paid apprentice.

It would be a travesty for a new mastery such as his to be lost to us all.

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My Ostomy Bag Won't Limit My Underwear Choices!

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I was out shopping the other day whilst my boyfriend was at work, just looking for clothes and makeup really. I'd spent two hours so far looking through shop after shop, trying on various different pieces of clothing and having absolutely no luck with anything. Everything was either too tight, too loose or just didn't look right. Frustrated, I went for coffee and some breakfast to call my friend to see when he was coming to meet me. He'd said he'd be another hour. I sighed, and wondered what on earth I was going to do until he got here (an hour normally meant two in his case).

I thought about what else I could possibly attempt to shop for without getting annoyed. I'd already bought new makeup and am not really a jewelery person. I'd got a new notebook and already bought all My Chemical Romance's old albums (yes I was one of THOSE kids). And then it hit me... underwear! I have never, ever, EVER shopped for underwear. Not once. Unless you count those times your mum buys you them as a present because she realises you've been wearing the same sets for the past five years? (All clean of course!!)

I didn't really know how to go about this. And to be honest, I doubted I'd find anything I felt comfortable with. I anxiously wondered around shop after shop noticing that nothing had been designed for people with an ostomy. I knew this would be the case, but there was still a little bit of hope I'd find something. I had seen one underwear set in New Look, it was so pretty! But I was certain it wouldn't look right. I was trailing around for something high waisted. I planned to wear something for my boyfriend when he got home from work. I wanted to look nice. But how can I pull off anything "sexy" with an ostomy?

It was getting late and shops were starting to close down, and I still hadn't found anything. I felt like I wanted to cry. Everything was tiny and designed for those with nice tummy's they wanted to show off.

I left the shop and was about to head off to wait for my friend before I had a thought. A thought that changed the rest of that day.

"You write a blog on body confidence and embracing your body. You write out to thousands of people and tell them to love yourself. What a hypocrite you would be to shame your body over a pair of underwear that YOU feel isn't designed for you. Who says it's not? Who says you haven't got a nice tummy? You? Do you think those scars that saved your life deserve to be shamed and hidden away? No. Now get your arse into gear and feel good about yourself".

And with that one thought, I headed over to New Look and picked up the pretty bra I'd first seen. And underwear, too of course!

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I'm really angry at myself for putting myself down that day, and letting myself feel so negatively towards my body. But I'm so grateful I was able to step out of that so quickly. I felt really positive for the rest of the day, and waited for my boyfriend to finish work - in my new underwear (makeup done and everything)! And it's safe to say he absolutely loved it. (I won't go into detail - don't worry). But there, it just goes to show that you never know until you try. From now on I won't let personal negativity limit my choices. I will overcome every hurdle that lays be for me and remember that if you don't do it, you won't overcome it. And no, I'm not trying to give a Shia LaBeouf 'Nike' inspirational speech here...

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We Know How Lucky We Are - That's Why We Believe Every Young Person Deserves a Chance to Succeed

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We never imagined when we were younger that our passion for makeup and creativity would result in us actually being able to forge a career and allow us to run our own business.

In my teens I developed severe anxiety issues. I worried constantly about everything, from thinking I'd upset someone with a throwaway comment or thinking I wasn't good enough at school. I found it hard to communicate these thoughts with people, so these worries would get bottled up until it all became too much and I'd have a teary breakdown and think I couldn't cope with anything. It was a vicious cycle.

This is something that I still struggle with today and have to work very hard in order to manage my anxiety issues. Over the years I have managed to pinpoint the triggers and try to control it the best way I can. I avoid being in confined, busy spaces and I make sure I regularly go for walks and do exercise, as this clears my mind and rejuvenates my mental attitude.

Nic on the other hand had a tricky few years at school. She struggled with the work but didn't realise at the time that she had dyslexia. It's something that is ongoing for Nic and there are times she is criticised for a small spelling mistake but she continues to work hard to improve her spelling.

We've both come to realise that these qualities don't have to define us. They're part of who we are and they certainly aren't weaknesses.

We were incredibly lucky growing up as we had the most supportive family and always knew we could turn to someone in times of need. It was family who encouraged us to fulfil our dreams and aim for a career that would make us happy. We couldn't have wished for a more amazing and inspiring mother.

Nic and I have both been interested in beauty products from a young age. Our mum loved fashion and we used to watch in awe as she experimented with differed looks, hairstyles and products. As soon as we were old enough to be given pocket money, we would instantly spend it on makeup products. I remember buying a pale blue eye shadow once. I loved it. I used to put it on over my whole eyelid and all the way up to the eyebrow! I thought it looked brilliant at the time!

Our mum saw the passion we had for the beauty industry and supported the pair of us in making a career out of it. Our Aunty was also a makeup artist and she also encouraged us and allowed us to shadow her.

At 16 we left school and studied a two-year media make up course in Kings Lynn, Norfolk. We learnt so much from our two years of studying, but we learnt even more in our first jobs. Working gives you a true sense of responsibility but it also gives you an enormous sense of pride and achievement.

Pixiwoo came about in a very roundabout way. A friend of mine asked if I could explain how to get the smoky-eye look. I've always found it tricky to write down makeup instructions, so I decided to film it and I posted it to YouTube for my friend to see. I didn't even consider for one minute that anyone else would watch it so couldn't believe it when people started commenting and sending in requests for other looks. Not long after, Nic joined me and that's when it all started!

The name Pixiwoo was a bit of a fluke. Years ago, as a teenager, my friends and I created silly nicknames for each other. We each created our first email address using these nicknames and mine was Pixiwoo. When I posted my first YouTube video, the username was automated from my email address, so it was uploaded from 'Pixiwoo'. And it stuck!

It sounds as though all of this fell into place quite easily but this couldn't be further from the truth. For the first few years we didn't make a penny! We spend our days and nights, working our socks off to make sure the business is going in the right direction but it takes a lot of hard work, dedication and patience.

We know how lucky we are. Especially when we know how many young people are out there, unemployed, reeling from the aftermath of the recession. Although the climate has picked up, there are hundreds of thousands of young people out there who left school during the recession, entered unemployment and are now competing with today's school-leavers and graduates for vacancies.

This is why we are supporting youth charity The Prince's Trust. They believe every young person deserves a chance to succeed.

We know that there are too many young people out there who are lacking in self-belief. Some of these young people have no-one to turn to and are left feeling hopeless and desperate. This can have a devastating effect on a young person's life and we need to help now before it is too late.

Having confidence in yourself is key. We've turned down opportunities with huge brands because we felt that their aims and values didn't align with our own. It's hard to stand up to people sometimes, but we've come to realise that you have to follow your heart and do what you truly believe in.

We're taking part The Prince's Trust #sub60 campaign, which sees celebrities and business experts sharing their life and job advice in just 60 seconds.

We're demonstrating a simple makeup look which will look professional in job interviews (because that's what we're good at) and on The Prince's Trust #sub60 playlist you'll find supportive videos to help you whatever stage you are at in the getting-a-job journey - from confidence-boosting tips to writing your first CV.

With the right support and a little bit of self-belief, it is possible to achieve your dreams. We are living proof of that. So let's all make sure the next generation has as good a chance as we did.

Pixiwoo are supporting The Prince's Trust #sub60 campaign. Find more useful advice at youtube.com/princestrust and more about The Prince's Trust at princes-trust.org.uk

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Youth Tribes Are Still Alive - Even Though They're Mostly Retro

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I had a a bit of a cultural epiphany the other day. After a wonderful long weekend holiday on the Kent coast, I saw recently reformed Nineties rock band Babes in Toyland at the Shepherd's Bush Empire.

For those unfamiliar with Babes In Toyland, frontwoman Kat Bjelland and her cohorts inspired Courtney Love to become a rock star and were pivotal not just to the grunge scene, but the riot grrrl movement and arguably, the last wave of feminism.

In a packed Shepherds Bush Empire grungers, rockers, riot grrrls, indie kids and even a heavily pregnant office girl dressed in black were going crazy to Babes tunes like a 'Bruise Violet'.

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The reformed Babes in Toyland


Everyone seemed united with a shared love - I couldn't put my finger on it, but there was a certain *look* about everyone there too. The band were powerful, visceral, funny, entertaining and possibly tighter musically than they were first time around. Kat was a snarling, passionate embodiment of rock, her body a slave to her involuntary dance moves, so strongly did she allow the power of music to possess her.

It was 1991 all over again. I was transported back to when I had spiked hair, wore charity shop dresses coupled with brothel creepers, and listened to Babes while studying feminist film theory as part of my degree at the University of East Anglia in Norwich. But as well as nostalgia, I felt the feminist fire in my belly and comradeship with a tribe all over again, something I hadn't felt in years.

Frankly, Babes and in particular crazy-haired, bovver-boot wearing, body spasming Kat, are required viewing for today's lily-livered, fourth-wave, no-platforming feminists. She is the embodiment of not giving a shit.

But it made me think - what kind of young feminist role models do we have in music now? Where are the new subculture tribes in the 21st Century?

Where are the youngsters picking up a guitar and screaming songs about the patriarchy in such a compelling way? Why are there not more young people dressing crazy and going mad for their particular brand of music? And outside of feminism, what new subcultures are there for young people to join, to believe in and celebrate?

Is the seeming lack of new tribes today because our internet-driven mass culture is so all pervasive, persuasive and homogenous? Where every new tune, video, fashion or thought is instantly available for consumption in the palm of your hand without ever having to try and seek it out and really think about what you are searching for? Even if that is to help you form your identity?

Perhaps our obsession with nostalgia is a result of this.

It could be that it's more satisfying to seek the counter cultures of yesterday and identify yourself through a prism of history - like Nineties alt rock and indie - where perhaps not every single is on Spotify and a bit of crate-digging research is required. Perhaps that also explains the comeback of other Nineties bands like so-called shoegazers Ride or My Bloody Valentine, grungers L7 and the resurgence in popularity of Northern Soul. It seems every 'new' scene, whether fashion or music, is a celebration of something past. And the Goth Weekender in Whitby is more popular than ever.

Which brings me back to my weekend before seeing Babes spent in Kent.

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Down to Margate...

I was in Margate for the Ace Cafe-curated Margate Meltdown, which is a celebration of the old days when mods and rockers had a punch-up on the seafront on Bank Holidays past (the Ace Cafe being a famed bikers hang-out on Hanger Lane in London).

As a result, tens of thousands had descended on the seafront. And it was chuffing marvellous.

Margate wasn't just awash with mods and rockers. Of the huge crowds, alongside the bikers, there were teens bringing old tribes bang up to date in the 21st Century - Teddyboys and girls, steampunkers, hippies, ravers, cyberpunks, bobbysoxers, soulboys, Amy Winehouse-channelling beehive and tat sporting fifties freaks. As well as your more run-of-the-mill folk and maybe still quite 'alternative' sorts like me.

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You're never too old for a tribe


It was brilliantly British in so many ways, and left me thrilled that there are still so many tribes out there, celebrating and identifying and being just a little bit eccentric.

You just knew the mods had spent hours tracking down vintage accessories for their scooters, both mod men and women scouring secondhand shops for the perfect vintage tonic suits and dresses, the bikers polishing their vintage bikes they'd spent years restoring or targeting on eBay to within an inch of their lives, and the Ace Cafe stage DJs playing tunes they had spent years amassing and were never, ever for sale on Amazon.

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Mods and rockers together at last...


But when you think about the booming fashion in vintage style from the likes of Liam Gallagher's Pretty Green and Paul Weller's Real Stars Are Rare, to Wayne Hemingway's vintage festivals, nostalgia really is more huge than ever and it seems the vast majority of subcultures now are looking back.

I'm old and lucky enough to have witnessed and participated firsthand in the subcultures of indie, acid house, grunge and Britpop through the Eighties and Nineties. That's four major youth counter culture movements in little over a decade. In the 20 years since, how many have we had?

There might not be a new youth counter culture on the horizon anytime soon, but when the retro ones are so much more fun, can you blame the kids for wanting to be in the oldies gang?

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Social Media Defence Guide

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Today I'm talking about the big ole world of 'Social Media' and how I feel about it. But before I rant on I just wanted to include a brief disclaimer; of course there are so many positives to social media and aspects that I and others really enjoy about it, this blog being one of them! Whether you're using it to draw inspiration or to communicate with a loved one that lives on the other side of the world it most definitely has massive upsides, however, if like me sometimes you need a bit of a reality check, reassurance or guidance on it's use the following tips may be of some to use to you...

As a blogger that mainly focuses on female beauty it's only natural that I keep up with the latest trends and influences so therefore a lot of my work involves regular use of social media for research, inspiration and promotional purposes, not to mention the occasional snoop and entertaining myself with funny dogs (I'm only human). This evening, like any other, I found my self getting lost in social media; constant scrolling, updating and refreshing and for the first time in quite a while I took a step back and fully reflected upon how this made me feel; the outcome wasn't at all positive...

'I wish my hair looked like that', 'I could never pull off that outfit', 'her skin is SO clear', 'dear lord that handbag probably cost a year's salary', 'I should probably go to the gym more', 'I uploaded that same photo and didn't get as many likes as that', these are just a choice selection of some of the statements/thoughts that occur during/following a standard social media 'scrolling mission'.

Now these may just sound like the ramblings of an insecure twenty-something and I can't apply this effect to everyone that uses social media, however after conversations with various friends I realised I'm not alone. Not only have I had these feelings first hand, I've noticed this daily from other social media users; just one example is the comments found on my own and other YouTube channels from subscribers who are disgruntled at their lack of a 'perfect body, face or life'. It seems social media has pushed us into a world where we're all comparing ourselves to everyone else a lot of the time rather than just focusing on ourselves and our own lives.

There's so many further questions I started to ask myself once I acknowledged the effect that it had had on me, I first looked to myself; why does this happen? Why do I feel like this? Have I always been like this? Am I jealous? Can I not be happy for others? Am I missing something? Am I taking social media too seriously? The list could and does go on.

I found myself searching for a mechanism to deal with these feelings when they arise so I've come up with a brief self help guide on how to prevent/combat these feelings when I encounter them; a 'Social Media Defence Guide' if you will. I've had this post written for so long and sometimes when I feel down I like to come back and read it...



Reality Check

Remember. Remember what actually makes you happy, remember that no one is perfect, remember that everyone has something they like about their self, remember that the majority of people work hard for what they have, remember you don't know what someone is going through, remember that you don't know exactly what someone's daily life involves and remember that everyone is not a threat.




Think Positive


Positive Outlook. Following on from my previous strategy and as a general rule in daily life, a good way of combating social media negativity is to view social media activity with a positive or neutral attitude, so, if Jane Bloggs with 400K Instagram followers is jetting off to the Bahamas with her designer bag and toned derriere try and keep negative thought processes at bay by remembering that she has probably worked hard to get there and that this should in no way what so ever make you feel inferior. Look toward the positives you have in your life. STOP THE COMPARISON. You are you and therefore will never be the same as anyone else. This counterproductive rut of thinking will only prevent you from being the best version of you you can be!



Don't Obsess


Turn off. This is quite an obvious one but let's be honest we don't NEED to be attached to our phones, laptops, tablets etc. 24/7 and it's certainly not imperative to surf, browse, scroll or click for hours. For me this is before going to sleep, a time usually when my mind tends to run wild and triggers me to feel bad about myself. As a result I've decided to focus my attention on other activities; reading, watching a good film, running a bath, going for a walk, maybe even talking to another human being (wild concept I know). I actually just posted a 'Beauty Sleep Aids' blog post on products that help me sleep too!

Sometimes getting lost in social media can obscure our priorities and what is ACTUALLY important. It's vital that we don't warp our perception, view or angle of social media; it's a bit like staring at a word for too long eventually it starts to look incorrect or different, take social media for face value and don't over think or process.

I think in a nut shell it all needs to be taken with a pinch of salt. Hopefully I'm not the only person to feel this way! What're your thoughts on it? I would really love to know how you feel in the comments over on
www.emmagriffy.com

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Three Reasons Banning Skinny Models Isn't the Answer

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Earlier this week, the Advertising Standard Authority called out fashion house Yves Saint Laurent for an "irresponsible" advert that featured a model deemed "unhealthily underweight." The advert, which was printed in Elle UK, was subsequently banned.

As someone who suffered an eating disorder in my teens, I get this and am well aware of the destructive influence that unrealistic beauty ideals can have on women (and men). As someone who writes frequently about body image and the impact of limiting beauty standards, I also understand the urgency for reacting to an image like this.

But I also know that the fight for body acceptance and body positivity cannot just be about an outright removal and 'banning' of skinny body types... or any body type. Here's why.

1. Body acceptance doesn't mean thin rejection
I have a cousin who is extremely thin; in fact, she doesn't look too different from the girl in the YSL ad. But she eats well, is active and is a high-functioning, happy, smart woman. She just can't put on weight, no matter what she eats or how much. If she appeared in a fashion campaign, it'd probably be criticised.

I'm not defending the YSL ad or justifying the millions of highly stylised, Photoshopped images we see everywhere of women who are digitally shrunk and edited so they don't even look like themselves.

I agree that public outcry about the YSL's ad and the ASA's quick critique of it is important and a good sign that we're talking about what is harmful or helpful for creating a healthier body image.

But what is worrying is when these responses start becoming more of a knee-jerk reaction than a creation of fair, reasonable dialogue. In our haste to criticise the thin beauty ideal we now run the risk of rejecting thinness altogether.

We forget we're talking about actual people and their bodies. We start saying things like, "Well, real women have curves" forgetting as we utter these snide comments that women of all shapes and sizes, even the skinny ones, are real women.

And yes, I know that skinny shaming isn't the same thing as fat shaming; that slim people still gain from their thin privilege in a way fat people can't. But to really move towards body acceptance, we need to move away from any stigmatising or shaming of anyone. It means not creating blanket regulations that will ban any one body type and elevate another without considering the many complex factors that make it what it is.

2. Size isn't always an indication of health
There is the dangerous trap, as ASA so neatly fallen into, of doing to very thin people what we've been doing to the very fat - which is to draw very simplistic conclusions about their health based solely on their size.

For example, earlier this year, France also made splashy headlines for banning the use of catwalk models deemed to be too thin and who fall under a certain BMI. It is always a good thing that measures are taken to ensure the physical health of anyone in any industry, so of course this news met with pretty strong global applause.

But when we consider how the use of BMI alone has proven to be a grossly inaccurate gauge of an individual's health, we can't help but wonder how sincere the fashion world is in advocating for better, holistic health. My thin cousin certainly wouldn't qualify as a model under these rulings though she's very healthy.

When we tell a skinny girl she is banned from being a model because she's too thin (and therefore 'unhealthy'), that's not too different from telling a fat girl she can't be considered for the catwalk because she'd be glamourising the 'unhealthiness' of obesity.

Either way, we're judging how right or wrong, good or bad, healthy or unhealthy a body is based solely on its size - a horribly inaccurate way to measure health, as proven by plenty of recent scientific studies.

3. Healthy bodies look very diverse
I also don't entirely agree with body diversity campaigns which end up featuring only larger women. I know it's about giving visibility to sections of society that are frequently marginalised or shamed; but if we're trying to embody words like 'diversity', 'acceptance' and 'positivity' in our discussions on body image, then we need to not do it by inadvertently erasing whole body types.

We need to stop polarising and start including. Instead of responding to the thin beauty ideal by simply replacing the images with a fatter demographic, we need to start featuring people who are thin and fat and everything in between alongside each other.

We need to go beyond demonising one type of body and promoting another, but to work towards normalising all bodies.

Yes, banning adverts that perpetuate unhealthy beauty ideals may be an important step for fostering stronger discussions about how we, as women, are being represented and valued. But the effort needs to go far beyond just bans; those are just stopgap measures.

We need to simultaneously foster the creation of public spaces and media that honestly and comfortably allow real, healthy bodies to exist as they are.

But here's the crux: healthy bodies manifest in a million different ways. They're tall, short or medium, 90 pounds or 200 pounds, differently abled, rounded or angular, wrinkled or smooth, soft or taut, many shades of white, black and brown. They have collarbones that protrude and bellies that bulge, thighs with and without gaps, firm biceps and wobbly underarm fat, flat chests and fleshy breasts.

Until we can respect all these forms without jumping to assumptions about their health, we won't go far in changing the way we appreciate and value the diversity of our bodies. We'll simply hop from one (restricted) ideal to the next; and reject whatever doesn't fit that ideal.

I'd like to propose that instead of working from a place of lack - rejection, banning, negating - we work towards building spaces that affirm, accept and celebrate true difference and diversity.

A space where if there's an image of very skinny girl, the same ad series gives equal prominence to a very fat girl, a woman of colour and a differently abled girl.

A space where, most importantly, a body isn't framed to promote any particular beauty ideal, but celebrates the radical new concept of an individual feeling honest, accepting, caring and loving towards her body, its health and every other component part of who she is.

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A Balance of Style

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With so many trends out there people seem to be piling it all on at once and walking around in some scary stuff. Don't get me wrong I am all for expression through style but I am also all for balance, so let's just take a step back, because it's all becoming a bit much.

The thing with balance is, it requires restraint and I know how difficult that can be when all those amazing trends strut down the catwalk, but you must be strong! What is your existing style? What trends work with that? By taking elements from the catwalk and highlighting your look, your aesthetic will be more effortless. We need to remember that not all trends suit all people.

I've made some hideous fashion mistakes in the past but I think you need to do that before you can find what suits you. With the rise of social media those mistakes will hang around in cyberspace until the zombie apocalypse deletes your wardrobe malfunctions for good. So the key is to simplify and no that doesn't mean being "basic". It's better to be demure than attention seeking, you will get noticed for the right reasons because no one likes a clown (it's called coulrophobia).

I have an assortment of tattoos and my hair is currently shaved on one side and so because my overall look is quite full-on I tend to keep my attire simple. I like to mix high street with designer, vintage and alternative fashion to create something special. A look I'm not in danger of seeing on someone else and an aesthetic I can call my own.

A good example of what I've been warbling on about is a recent blog post I wrote about boyfriend tees.

I styled a men's Mambo graphic t-shirt with a striped midi skirt, statement clutch and heels. Easy. An outfit which works from day to night, no fuss - I didn't even add any accessories other than my trusty skull ring. The key elements in this outfit were colour, the silhouette and statement prints. There's not too much skin on show and the loose style of the t-shirt works well against the fitted shape of the skirt. The yellow of the smiley face is echoed in the yellow of the statement clutch and the stripes and comic print compliment each other. I've kept the heels fierce but simple in patent black and my hair is big. That's really all there is to it. A balance of style.
2015-06-05-1433520162-1736717-HelenSStanleyHuffPost.jpg

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

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