Youth Tribes Are Still Alive - Even Though They're Mostly Retro

June 5, 2015, 9:15 am

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I had a a bit of a cultural epiphany the other day. After a wonderful long weekend holiday on the Kent coast, I saw recently reformed Nineties rock band Babes in Toyland at the Shepherd's Bush Empire.

For those unfamiliar with Babes In Toyland, frontwoman Kat Bjelland and her cohorts inspired Courtney Love to become a rock star and were pivotal not just to the grunge scene, but the riot grrrl movement and arguably, the last wave of feminism.

In a packed Shepherds Bush Empire grungers, rockers, riot grrrls, indie kids and even a heavily pregnant office girl dressed in black were going crazy to Babes tunes like a 'Bruise Violet'.


The reformed Babes in Toyland


Everyone seemed united with a shared love - I couldn't put my finger on it, but there was a certain *look* about everyone there too. The band were powerful, visceral, funny, entertaining and possibly tighter musically than they were first time around. Kat was a snarling, passionate embodiment of rock, her body a slave to her involuntary dance moves, so strongly did she allow the power of music to possess her.

It was 1991 all over again. I was transported back to when I had spiked hair, wore charity shop dresses coupled with brothel creepers, and listened to Babes while studying feminist film theory as part of my degree at the University of East Anglia in Norwich. But as well as nostalgia, I felt the feminist fire in my belly and comradeship with a tribe all over again, something I hadn't felt in years.

Frankly, Babes and in particular crazy-haired, bovver-boot wearing, body spasming Kat, are required viewing for today's lily-livered, fourth-wave, no-platforming feminists. She is the embodiment of not giving a shit.

But it made me think - what kind of young feminist role models do we have in music now? Where are the new subculture tribes in the 21st Century?

Where are the youngsters picking up a guitar and screaming songs about the patriarchy in such a compelling way? Why are there not more young people dressing crazy and going mad for their particular brand of music? And outside of feminism, what new subcultures are there for young people to join, to believe in and celebrate?

Is the seeming lack of new tribes today because our internet-driven mass culture is so all pervasive, persuasive and homogenous? Where every new tune, video, fashion or thought is instantly available for consumption in the palm of your hand without ever having to try and seek it out and really think about what you are searching for? Even if that is to help you form your identity?

Perhaps our obsession with nostalgia is a result of this.

It could be that it's more satisfying to seek the counter cultures of yesterday and identify yourself through a prism of history - like Nineties alt rock and indie - where perhaps not every single is on Spotify and a bit of crate-digging research is required. Perhaps that also explains the comeback of other Nineties bands like so-called shoegazers Ride or My Bloody Valentine, grungers L7 and the resurgence in popularity of Northern Soul. It seems every 'new' scene, whether fashion or music, is a celebration of something past. And the Goth Weekender in Whitby is more popular than ever.

Which brings me back to my weekend before seeing Babes spent in Kent.


Down to Margate...

I was in Margate for the Ace Cafe-curated Margate Meltdown, which is a celebration of the old days when mods and rockers had a punch-up on the seafront on Bank Holidays past (the Ace Cafe being a famed bikers hang-out on Hanger Lane in London).

As a result, tens of thousands had descended on the seafront. And it was chuffing marvellous.

Margate wasn't just awash with mods and rockers. Of the huge crowds, alongside the bikers, there were teens bringing old tribes bang up to date in the 21st Century - Teddyboys and girls, steampunkers, hippies, ravers, cyberpunks, bobbysoxers, soulboys, Amy Winehouse-channelling beehive and tat sporting fifties freaks. As well as your more run-of-the-mill folk and maybe still quite 'alternative' sorts like me.


You're never too old for a tribe


It was brilliantly British in so many ways, and left me thrilled that there are still so many tribes out there, celebrating and identifying and being just a little bit eccentric.

You just knew the mods had spent hours tracking down vintage accessories for their scooters, both mod men and women scouring secondhand shops for the perfect vintage tonic suits and dresses, the bikers polishing their vintage bikes they'd spent years restoring or targeting on eBay to within an inch of their lives, and the Ace Cafe stage DJs playing tunes they had spent years amassing and were never, ever for sale on Amazon.



Mods and rockers together at last...


But when you think about the booming fashion in vintage style from the likes of Liam Gallagher's Pretty Green and Paul Weller's Real Stars Are Rare, to Wayne Hemingway's vintage festivals, nostalgia really is more huge than ever and it seems the vast majority of subcultures now are looking back.

I'm old and lucky enough to have witnessed and participated firsthand in the subcultures of indie, acid house, grunge and Britpop through the Eighties and Nineties. That's four major youth counter culture movements in little over a decade. In the 20 years since, how many have we had?

There might not be a new youth counter culture on the horizon anytime soon, but when the retro ones are so much more fun, can you blame the kids for wanting to be in the oldies gang?

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Anyone for Jump-Starter, a Human Kick-Starter?

June 10, 2015, 9:35 am

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There are have been some wonderful life enhancing tech start-ups over the past few years. Airbnb and Uber have changed, for the better, the way I consume travel and getting about. But there is one that every time I go running in a town or city gets me thinking. I love looking at and often "investing in" the new ideas and ingenuity that flow out of Kickstarter and I love the way that it can genuinely empower (and often bring a healthy dose of harsh reality) to entrepreneurs and inventors.

But I can't stop thinking about the possibilities of some form of "urban regeneration human kick-starter" whereby like-minded folk pledge themselves to bringing new energy to a place that needs jump-starting into life.

There is a growing body of evidence from major cities around the world where resourceful, thrifty, urban pioneering "doers" colonise down at heel districts and upcycle them into vibrant liveable places. The Mitte district in Berlin, Williamsburg in New York, Hackney Wick in London and the Baltic Quarter in Liverpool to name just a few.


There is often talk of the UK being a crowded island with no room to build new homes for its housing starved population and the concept of green belt, whilst not been totally sacrosanct, is in my opinion generally a decent one. But I keep seeing vast swathes of opportunity to densify our towns and cities in areas that the urban pioneering types would love.

On the last bank holiday weekend i was lucky enough to spend it in Liverpool and witness the massive Three Queens event and to continue to plan for our Transatlantic 175 event in July. I can't resist running along the magnificent Mersey at sunrise and this weekend I ran throughout the all the nooks and crannies of the Liverpool Docklands and the Leeds -Liverpool canal corridor for the first time. There is a pocket of brave and beautifully conceived regeneration of those awe inspiring industrial buildings at the Titanic Hotel.

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The Pleasure and Pain of Shoes Examined at V&A

June 11, 2015, 11:39 am

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Shoes are a popular subject and it could have been so easy for the V&A to pull together a couple of hundred pairs of shoes, place them prettily and charge an admission fee for still, visitors would have come. So credit to the V&A curation team for deciding to interrogate this subject for the result is a revealing and challenging exhibition on a much-loved item.

Sexuality and shoes have always been deeply intertwined and a part of this exhibition is stylised with sultry red velvet textures and deep maroon colours. It screams seduction. But the pieces on show demonstrate how sex and fetishism have influenced footwear.

The high heels and knee high leather boots are on show, as is the evocative trademark red sole of the Louboutin. But this link with sex is nothing new for also on display is a pair of shoes worn by a Japanese orian, a prostitute, where the platforms are so high as to make any kind of practical movement impossible.




This restriction of female movement retains its power as a source of fantasy, which we see today in all high heels and is demonstrated at its extreme in the David Lynch/Christian Louboutin collaboration that is on show, where the shoes have impossibly angled heels, forcing the woman to crawl rather than walk.

Of course, for many this is in dangerous territory. Shoes which restrict female movement and encourage submission is a politically charged subject. But what was revealing about this exhibition was the history of gender roles and behaviour that has been weaved into shoes - and how this can often surprise.

It is the female shoe that we expect to be high-heeled and embellished. This design is associated with a concept of femininity and, again, the restriction of movement is desirable. In comparison, masculinity is associated with rugged boots and big, heavy shoes.




So where does that leave the cowboy boot? For cowboys are considered to be some kind of masculine archetype but yet the pair of cowboy boots on show are high heeled and decorative, covered in studs and beads. It's interesting, seeing assumptions challenged and this exhibition does just that.

Some of the pairs of shoes are extraordinary historical artefacts - and included with a purpose. One pair of sandals is 2000 years old, from late Pharaonic or early Roman Egypt, and the shoes are delicately embellished with nearly pure gold. Intriguingly their sole is designed with a sharp point at the toes, much like contemporary designs. It's interesting how long this idealized and desired foot shape has been around.

The V&A has vast archives and wonderful access to so many collections to bring together a great range of shoes. And in addition to many historical artefacts there are, of course, some headline grabbers.




David Beckham has lent a pair of boots from his Manchester United playing days and there's the delicate glass slipper designed for Disney's recent Cinderella film - both demonstrations of shoes as fantasy items that can transform behaviour and people. The infamous Vivienne Westwood platforms that Naomi Campbell fell over in are on display (and looking as desirable as ever), as are a pair from Imelda Marcos' vast collection.

But a real highlight is the deadly pair of red ballet shoes from the 1948 film, The Red Shoes. A stunning and iconic treasure from cinema history and in a deeply evocative blood red as opposed to the more usual candy pink.

Much like the stunning Alexander McQueen exhibition that is also on in the V&A, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain examines the extremes in fashion. And much like Savage Beauty, this exhibition is also fascinating - full of craft, intellectual discourse and a flash of celebrity.

Victoria and Albert Museum, London to January 31, 2016

Image Credits:
1.Installation view of Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, Christian Louboutin 'Pigalle' pump © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
2.Installation view of Shoes: Pleasure and Pain © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
3.Installation view of Shoes: Pleasure and Pain © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
4.Red ballet shoes made for Victoria Page (Moira Shearer) in The Red Shoes (1948), silk satin, braid and leather, England, Freed of London (founded in 1929), 1948. Photograph reproduced with the kind permission of Northampton Museums and Art Gallery

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How to Invent a Space - My Conversation at SohoCreate

June 11, 2015, 11:55 am

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As a women in the creative industry, I'm always keen to look outside the box and speak to peers who speak my language. On Saturday, I was thrilled to be asked to speak at Soho Create, a series of talks that celebrated the creativity of Soho in London and the people who frequent the area. The week held discussions, speeches, chats, drinks and performances and I was thrilled to be asked to speak with Sonja Klaus, set designer of blockbusters such as Prometheus and Gladiator, on the topic of "Inventing Spaces", chaired by Elle Decoration Editor-in-Chief Talib Choudry.





While both falling under the umbrella of 'designer' Sonja and I's jobs could not be more different - but somehow have inherent similarities that come with the title. Our creative process may be in different industries, but follow the same pattern. For example, the process of installing a job starts with a client. You come up with an idea or concept and create it in your head. You would then choose the objects and decide how they - and the space itself - is going to work. Then, you create it and watch it unfold in front of your eyes.

One really interesting point that was raised was today's reliance of technology in the design community. I'm all for networks like Instagram and Pinterest and I can see the value and convenience, but there's something to be said for seeing things with our own eyes. As a child I was literally dragged by my mother to museums and galleries. Now I know what to look for and can see inspiration everywhere - it's all about training your eye. This was another point where Sonja and I saw eye-to-eye. Creating a space is about so much more than a look, it's about the smell, sounds and the taste and you need to be in the physical world to experience these.

You can see the conversation on Twitter under the hashtag #InventingSpaces and I'm really grateful for everyone who joined myself and Sonja!

Love Kelly xx

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Burberry Prorsum Winter Collection 2015: A Nostalgic View of the 60s Made for Tomorrow

June 12, 2015, 2:40 am

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Burberry is one of the most iconic British Fashion Houses maintained by quality, perfect tailoring and innovation as the starting point in each collection. It was founded over 150 years ago in 1856 when Mr Thomas Burberry opened the first store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, at the young age of 21. Later on, the distinctive Equestrian Knight logo was created adding the word Prorsum which means in Latin forward. A constant motto for such avant-garde company.



Image courtesy Burberry Prorsum.

In 1914, Burberry was commissioned to adapt its coat to the rough elements of warfare and the quintessential trench coat was born. It is still one of the garments most closely associated with Burberry. The beginning of this century witnessed a successful expansion on a global scale and online sales led by by its former CEO's Rose Marie Bravo and Angela Ahrendts, and the current CEO and Chief Creative Officer, Christopher Bailey. A visionary who has managed to position the Fashion House as one of the most influential in the world today.

Bailey's catwalks are much more than a mere presentation of next year's collection; they have become a unique experience with live music by Clare Maguire on this occasion and one of the hottest ticket during the London Fashion Week. Patchwork, Pattern & Prints, the title of the latest Winter collection, shown us with the link of perfect tailoring and the unexpected turn to the 60s in colours and bohemian flair. A sparkle of nostalgia in a contemporary setting. A break away from happy moments with lessons learnt. Perhaps an attempt to recover the optimism of a Golden Decade after the worse crisis in almost 100 years.



Image courtesy Burberry Prorsum.

As Bailey says:

We called the show 'Patchwork, Pattern & Prints' which really sums up what's at the heart of the collection; a relaxed yet intricate collection of dramatic silhouettes, handcrafted embroidery, and detailed embellishment. We loved this theme of a patchwork of ideas, textiles, silhouettes and our favourite Burberry pieces, evolved to reflect the bohemian relaxed spirit of the show.

Flowers immersed in warm colours recreates the last days of a plentiful summer. Memories fading away at the first signs of snow. A recap. A pause. Is happiness something we talk about in past tense? Oversized mono-coloured coats and ponchos ready for the freeze. Playful suede boots to continue the fun. Strings dangling from the ankle caressing the floor. Carelessness at its most. The Game is ON. Vintage that did not feel like vintage. Flawlessly succession of flowers and colour dots, as if the show were a bucolic poem. And then popping in and out the iconic trench coat in all different combinations mentioned above: suede, flower patterns and colour block.

Uplifting and overwhelming. It ended with the lead singer Maguire supported by London Contemporary Voices who surrounded the space from the top, The Langley Sisters and Clare Maguire's band singing My Sweet Lord under a multicolour paper snow. An extraordinary experience and an understanding why it is one on the hottest tickets during the London Fashion Week.



Image courtesy Burberry Prorsum.

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LCM: Topman Design SS16

June 15, 2015, 4:28 am

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TOPMAN went for a Punk and California surfer look at the beginning of London's Collection Men 2015, with their spring summer 2016 range. London Collections Men, the annual fashion showcase, that brings out the established, as well as emerging new labels from London, catering specifically for menswear opened up with TOPMAN designs at The Old Sorting Office to an audience of A-list celebrities and the fashion savvy.

The Sex Pistols meets The Warriors, wide pleated chinos alongside deep dark denim. Badges adorned jackets, worn over all-over print long sleeve tees.

Pyjama tailoring and pattern were TOPMAN's stand out pieces, bringing ultimate comfortability to the catwalk.

Surfs up! Californian beach boy create this ensemble. Grey is used as a base colour for the turquoise yellow and pink to sit on for next years summer look.

TOPMAN Design was attended by an array of A-list stars from music, T.V and the fashion world. L to R: Lewis Hamilton, Tinie Tempah, Douglas Booth, Nick Grimshaw, Jack Guinness

Topman.com

Pic credit: Topman

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Health and Beauty Tips for Fresh Summer Feet

June 16, 2015, 6:40 am

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Sometimes you just have to love being a blogger, this day was one of them. I was invited, along with a select group of other female health and beauty bloggers, to learn all about a much neglected part of us ... our feet.

Now I know as business woman tottering around in heels and as an avid fitness fanatic that my poor feet go through the mill more than most but I never stopped to give them the TLC they deserved. I feel after what I learnt on this day I will do.



We were invited to attend Office shoes store in central London and kindly given a voucher to purchase a lovely pair of shoes each (there was a point to this, it wasn't just shoes for shoes sake). Now those of you who follow me on twitter will recall a couple of weeks ago I went over on my ankle while running, so at the event I was still restricted to flats. This meant even trying on heels was out. Being forced out of your comfort zone is always something I encourage and I have so many heels already, so I began scouting for flats. I am one of those people who goes out of my way not to be in with the most popular trends; I have never watched or read Harry Potter, I do not own a Mac and I have never worn Converse. However, now I live in London and travel on the tube a lot, the idea of some comfy shoes did appeal. Office had some really different styles to the ones I'd seen everyone else in so I went for these. I am actually really chuffed with them.





Shoes chosen we were then chauffeured to the Charlotte Street Hotel, a beautiful venue behind Oxford Street in central London. We were treated to an amazing three course meal.







Then on to the more serious reason about why we were gathered there. Our long suffering feet. The event was wonderfully hosted by Gina Akers and we learnt some staggering feet facts. A selection of the most shocking were;

• Flip flops are worse for feet than high feels
• The weight women apply to their feet over one day is equivalent to 100 tones
• One quarter of all bones in our bodies are in our feet
• On average we walk 115,000 miles in a life time, that's 4 times around the earth.

A realisation was dawning on me that although I pride myself in taking care of my body and indulging in all things health, I had been neglecting my poor feet. I simply hadn't ever given it much thought.

I have to confess to feeling a little bit smug at choosing one of the most sensible pairs of shoes in the room and part of me wonders whether my subconscious lawyer connected the dots that this would somehow be a good move as the essence of the day was foot health. I do have to reiterate a tip of theirs: Varying your shoe height between high, mid and a flat heel is the best for our feet.

The sponsor of the event was Odor-eaters Slim Soles. These are 'thin soft and discreet insoles specifically designed for women', if you didn't already know that. Its not something I have ever used before but you wouldn't even know they were in the shoe they are so thin. I know this is an issue many people suffer from so with an RRP of £4.00 a pair it seems an obvious choice.

The event was great, not only for the reasons above but I attended with a blogger friend of mine Mitra Wicks, she is launching a women's magazine for London soon (http://elatemagazine.com/) and she's a supporter of all things female. I also met some lovely female bloggers and actually got the opportunity to chat to them. I don't focus on my blogging as much as I should do as I am so busy with law, business and life but these are women who make a career out of blogging. Hats off to them, that's their business and they are doing what the love! It fits my 'women can have it all' ethos very well. Twitter: @theellenextdoor @Rachel_hosie @sabrinalovesyou and @thecocoachelsea to name a few.

Now for the bit that you can take away and hopefully learn from Top Tips for Super Summer Feet:

• Exfoliate- If you're luck enough to be on the beach this summer then take a chance to walk on the and barefoot. Sand is a brilliant exfoliate and wet sand is really cooling. Running barefoot on the sand is also great exercise. When not luck enough to be at the beach, at home use a foot scrub or exfoliant in the bath or shower.

• Move your feet- yes your actual feet, make gentle rotations of your ankle and flex point your toes to help avoid muscle fatigue. If your feet swell in the summer take the opportunity to elevate them when you can.

• Polish- Always separate toes when applying polish. When painting toes start with your little one and work your way in. If you cant keep your feet still use a wall to stead them. Try clipping a clothes peg tightly to the nail polish lid to give you a longer reach.

• Perfect- For last toe polish push back the cuticles first and file the free edge. To avoid ingrowing toenails always clip straight across. Imperfections will be far less noticeable if you opt for a glittery or shimmery shade.

• Massage- Massing your feet is great for easing aches and pains and relieving tension, apply cream to your feet then massage in and enjoy the overall sense of wellbeing.






We were also given a pair of Oder-eaters for the shoes and a cute manicure set. It included a pumice stone. Finally, one good habit I was already in. A tip I got off my mum actually. A quick rub over the bottom of your feet while in the bath leaves them feeling very smooth. Much better than expensive pedicure gadgets that I have bought over the years and the best bit is you can pick one up for as little as one pound. The baby blue nail polish in the set rally appealed as a fresh alternative summer look.

We were asked throughout the day if we liked our feet, I pondered a little but the answer (although I didn't say it out loud) was yes. It's a part of my body I don't have any issues with. Having said that I am not a massive feet fan in general but now my toes look prettier with the new polish, here's a pic of them too. Let's hope this isn't an overshare.



Overall a thoroughly pleasant day, I learnt something. That should always be a benchmark for a good day! I will add these tips to my general health regime and my feet will be getting regular TLC from now on as a thank you for all the amazing places they take me!

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A Few Fancy Father's Day Gift Ideas

June 17, 2015, 9:19 am

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Don't forget it's Father's Day this Sunday - and whether you're clubbing together with siblings or going solo on the gift-giving, it's always nice to make your Dad feel appreciated.

My brothers and I are going in for my dad's gifts and this year I've decided not add on any freestyle element after a number of recent, let's just say 'Pinterest fails' in the DIY gift-giving department. Those sumptuous pictures of chocolate-coated strawberry towers may look beautifully simple but a) they're not, and b) try getting them to survive a cross-county cab journey...

Anyway, here are a few ideas for fancypants presents you can treat your old man to, to say thanks for all those free taxi rides, pearls of wisdom and interest-free loans.

PS. I hope you've all discovered the joys of Click + Collect - order from a number of retailers before 4pm, collect the next day from your choice of collection point - there are loads all across the UK. You can return stuff that way too - I just sent back some pieces I'd (over)ordered and it literally took 2 minutes in my local Budgens one evening. It's AWESOME.


1 Mr Porter x Public School wool-blend sweatshirt, £315 from www.mrporter.com
2 Byredo Cologne Discovery Set, £42 from www.byredo.com
3 Alexander McQueen skull socks, £50 from www.harrods.com
4 Montblanc iPhone holder, £145 from Selfridges
5 EKOCYCLE x H Brothers tie, £49.95, 6 EKOCYCLE x Globe-trotter denim card wallet, £75 and 7 EKOCYCLE x The Office of Mr Scott oxfords, £380, all from the recycling EKOCYCLE initiative exclusively from Harrods
8 Byredo Bibliotheque candle - the smell of leather and dusty floors - LOVE, £50 from Harrods or www.byredo.com
9 Dior Homme shower gel, £27.50 from various Dior retailers including Harrods
10 Penhaligons Bayolea aftershave balm, £29, from Selfridges
11 Dior Eau Sauvage cologne, a modern, sophisticated and highly sensual remix of the classic men's fragrance that made it's original debut the year that England last won a World Cup, £49.50 (50ml)/£67.50 (100ml) from various retailers including Selfridges and Harrods.
12 Tom Ford Neroli Portofino conditioning beard oil - how luxurious - £40 from Selfridges
13 Mrs White's Absolute Gentleman Moisturising lotion, £20 from www.roullierwhite.com



1 Byredo Mister Marvelous cologne soap bar, £17 from Liberty or www.byredo.com
2 Swatch Sistem 51 Green, £108 from swatch.com
3 Jaeger elasticated woven belt, £50 from www.jaeger.co.uk
4 Cover-Up WoodBack phone covers in a range of woods and for various mobile handsets, from £16.95 from www.cover-up.com
5 Jeans Shop at Club Monaco selvedge denim shirt, available in store, www.clubmonaco.com
6 Nike Flyknit 3.0 running shoes, £125 from Harrods
7 Le Creuset G10 lever corkscrew bottle opener in a very chic black nickel, £159 from Selfridges
8 Molinard Rasoline almond oil shaving cream, £15 from www.roullierwhite.com
9 The Camden Watch Company Men's No29 watch, £110 from WatchShop.com
10 Shinola, Runwell Contrast Chrono watch, £710 from www.shinola.com
11 Happy Socks, £8 a pair from their new Seven Dials flagship store plus www.asos.com
12 Aquascutum card wallet with blue leather back, £100 from acquascutum.com


1 Marc by Marc Jacobs MBM5545, £239 from Selfridges
2 Whoop Ass BBQ Sauce set, £17.99 and 3 EShave double edge razor, £60, both from Selfridges
4 Crown Royal premium Canadian whisky, £26.95 from www.31dover.com
5 Veuve Clicquot champagne mailbox, £54.95, 6 Tom Ford beard comb, £28, 7 Nutribullet red edition, £99.95, 8 Hay anthracite salt and pepper grinder, £27, 9 Casamigos blanco tequilla, £62.99, 10 Taylor of Old Bond Street sandalwood shaving soap with wooden bowl, £24.50, 11 NONE smokefree BBQ, £140 and 12 Lipault washbag, £32 (exclusive) all available from Selfridges

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Margate - As the Opening of Dreamland Fast Approaches

June 17, 2015, 10:17 am

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A seaside town that the press often depicts as a bit of a basket case. I have one word for it: amazing! Margate is truly walking with a swagger these days. People are moving from their one bedroom flats in London to a four bedroom house and opening cafes, gallery shops.

Every time I go there I see more young couples doing something interesting with an old building. There is a cultural institution there, The Turner Contemporary that has helped to "gild brand Margate". Margate is not being given a leg up by city folk like in Whitstable. These are young, often creative, without vast sums of money who are spotting an opportunity that is relatively affordable evocative property, a sandy beach, within reach of London and some likeminded pioneers. My god it's exciting there. I look at it as a place full of exciting opportunities. You know that in 10 years' time it won't be a failed Portas High St - it'll be a cool town.

Now as the opening of Dreamland Margate fast approaches part of the HemingwayDesign team are spending a decent chunk of every week in Margate and we are seeing, at first hand, the town starting to do what Brighton started to do at pace in the late 60s, 70s and early 80s and start to attract a community that will form the bedrock to a more financially and culturally vibrant town.

Like many seaside towns Margate still has its drug and street drinking problems, but there are now many less depressing things to take the eye. As the train times to central Kent towns and London gradually become eroded, as more decent employment opportunities materialise, and as affordability in London becomes increasingly out of reach for many, the wealth of relatively low cost "projects" in terms of properties that need TLC is attracting "pioneers " on a weekly basis.

Of course there are those who have spotted the opportunity to "invest" in property in Margate, but at least these are not the Far Eastern and Russian "squirrel our money way in a safe haven Buy to Leave Empty property" buyers that are blighting the London housing market. For every person that is spotting an opportunity to get a return on investment, there is someone willing to give Margate a go as a home and a place to work from.

There is positive form of gentrification going on, and bring it on, because the rebirth of Margate, London's sandy beach is one helluva an uplifting story. Dreamland when it finally reopens this summer will be another milestone and being part of helping this great British seaside town to rediscover its mojo is a responsibility that we are not taking lightly.

For more on Dreamland, click here.

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I Dyed My Hair Blue - And *I* Never Guessed What Would Happen Next

June 19, 2015, 4:23 am

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[please note, the picture associated with the link is not me, unfortunately. she is much more beautiful.]

So hair dye. Not that controversial a topic, you'd have thought. Barely worth a mention on the internet. Well, apparently real life differs in its opinion of it.

I am, in general, a fairly inoffensive person. Fairly severe shyness means that I find conversing with people, especially strangers, quite difficult. I maunder quietly along, the only noticeable thing being that I use a wheelchair some of the time (no, I'm not "wheelchair bound" - nor am I faking when I'm using a wheelchair... but that's a subject for a whole other post). If I'm in a car, sitting down, or waiting at a shop till, I am Ms Anonymous.

Or I was, until I dyed my hair blue.

Apparently this minor change in my appearance is enough to trigger an extremely different reaction from strangers. This is the only explanation I can find for the fact that in the past three weeks, since dying my hair, I have attracted more rudeness and abuse than in the three years previous to that.

I went into Boots yesterday to collect my prescription. I waited in a queue, and was queue-jumped by an elderly gentleman. Now, I don't want to think about the sort of reaction which this would have provoked had I queue-jumped him. As it was, the pharmacy staff ignored it. Which okay, fair enough, I can see that it might be difficult to challenge someone you're supposed to be there to help. I didn't make a fuss for a similar reason.

However, I then waited... and waited... and waited... for someone to acknowledge my presence. Not even to help me: I could see that they were somewhat busy. But I stood at the counter for five or six minutes, directly in front of a member of staff, and wasn't even looked at. I've worked front-line jobs before, and I would always think to look up and say something like, "I'll be with you when I've finished X," or whatever. Equally, previous experiences at this pharmacy have been quite positive. Today's? TOTALLY DIFFERENT. I eventually went away without being served because I was not able to stand for any longer (see 'wheelchair user', above). And just for the record, this means that night I did not have all of the medications I need - and I had to make an entire new journey the following day in order to try and get them, which when you're severely disabled is not particularly easy.

I might have shrugged it off as just one of those things if it had been the first incident of its kind. But it wasn't.

There was the man who was driving in the opposite direction to me in a car. I pulled over to allow him room past, but apparently not with enough speed (it was, it should be said, equally his responsibility to leave room: it was a minor road with no right of way in either direction) who wound down his window to yell at me for not moving over quite fast enough.

There was the ice cream van woman who screamed at me for having the audacity to try and park in a designated parking spot in a public car park. It seems she felt she had a right to the space because she was parked in the spot next door and felt I would be in the way of her customers.

There was a man driving another car who refused to wind down his window when I made signals requesting that he did so. The reason I was making said signals was that there was a road blockage ahead, and I thought it would be kind to inform him so that he could turn round before getting stuck. (I'm afraid that although I am not usually vindictive, I can't help feeling that it would have been karmic justice if he then got stuck in an extremely long tailback.)

I dyed my hair an unusual colour. I thought it would be fun, and maybe even pretty. Instead, I've had an unexpected lesson in prejudice.




Afterword: I spoke to someone in Boots today, who apologised immediately and sincerely. I am feeling slightly less agin the world in consequence

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LCM SS16: Tailoring Top Ten

June 19, 2015, 5:05 am

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Men's tailoring in the U.K is currently thriving and now the dust has settled on another frantic weekend at London Collection:Men for The Dapper Chapper, I've now had a good chance to reflect.





Here are my top ten tailoring winners from LC:M

1. Turnbull & Asser SS16

Turnbull and Asser perhaps produced my favourite collection from the weekend. Savile Row's Turbull & Asser can often go unnoticed but they are well and truly at the forefront of British tailoring and I'm still thinking about some of their stand-out pieces.

The collection challenges the meaning of being English and infuses Aztec, African and Japanese designs to reflect our multi-cultural heritage. Big lapels on show coupled with their infamous coloured shirts. Check out these Double Breasted Jackets:





2. Hardy Amies SS16

Hardy Amies Creative Director Mehmet Ali's spring summer 2016 collection was inspired by Sir Hardy himself in 1968 when he designed the costumes for Stanley Kubrick's seminal film 2001: A Space Odyssey.

For SS16 functionality is key, inspired by high altitude aviation 'G suits', which are multi-layered for body temperature regulation. Dry cotton seersuckers are re-imagined in survival orange, aviation green and navy suiting, debuting an exclusive technical 'filtration rib' fabric, allowing the wearer comfort in hotter climates, a function imperative for summer tailoring.

A beautifully put together show at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel did the collection justice.




3. Burberry Prorsum

A star studded line-up of guest awaited and Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey, didn't disappoint! A 24-piece orchestra accompanied the gentle charm of English summer in a show that had 33 of the 40 pieces infused by lace. Even Burberry's iconic trenchcoats were reinvented with a segment of classic beige cut with black lace on the lapel.




4. Chester Barrie

For me, Chester Barrie was one of the brands that finished the week with a lot more people taking notice post LC:M. Established in the 1930's Chester Barrie was one of the first to offer ready-to-wear tailoring but lately have been smothered by the Row's powerhouses.

This weekend the brand had a PR win showcasing a beautiful collection at The Ivy on Covent Garden, which saw all of the star-studded LC:M ambassadors drop by.




5. The Ultimate Dapper Chapper

David Gandy and creative stylist Joe Ottaway were on point all weekend and narrowly miss-out.




Instead, the most stylish street style shot goes to Shaun Gordon. Part of the two man Turnbull and Asser creative team, Shaun Gordon takes the award for not only the biggest lapel but also most stylish street style picture - Shaun Gordon we salute you.





6. Duchamp

Spring Summer 2016 sees Duchamp enter the second chapter of their design evolution. Under the creative direction of Gianni Colarossi, the Duchamp menswear collection continues to be distinguished by fabric innovation and quality. The collection was showcased in the beautiful surroundings of The Rosewood Hotel and included some real gems.




7. ETautz

Tailor Patrick Grant revealed a thoroughly modern take on Savile Row traditions, producing a collection for ETautz which was much more than just the traditional suit. Tailoring was shown through simple statement pieces such as fitted shorts and shirts. The end result contained hooded anoraks, wide leg jeans and bold graphic prints. These were all presented in a neutral colour palette with hints of teal and yellow.




8. Gieves & Hawkes

The iconic tailors that sit at No.1 Savile Row produced a collection without a single tie or dress shirt. A bold move, but designer Jason Basmajian instead traded the traditional for the latin inspiration of Puerto Rico and Cuba. Risky business for such a traditional store but fortune favours the bold & the collection worked perfectly.




9. Dunhill

Of course Dunhill make the list. Dunhill's John Ray took inspiration from the royal's, old school British Gentleman and Jermyn Street hat-wearers - all of whom I happen to like.




10. Oliver Spencer

One of the best shows of the week. A string quartet added a touch of class to the show and Oliver Spencer, who's built a reputation for producing clothes that real men want to wear, is probably the most avant garde on our top ten list. The tartan trousers and shirts in the collection, in particular make them a worthy entry.




Anyone following the weekend or attended, I'd love to know what were your highlights?

Pic credits in order:

Mensfashionpost.com
Turnbull & Asser
Hardy Amies
Burberry Prorsum
Chester Barrie
Rashpal Amrit
Adam Tanous
Duchamp
ETautz
Gieves & Hawkes
Dunhill
Oliver Spencer

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

Your Cheap Clothes Will Cost Lives With Future Rana Plaza Tragedies

June 19, 2015, 9:21 am

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On 23 April 2013, the Rana Plaza complex - an eight-story commercial building in Bangladesh - collapsed, killing 1,134 people and injuring 2,515.

It was the garment industry's worst-ever industrial accident. At least 29 global brands had recent or current orders at the complex.

This wasn't the first such accident and it is not the last. On 13 May this year 72 workers died at a slipper factory in the Philippines.

Such tragedies have now led to a European Community initiative to increase awareness of supply chain issues, gather support for more responsible management and provide for exchanges between businesses, NGOs, trade unions and institutions.

Legislative initiatives relating to transparency, mandatory due diligence and legal recourse are expected to follow.

The Rana Plaza complex catastrophe, in particular, has also led to the making of the recently released True Cost film, an exposé about exploited garment factory workers.

Slave labour existing to provide the developed world with cheap clothes is not a new revelation. What is new is that the Rana Plaza disaster finally removed the anonymity of the workers themselves. We saw their faces and it made visible the wretchedness of their existence.

Much has been made of what companies need to do in order to clean up their supply chains. And, in Europe, it appears this will now be legislated.

In launching my brand I chose to be ethical particularly in relation to working conditions. Some of this was driven by a personal moral stance, some of it was driven by having lived in Dubai.

I was a daily witness to the plight of construction workers and maids and their sorrowed expressions. On my first day, I was told by a colleague to 'shut your eyes to it, there's nothing you can do'.

I fear a similar attitude may be adopted by fashion consumers. They may close their eyes and choose to believe that ethical responsibility lies with the companies who sell to them. To some extent, they would be right. It is up to each company to eliminate bad working practice. That said, the answer is not as simplistic for all.

I have a small company. Personally I can check the source of every material we use. I can ensure that every factory is investigated and monitored for proper practice.

This is in contrast to global, fast fashion companies with multiple brands and enormous and complex supply chains. They have suppliers which have multiple sub-contractors. These multi-nationals are behemoths. They may aim to follow ethical procedure, but the implementation of change and full transformation is likely to be a long, difficult and costly road.

That is not to say they should be let off the hook. On the contrary.

What I would argue is that much of the change needs to be demand-driven. After all, where there is demand, supply will follow. That is the nature of business.

But in order for that to happen, one needs to understand how and what would drive changes in demand patterns.

Firstly, customers would need to become more accustomed to higher priced clothes. If companies are to pay living wages to garment manufacturers in developing countries then at least some of this cost, invariably, will be borne by the customer. Again that is the nature of business. Ethics does not come cheap.

Fast fashion demand is, to a large extent, driven by the value customer - those with limited disposable incomes. The likelihood of such customers opting for clothes that cost more to make and are therefore higher priced is low.

However, these customers could adjust their buying habits. For example, they could reduce or stop buying so many throwaway items. It has become commonplace to buy a very cheap item, wear it once and then discard it.

If customers better understood the differences in quality between cheap, low quality, throwaway items versus better quality and longer-lasting but higher-priced garments they may become more inclined to buy fewer but better clothes. And it may cost them no more.

In order for this to happen, I would argue that it is up to each brand to fully communicate and emphasise their quality standards and thresholds.

If value customers became more discerning in their choice and with regard to the amount of product they buy, then this itself would precipitate a step-change in the fast-fashion volume-driven industry. And such an approach could also be implemented across other customer segments.

In particular, a key driver of change could be in shopping habits of the mass affluent, e.g. the classic 'Waitrose shopper', where disposable income is higher and so more discretion can be exercised.

This demographic has transformed its food shopping habits in recent years with many opting to pay higher prices for organic and/or less traditionally conventional foods.

One could argue that such shoppers could extend these more selective shopping habits to include how they buy clothes.

The challenge here, however, is that ethical clothes do not provide a personal and immediate salubrious benefit in the same way as, say, organic food might. Customers need inducements.

One such inducement could result from perennial proactive awareness campaigns to reduce waste.

Numerous studies have revealed that women only wear around 15-20% of their wardrobe. This statistic could be set against the 350,000 tonnes of garments, worth around £140bn, which end up in UK landfills every year.

Such awareness campaigns could run concurrently to those addressing pollution concerns.

According to the Danish Fashion Institute fashion is the world's 2nd most polluting industry, second only to oil. The fashion industry's polluting factors are driven by 1) chemical production (25% of the world's chemicals are used for textile production) and 2) water contamination (the industry is second to agriculture in terms water pollution).

The problem is that old habits die hard. People need other incentives. One way to foster adoption would be through the support of celebrity co-operation. The influence of celebrity has risen sharply in recent years. A new book (The Road to Character) by New York Times columnist, David Brooks, discusses changing attitudes of self-perception.

He remarks that in 1976, young Americans ranked being famous 15th out of 16 possible life goals. By 2007 51% of young people said it was one of their principal ambitions. He also noted that in a recent multiple-choice quiz, nearly twice as many middle-school girls said they would rather be a celebrity's personal assistant than the president of Harvard University.
Such is the power and allure of celebrity.

The main hindrance to this approach, however, is that it has now become somewhat frowned upon for celebrities to be seen wearing the same piece of clothing twice. Magazines refer to celebrities being 'caught out' or 'recycling' outfits they have previously worn. The Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Royal have each been referred to as 'thrifty' for wearing an outfit more than once. This is in interesting contrast to the late Princess of Wales who was criticised for not repeating her outfits. Such have opinions and expectations changed.

Indeed such attitudes have filtered into standard practice with some people commenting on not wishing to be seen in Facebook photographs wearing clothes they have previously worn.

Perhaps what is needed is a social media campaign where people regularly promote images and instances of themselves with proud proclamations of the number of times the item(s) have previously been worn. Participants could simultaneously publish their images across all the social media platforms they use. Celebrity endorsement and participation would no doubt spur wide collaboration.

Perhaps this would lead to a greater acceptance of repeated wear of garments which would reduce demand for new clothing.

Separately high-end fashion designers, who ultimately establish trends that filter through to the high street, could encourage longer life cycles of those trends. This same message could be reinforced by the fashion press. The potential here is that it would result in clothes having recognised and endorsed longer shelf lives.

Coupled with more discretionary buying, the fashion industry, the environment and developing world labour conditions could be revolutionised.

And this could all happen against a background of customers pushing the companies they buy from for transparency in their working practices. Questions could be posed via social media from which today's brands cannot hide.

Ultimately, consumers can take control and become the driving force of transformational change.

This will require a new normal - a cultural shift in how we buy clothes.

It may be a long road, but it's attainable and fashion statements could transform not just your wardrobe, but your lifestyle choices, social conscience and real people's lives.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

13 Things That Happen When You've Got A Big Bum

June 22, 2015, 8:40 am

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There are two types of women in this world: those with small bums and those with massive bums. (I, proudly, fall into the latter group.)

Women with big bums have recently become something of a spectacle, with many becoming famous for their ass-ets (excuse the pun) above all else. The term belfie spilled on to our social media feeds in 2013 and we haven't looked back since.

But big bums are nothing new and neither is the adoration for them. I've had one for as long as I can remember and am a descendent of a long line of big-bummed women. (You think my bum is big? You wait 'til you see my mum...)

So without further ado, here are 13 things all big-bummed women know to be true.

You own the dance floor whenever a bum song comes on

Sir Mix-A-Lot wrote that one for me, OK?



Just don't automatically assume we can all twerk

'cause it's A LOT harder than it looks



When you wear anything remotely tight everyone thinks you're going on a date

But really you're just going to the shop to get hummus



...and EVERYONE knows when you've got a VPL

Because your PL is so much bigger than everyone else's



For that reason, squats are your friend...

Your slightly annoying, often painful friend.



But so, of course, is cake...

Because thigh gaps are over-rated



That's why you constantly knock things off of tables as you try to squeeze past

That bum just doesn't fit through small gaps, alright?



...and why trying to find clothes that fit is nigh-on impossible

You spend your life jumping around your bedroom trying to squeeze into skinny jeans



But on the plus side, imagine walking around with a built-in cushion to sit on

It's pretty damn cool



Of course, you haven't always loved your big bum...

You used to hate it and want to be skinny



But now you're its number one fan..

*High-fives body confidence*



You have maturity and your fellow big-bummed women to thank for that

Beyonce is your spirit animal



But you still lose your shit whenever someone says "big bums are in fashion"

I mean it's not like you ever had a choice in the matter...

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What Goes on in a WI Meeting: Cake Baking or Booty Shaking?

June 22, 2015, 9:17 am

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I am the co-founder of Manchester's chapter of the Women's Institute. When this crops up in conversation there is often a little bit of confusion. Perhaps because I am in my twenties and have neither a blue-rinse nor a twinset (although Lex, my co-founder does currently have turquoise hair). People are often intrigued as to what the 'new breed' of modern WIs' actually do during their meetings. Do they bake cakes, sing Jerusalem or perhaps hate on men? The answer is none of the above (I do eat cakes that other people make though). There really isn't a typical meeting! Each has a different theme.
Here is an insight into my top three WI meetings. It has been so difficult to decide!




Ethical Fashion: Clothes Swap Party
My favourite meeting was the sustainable fashion event. We live in a world of disposable fashion and the focus of this meeting was to explore some green and ethical ways of updating our wardrobes while keeping our carbon footprint dainty. Each member was invited to bring along three unloved, quality items to swap at our huge clothes swap party. The clothes were amazing; I bagged a Megan from Mad Men style 1960's dress and one of the other girls got a Vivienne Westwood ring!

We also had stylists and designers speaking about the effects of disposable fashion. One of our members is an independent designer who creates beautiful, handcrafted evening gowns and so we invited her to showcase her designs in a catwalk that evening and some of the other members modelled her dresses. An independent hair stylist and makeup artist did the styling. It was so much fun!

We chose to host the party in January, the ideal month for a clothes swap. Everyone has unwanted sequin numbers leftover from the Christmas party or presents picked by partners that don't quite fit their style. As the saying goes, 'one person's trash is another person's treasure'.




Craftivism: Making A Change, One Stitch At A Time
The Craftivist Collective is a group of activists using craft as a peaceful form of protest to draw attention to global issues like poverty, famine and unethical working practices. The aim is to enact positive change in the world - one stitch at a time! Sara Corbett, the founder of the London based Collective hosted a workshop for us.

The focus of the workshop was 'The Jigsaw Project', a campaign launched by The Craftivist Collective in support of Save the Children's Race Against Hunger.

We were each given a craft kit and together made jigsaw pieces, stitched with provocative and encouraging messages to show solidarity with people around the world wanting a world where no one goes to bed hungry and children can fulfil their potential. The final pieces were used to as part of a giant art installation to raise awareness of the issues of world hunger and injustice.
It was so inspiring to meet Sarah and see how she has dedicated her life to the cause. The final, completed jigsaw was spectacular, thousands of people from around the world contributed. It felt fantastic to be a part of this project #ImAPiece



Vintage Vibes: Lindy Hop
We got our waists a wigglin' and toes a tappin' with Manchester Lindy. For those that aren't familiar with the dance craze, Lindy Hop originates from the Swing Era of the 1920s to 1940's. To really get us in the spirit of a bygone age, the dress code was vintage, anything from the 1920s to 1950s. We had so much fun!

Continuing our vintage theme, make-up artist Bethany Jane Davies joined us and demonstrated how to recreate the lost glamour of decades gone by. Bethany was personally trained by Versace's head stylist and has an in-depth knowledge of hair and make-up styles from the 1920s through to the 1960s. She created two looks: a 1930s Hollywood screen starlet and a 1950's pin-up pout.

My time as the W.I president took me to fantastic places and I was lucky enough to meet some seriously interesting characters. All of these experiences inspired me to create my blog LedByLucy, driven by my love of meeting new people and sharing stories with them.

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Dress to Impress or Not!

June 23, 2015, 8:57 am

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When I first started public speaking I was, understandably nervous. I had a story to tell and generous kind people gave me the chance to tell it. However, I was a novice at the whole etiquette of public speaking and I made a number of mistakes purely through lack of knowledge.

I thought that sharing some of my costume disasters might save any of you budding speakers from the embarrassment I experienced!

We have all heard the phrase, "First impressions count" but you may not realise just how important those first impressions are. Human beings make a judgement about each other within five seconds of meeting. An audience will process how you look and sound the moment you walk onto the stage.

(picture permission courtesy of sarah vitale)

How NOT to impress with dress

Wearing my flatteringly beautiful but toweringly high fashion heels on stage for one event was a very, very painful experience. Half an hour into my talk and my feet were killing me. I was also gingerly moving around the stage for fear of the ultimate mortification of falling over. Following the speech I had an agonizing further hour of mingling with the guests. This was only made possible by taking pain killers and smiling grimly through the pain I vowed never to wear such high heels on stage again.

Lesson take away- wear a much lower heel on stage. With flat shoes you risk skidding on the floor (unless they have tread) and high heels hurt!

Glamorous can be noisy

I once wore a lovely gold necklace that reached to my waist. It set my outfit off perfectly but I had forgotten about the microphone. As I moved around the stage every clank and sound the necklace made was picked up by the microphone. It sounded like a scene from Cool Hand Luke and I was part of the chain gang.

My next accessory disaster was with a lovely pair of dangly earrings. They too turned out to have their own musical sound, plus one got tangled up in the head microphone, literally stuck. It was no mean feat to continue speaking while trying to extricate the earring from the mic without damaging the earring, the mic or my earlobe!

Lesson take away - jewellery should be discreet, understated and kept under control.

Microphone management

Technology has come a long way for speakers on stage. You are not often likely to be holding a microphone any more - it is going to be discreetly attached to you. Discreetly, oh dear! I once turned up to an event dressed in a simple, elegant dress and was confronted by a rather handsome young man who was supposed to "mic me up". This meant him trying to get the mic lead down, and then up, my dress! I eventually had to retire to the ladies loo to undo the entire dress and place the wire myself.

Lesson take away - look at your speaking outfit- where is the microphone going to be attached- change outfit if required!

Real life lessons can be laughed at afterwards but at the time the embarrassment of being incorrectly dressed for an important function can ruin the event. Public speaking can be nerve wracking and the last thing you need is to feel less than confident about how you look. This does not mean you have to be a fashion model or dressed head to toe in Versace. The audience are there to hear your message, to be inspired by your passion. What you need to ensure is that your appearance does not distract from your speech.

I have covered some do's and don'ts of creating good first impressions when speaking in this weeks' blog post on my site."First Impressions Count"

I would love to hear of any costume disaster you have learned from. Do leave a comment below.

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Let's Just Be Honest About How Our Clothes Are Made

June 23, 2015, 9:04 am

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Is it fashionable to care about how the fashion you're choosing to wear is made?

To date six million people have viewed the video on a 2 Euro t-shirt social experiment released two years after the devastating collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh. A number of household brands have contributed $21.5m to the fund set up to give compensation to victims and their families.

Earlier this year millions of people participated in "Fashion Revolution" Day seeking more transparency and traceability in the global apparel industry.

But it is our own insatiable appetite for inexpensive clothing, coupled with lax government regulation which encourages retailers and brands to turn to low-income countries for low-cost labour?

I believe that the global apparel industry can lead change. If companies know how and where their products are made, they can take the steps needed to create fair and safe conditions for workers worldwide.

With their purchasing power, they can become a force for good.

A few facts on the apparel industry reveal an alarming picture:

Workers in the garment industry earn some of the lowest wages in the world. For example, the monthly minimum wage for unskilled garment workers in Sri Lanka and Bangladesh is around EUR 70; while Cambodia and Pakistan it is around EUR 106, significantly less than the lowest relevant minimum wage in China (approximately EUR 156) or the lowest average minimum wage within the European Union (Bulgaria, EUR 187).

In such countries, garment production is often the first formal employment for rural men and women. Especially for women, who make up about 80% of the workforce, the apparel industry offers a chance to step out of abject rural poverty; but this is not without significant risk to their health and even their lives. The Supplier Ethical Data Exchange (SEDEX) recently indicated that 52% of the issues raised in their global audits over the past two years were related to health and safety.

Yet apparel powers the economies of many countries. In Bangladesh, it accounts for 79% of their total exports, in Cambodia 52%, and in Sri Lanka 43%. What incentives, then, do countries have to change the status quo?

The challenge is that the current actors - governments, business, civil society, and customers - don't yet feel the urgency to change. There have been some notable industry-wide initiatives, such as the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, which have been able to vastly improve the fire and building safety in Bangladesh. However, as long as the fashion industry continues to depend on opaque supply chains, overall working conditions will not change.

This is where transparency and traceability come in. With information comes accountability. We see this already with the example of the ILO's Better Factories programme in Cambodia, where an online transparency database is resulting in swifter responses by factories to compliance issues. We are inspired by the many smaller brands enabling full traceability back to the farmer in the field via QR codes. And we applaud the efforts of the non-governmental organisation, Verité, who is helping companies to better understand how to create positive benefits for workers across their supply chains - starting with transparency.

C&A Foundation is contributing to this effort by funding many initiatives that have the potential to drive change through greater transparency. Through our partnerships with both LaborVoices and Labor Link, we are working to empower workers to give direct feedback on working conditions.

We're collaborating with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, which represents over 40% of the apparel industry, to strengthen the tools which help companies better measure and therefore, manage their sustainability activities. Together with MADE-BY and the Responsible Sourcing Network, we're exploring market-driven initiative to ensure that cotton in the supply chain was not harvested with forced labour.

We're also launching an effort - with six other brands and sustainability partners - to create more transparency and traceability in the organic cotton sector.

But this is a monumental task. It requires a monumental, collaborative effort. Each and every stakeholder - brands, retailers, NGOs, donors, governments, international organisations - has a significant role to play. Together they hold the power to transform the lives and livelihoods of the millions who're touched by the industry.

And we must not forget who holds the most power in this equation.

Every time we, as customers, make a purchase decision, we are also making a production decision.

-- This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.

The Man Bag Dilemma

June 24, 2015, 3:29 am

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So, given that iPHONEs, Kindles, laptops et al are considered essential daily items along with wallets and keys - will man bags ever really be a thing? Or, are they, like David Beckham and sarongs - an unworkable idea that is guaranteed to make the average man on the street look like a bit of a tit?

Man bags are not a man thing

"Man bags are a woman thing. Designed by women and bought by women because they have run out of present ideas," my friend Roy says. "They are laughed at by 80% of men. The other 20% only don't laugh because they have been forced by their wife to use one themselves." Harsh? Fair? But Roy is a daily commuter from Cambridgeshire to London, in a prime position to observe men and their carrying needs and habits. But maybe he's overdosed on other people's bags. Perhaps another perspective might offer a kinder view...?

Under what circumstances am I carrying that much stuff?

"There is absolutely no justification for a man ever carrying a bag," My colleague Updesh e-mails, ranting from Japan. "That's why men have pockets in their clothes. I travel the world with a phone, passport and wallet all of which go in pockets. I don't even need a jacket."

Comments fly in from everywhere. "My rucksack fulfils all my carrying needs," one friend says defensively. One man admits to buying a leather satchel. "I was complimented on it too." Who by - a man? "No, a woman."

Sports bags and rucksacks are apparently acceptable because they have "a manly strap" plus they are a bag that "You can carry a laptop, a gun, a pair of football boots or a drill in. It will never have hair product in it."

But Chewbacca had one. So did Indiana Jones...

They can't be all bad. Is it in the name? Is 'man bag' sounding a bit too like 'guy liner'? "The name doesn't help," One friend grudgingly admitted. "When I hear bag, I hear purse. When I hear purse I think - women and shopping." He shudders.

OK, but in the age of dads sharing childcare, etc. men do need to carry stuff - so we need bags that are practical BUT still gives them the feeling that they are capable of turning up in the wilderness and building a city with their bare hands. What is the answer?

"Focus on function," says Jennifer Hamley, a designer from Bristol whose unisex bag won in the Stand Out and Look Great for Work category and the fan's favourite at http://www.instyle.com at the Independent Handbag Designer Awards in New York last week. Jen's satchel in soft leather is highly functional - and includes a Swiss army knife, a bottle opener, a laptop sleeve, phone charger, tote bag included for extra shopping - and has the all important manly strap.

"I think for a man bag to work they have to be worn with confidence," says Jen. "I think men often tend to carry a bag as they carry a bunch of flowers they have bought for their mum - awkwardly, as if they are about to either drop them or drag them on the floor. Buy one with the functionality you need, work out how it looks and feels best on you, and don't look back. Style it out, boys."

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In Defence of Doing Your Makeup on the Tube

June 24, 2015, 9:45 am

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As a real person with a real job, I know it's imperative I find some way to hide my rampant unprofessionalism and, for me, that means turning up to work with polished skin and perfect brows.

I just don't want to get up any earlier to do it...

We can't all be blessed with the Kardashian Khromosomes or plucked from the same exquisite gene pool as Victoria's Secret models, so sometimes I like to draw on myself to feel better. But should that compromise my precious sleeping time?

I swear those extra few minutes in bed in the mornings make a difference and I'm not giving them up to "look more normal" or "not offend the people around me".

But in all seriousness, if I show up somewhere makeup-free you can bet someone will ask if I'm tired, or ill, or even just not recognise me at all.

To put things in perspective, I once showed up bare-faced to a uni lecture and was asked if I was in the right class. I had been, all year.

Concealing on the subway! With a @flowerbeauty tester roller ball concealer that comes out January 2015 @walmart #commuterbeauty

A photo posted by Drew Barrymore (@drewbarrymore) on Jun 20, 2014 at 10:15am PDT

"No of course I didn't wake up in a bin three hours ago, I'm wearing concealer, idiots!"


Luckily, there is a middle ground, and you're probably sitting on it. Public transport.

According to the national office, the average UK commute is 54 minutes, with London dwellers facing 74 minutes of unadulterated sweaty-armpits-in-your-face-hell.

That's 74 whole minutes I could potentially not be conscious enough to comprehend the crushing responsibilities of adulthood.

And honestly, how else am I going to pass the time?

I'm on Tinder. I'm an X-factor judge with RSI. "It's a no from me". YOU: a gap year student in a v-neck vest with a drugged up tiger. ME: giving up all hope, roaming the streets like a female Joey Tribbiani. "Hot guy? Hot guy?", I call. There is no answer. There'll never be an answer. Drowned in a sea of epic banter and snowboarding photos.

No thanks. And I firmly believe anyone playing games on their phone is basically just a giant baby disguised as a functioning person.

The trouble is, applying makeup on the tube is apparently really rude. *cue one billion eye rolls*

According to modern manners experts Debretts, "applying make-up on public transport can jeopardise that all-important first impression and make you appear disorganised."

This may be true. While it does show you completely care about the opinion of everyone at your chosen destination, it also shows a wild disregard for the shits given by everyone else on the train.

I'm genuinely super sorry to that guy I spilt my loose powder all over that one time, but it was kind of his fault for sitting with his legs so far apart (your-ex wife was right, it's not that big).

A photo posted by Drew Barrymore (@drewbarrymore) on Nov 4, 2014 at 10:11am PST

OK, I'm not this crazy


But there's also another side...

Amidst the stares of disgust are some more stares as well. Stares of admiration (and not just the nod of solidarity you shoot at the woman doing her makeup across from you).

It takes a certain level of expertise to apply a smoothly drawn flick of liquid eyeliner in a moving carriage, so much so that I once got a ROUND OF APPLAUSE from a packed table on a London to Brighton Southern Service.

One man actually leant over to tell me what a stellar job I'd done, although that may have been a thinly veiled way of telling me how terrible I look without makeup.

The point is, it's a skill. A talent. It's a journey, in more ways than one. After enough practice I can now apply my makeup absolutely anywhere.

So really, it just boils down to asking some serious questions. Do you want to wake up earlier? Do you really care if everyone thinks you're insane? What day is it and who is that guy on your sofa?

The answer of course, is probably no. Also it's Wednesday, get it together.

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The Imposters in the Aisles - Why It's Easy to Be Misled by Organic Shampoo

June 25, 2015, 4:07 am

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The number of beautiful, botanically-dressed products tempting your tresses on supermarket shelves might make you think that the shampoo industry is a nirvana of pure, healthy products.



This trend towards a desire for more natural body and hair care is a reflection of our increasing appetite for all things organic as evidence mounts that natural products provide effective solutions that decrease toxic stresses on our body and the planet.

In the UK alone there were a record 5500 searches on Google last month for 'organic shampoo'.

But beware of what you buy, particularly when it comes to organic. Unlike food, there's no legal requirement for shampoo and other toiletries to be independently certified as organic.

Brands can use a whiff of organic essential oil and all the usual shampoo chemicals and still call it organic. This loophole makes it all too easy for brands to 'green-wash' consumers with hair and body care that isn't as natural or organic as it looks.

For example, one high street health chain sells a range of shampoos that has Organic in its brand name, but doesn't actually say how much of the total product is organic. There's no certification, so no independent factory audit or formulation checks that would give the consumer any real guarantee that the ingredients are as organic, non-toxic or GM-free as the brand claims.

In fact, the brand would be within its rights to use just 1% organic ingredients. But would a consumer want to pay the same for a shampoo that was 1% organic compared to one that was 50% or more? Unlikely.

The inclusion of several organic ingredients isn't necessarily an indication that the rest of the shampoo has a clean slate either. Another widely available brand, let's call it Acme Organics, claims to use some organic plant extracts, but other ingredients wouldn't pass organic certification standards: Acme Organics uses the foam-booster Cocamide DEA, which is classified by the EWG as a moderate to high hazard due to its toxicity profile.

Shampoo is one of the trickiest products to formulate naturally, so even brands that have some certified organic products might not have certified their shampoos.

For example, one brand which has its skin care approved by French organic certifier Ecocert, has opted out of certification for its shampoo products - which contain the film-forming ingredients Acrylates Copolymer and Polyquaternium-7.

Synthetic film formers are not allowed in certified organic products because of concerns over skin sensitivity (and reproductive and eco toxicity in the case of quaternium compounds).

This 'halo effect' of partially certifying a range organic, and making the brand look more organic than it really is, makes life very confusing for the consumer. Not to mention unfair as we buy into a brand believing that we are paying extra for something purer, greener and healthier.

There are brands that produce real organic shampoo which is certified to the same rigorous standards as organic food. To find them, there's no substitute for scrutinising the label for a genuine certification logo (like the Soil Association one, below) if you want to be sure that you're getting your money's worth, and you've not just washed your hair in, well, a lot of green goo.



References
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701516/COCAMIDE_DEA/
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/705124/POLYQUATERNIUM-7/
Contact Dermatitis, October 2007, pages 242-247

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Chanel: The Epitome of Style

June 26, 2015, 2:47 am

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There is something impeccably beautiful about this French high fashion house; it is like no other. Every single Chanel piece is expertly crafted, exuding timelessness, elegance and femininity. Almost a century later, the luxury brand still captures Gabrielle Chanel's vision, "Chanel is above all a style. Fashion passes, style remains." The little black dress, tweed suit, quilted handbag with gold chain, costume pearls, two-tone pumps and rouge lipstick remain as iconic as they did in the 1900's, seamlessly managing to embody a contemporary edge. Her use of clean lines, a monochrome palette and traditional fabrics: tweed, wool, silk, jersey, cotton and leather, remain at the forefront of Chanel's designs, whilst incorporating modernity through accents of colour, statement embellishments, new cuts and different textures.

"Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance." - Gabrielle Chanel

Gabrielle Chanel's ability to create functional, simplistic, yet chic garments is unprecedented. She stripped back the excessive decoration, frills and fuss and created well-constructed staple pieces, namely the tweed suit and the infamous little black dress. She also revolutionised the typical restrictive 'corseted' silhouette of the time, drawing on masculine influences such as trousers and placing an emphasis on comfort.

"A beautiful dress may look beautiful on a hanger, but that means nothing. It must be seen on the shoulders, with the movement of the arms, the legs, and the waist." - Gabrielle Chanel

In addition to its quintessential classic couture, the interlocking C's boast further desirability through their exclusivity. Chanel is very selective about where its creations can be purchased and through which platforms. Even in today's modern world, the fashion house continues to sell its clothing through its boutiques, choosing not to enter the world of e-commerce, but to promote a tangible, sophisticated and distinctive experience. The luxury brand strives to preserve its bespoke service, whereby consumers can fully indulge in the world of Chanel, engaging their senses: discovering the different textures and feeling and viewing the garments on their skin.

"A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." - Gabrielle Chanel

Chanel's fragrance and beauty collection is no less desirable than its clothing and accessories. The packaging is as flawless, timeless and luxurious as her signature tweed suit. Opulent black lacquered compacts with white and gold monogrammed Chanel logos and clean-cut crystal perfume bottles adorn the beauty counters, the essence of Gabrielle Chanel present in every single one. The most iconic of them all is Chanel No.5, one of the bestselling perfumes of all time. 95 years on and its design still remains almost untouched in its rectangular shaped translucent glass bottle with amber coloured liquid and black and white label. Her practical, simplistic, avant-garde approach to fashion, uninhibited by the structured bodice, is reflected in the shape of the bottle. Her strength and determination to change the face of style resonates in the label, being the first designer to brand perfume with her own name. Furthermore, Gabrielle Chanel was the first to use synthetic ingredients in fragrance, creating a longer lasting, stable, unique and intense scent.

Unquestionably, Gabrielle Chanel is the most influential designer to have graced the fashion world.

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