United Kingdom

© Fashion and Textiles Museum

I love to visit the Fashion and Textiles Museum. Not only is it wonderfully inspiring with the best museum shop but it is also close to Borough Market - a wonderful place to buy food from artisan makers. The Museum is a centre for contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery in London. Founded by iconic British designer Zandra Rhodes, the centre showcases a programme of exhibitions as well as the Academy which runs courses for creative students and businesses. As well as a very friendly cafe, there is the most wonderful gift shop - always good for intriguing presents for you fashionista friends

© Juliet Bernard

This latest exhibition is one that I have wanted to visit for a while and was excited to see work from famous designers as well as a room dedicated to the incredible talent that our world-renowned knitwear courses produce. It takes you from the functional nature of knits (machine and frame as well as hand knits) right through to catwalk extravaganza.

© Michael Cockerham

The Curators have been very careful to reflect knitwear's place in our social landscape over the last 100 or so years, where knitting was originally done out of necessity (socks, waistcoats etc) to keep warm and build up layers in cold Victorian and Edwardian houses, and in times of austerity and war where every last scrap of yarn would be used up, to knitwear as a luxury item at home of the world's catwalks.

It celebrates the emergence of the technology to produce fine knitted fabrics or jerseys which revolutionised fashion; in the 1920s drape was essential to 'the look' and was achieved best by knitwear often in the very new man-made fibres; in the 1940s and 50s knitwear allowed garments to become clingy and close-fitting often embellished with beads and crystals; and the space age trends of the 1960s from designers like Courrèges could only have been achieved in jersey knitted fabrics. Proof, if it was needed, of knitwear's enduring place in our wardrobe.

© Michael Cockerham

So what about hand knitting? The exhibition looks at our knitted heritage with a collection of Fair Isle jumpers and also some of the folklore inspired designs from likes of Schiaparelli. Moving on to more recent times the humorous outsized garments from Fiorucci and the mohair punk garments from Seditionaries show more of the hand knit side of fashion. Although knitwear in general fascinates me I would have loved to have seen more about hand knits.

My personal highlight from the show was a collection of knitted swimming costumes - every child of the 60s worst nightmare - or maybe it was the Edwardian waistcoats. Definitely an exhibition worth visiting.

Knitwear from Chanel to Westwood continues until 18th January and the 150 garments are taken from the personal collection of Mark and Cleo Butterfield.

By Ruby Norris

As the cold weather starts to bite it's easy to choose comfort over style and lose track of the season's trends. With fur-lined parkas, cosy knitted sweaters and chic rollnecks a-plenty, Vogue.fr have all the solutions to your winter wardrobe woes as we round up some of the hottest Fall fashions for 2014.

Photo credit: Dan Roberts for Vogue Paris

Starting with a classic, worn buttoned-up to the neck, open over a plain t-shirt or tied around the waist, the checked shirt is a versatile wardrobe essential. Resonate grunge vibes in deep red plaid or keep it chic and simple in black and white checks. Layer with a chunky knitted sweater for cosy winter evenings without compromising your style credentials.

After we saw khaki return to the runway for Spring/Summer 2015, taking centre stage with sexy military-inspired silhouettes at Marc Jacobs and transporting us to an Out of Africa safari at Ralph Lauren, the parka is making a comeback this Fall. Fur-lined and fully waterproofed, it's the essential statement jacket to battle the elements and take you through to Spring in style.

If parkas aren't your thing, minimalist, oversized coats are also taking the spotlight this season, as we mirror the men and turn in on the tomboy trend. Opting for three-quarter length pieces and toying with volumes, pair with a chic roll-neck and an ultra-slim gold watch for extra style points and a touch of glamour.

As the festive season fast approaches, you can't go far wrong with a statement red lip. This year, however, the beauty brands are redefining our perceptions of cosmetics with a new generation of lip lacquers, boasting all the color of a lipstick, softness of a balm and an ultra-glossy shine. To finish, think Roy Lichtenstein meets comic-book couture and tie your look together with a playful cartoon clutch bag, taking you seamlessly from day to night as the party season hits full swing.

Still stuck for Inspiration? We've pooled together our favourite looks for a Fall fashion starter pack. You can thank us later.

For almost ten years now, skinny jeans have had a sartorial strangle hold on our wardrobes. Despite the fashion press declaring the style 'dead' on a regular basis, we continue to favour the skinny over all other styles. But given the fickle nature of fashion, why has this particular jean stood the test of time? What's the secret to its staying power?

The skinny silhouette has fallen in and out of vogue over the centuries, and the current preference for a narrower style jean has many possible points of origin. In the late 1970s it was adopted by punks, who wore skinny, bondage styles as part of their anti-establishment 'uniform'. Later, in 2003, Hedi Slimane sent his models down the Dior Homme catwalk in a strictly slimmed down silhouette, which quickly became the look du jour among the fashion cognoscenti. This famously prompted Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Chanel, to slim down quite dramatically so that he could squeeze himself into a pair of Slimane's much sought after skinny trousers!

But the skinny jean as we know it today probably first entered the public consciousness back in 2005, courtesy of a London based denim label and a certain Ms Moss. Superfine, launched in 2003, was one of the first brands to pioneer the skinny jean, and when Kate was snapped sporting a pair several years later, the rest, as they say, is history.

Today skinnies are worn by everyone, from pre-teens to pensioners and the fashion forward to purely functional dressers. And we all wear them quite differently. At one time, they may have had an air of rebellion about them, especially given their punk associations, but they're now just as likely to feature in the wardrobes of the suburban as the subversive.

The introduction of different fabrics and finishes has helped to maintain our interest in the skinny style. Leather, coloured and printed pairs have all made an appearance over the years. But I think that one of the main reasons for their longevity lies in the fact that the basic denim skinny has essentially become a wardrobe staple, providing us with a blank canvas for whatever we decide to pair with them. Simply put, the once high fashion skinny jean can now quite possibly be regarded as a non-fashion item.

It's high waisted, wide legged jeans that are currently trending, worn by those on the cutting edge of fashion who are keen to make a style statement. But despite the diktats of certain designers, I know I am one of many who still favour a slimmer silhouette. From a personal point of view, it suits my frame. Wide legged jeans, as far as I'm concerned, fall into the 'oversize' camp, a look currently beloved of the style set but one that I avoid at all costs - the clothes simply swamp me! I'm also short waisted, so higher waisted styles are a no-no too.

If, unlike me, you have the body to carry off this ultra fashionable style, the next question you need to ask yourself is "Will they slip seamlessly into my wardrobe?" The high waisted flare is certainly no 'blank canvas'. This month's Vogue dubs it "...one of the new season's trickiest trends" and I've already spotted a slew of "How to wear..." guides in other glossies.

Fashion thrives, and indeed survives, on the back of the next big thing, and despite my musings I wouldn't have it any other way. But while a nudge in a new direction is something I support wholeheartedly, I don't think this should mean that past seasons' styles simply be declared passé as a matter of course. In this instance at least, we're standing steadfast in our skinnies!

But for how much longer can the skinny jean reign supreme? The form-fitting style is still favoured by Hedi Slimane, who is now creative director at Saint Laurent. Since taking the helm at the revered French fashion house, his catwalk collections have divided critical opinion but been embraced by consumers, which speaks volumes. I get the feeling that we won't be relinquishing our skinnies until we're good and ready...

Reading that Belinda Earl, the style director of Marks and Spencer, says that women should ditch their uniform power dressing suits in favour of more comfortable attire has made me reflect on my penchant for comfortable footwear, shoes and sandals that enable me to move quickly from one place to the next. Perhaps I'm not so out of touch after all!

Like many ladies, I own a rather lovely collection of stylish footwear; boots, shoes, sandals, but mine are all safely stored away in their original boxes in my closet. I also have many lovely, stylish friends for whom fabulous shoes are an integral part of the way they dress.

Why is it then that for me killer heels are the last thing on my mind, often shoved at the bottom of my handbag to be changed into once I arrive at a venue, but then usually forgotten about until it's time to go home?

I'm not the only busy person in my group. Many of my friends have family commitments, are self-employed, have various demands on their time. And yet they manage to arrive at a lunchtime or evening date looking super-cool, teetering along on their elegant heels.

I refuse to consider that it's to do with age either! I've not changed my choice of footwear because I've hit yet another decade. Neither have I moved into support bandages, baggy cardigans and carpet slippers in a desire descend comfortably into decrepitude.

Perhaps I'm a rebel, refusing to conform to what I feel is the stereotypical business woman image of sharp suits and killer heels. It's true that since I left the blue-chip business world I've not needed to power dress like I used to; I'm not as 'corporate'.

As a counsellor and hypnotherapist my personal, business and media appointments all require me to be smart, presentable, but not intimidating. With that in mind I always endeavour to look professional, with makeup, jewellery, smart clothes and flat shoes or sandals.

Is it time to analyse my motivation? Do I feel that perhaps my choice of footwear defines me and how I'll be perceived? Certainly I know that we all make decisions about the people we meet within a matter of seconds, often without fully appreciating the instinctive vetting process that we automatically apply.

We all assess each other's clothing, stance, attitude, body language as soon as we meet and with that information we determine how we're going to proceed with the interaction. Is it going to be friendly, cautious, effusive, professional? Of course, this initial assessment is then modified and adapted as the relationship develops and we get to know each other better.

As I often see clients at my home it's important that I take care to look professional whilst putting people at their ease. Choosing to wear comfortable shoes can feel relaxed and less formal. On the occasions when I run courses or do media work I often have to walk a distance to the centre or studio so comfortable flat shoes are often a practical decision.

Perhaps I need to set out earlier and arrive in good time so that I can start to wear my lovely unworn shoes. Or maybe it's time to make more of an effort in certain circumstances so that I up my game and look more chic. It's certainly time to consider dusting off my killer heels!

Described as being "modern and sleek as a skyscraper" Elsa Schiaparelli was a tour-de-force in her day. A fashion designer extraordinaire, who pioneered avant-garde fashion, from knitwear to couture, and collaborated with some of the greatest creative minds of the 20th century, including Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dali and Christian Berard.

A young Schiaparelli taking in the delights of the seaside in 1915, sporting a dress of her own design. Even as young woman Schiaparelli's creativity was given an outlet. Her flare for design is very clear to see in this photo, fashioned in the popular Parisian style of the time.

In the first publication of a book by her granddaughter Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson, with a forword by the master of couture Hubert de Givenchy - Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album is a magnificent and thoroughly delectable collection of pristine photos and private correspondences, along with extracts from Schiaparelli's memoir.

A mature Schiaparelli with her long time friend, the Surrealist Salvador Dali. It was Dali who proved a huge influence for Schiaparelli, his bizarre and dream like creations ignited a flurry of excitement. Schiaparelli's famous "lobster dress" being the prime example.

The book takes us back to a world of sepia tinged glamour, when women were ladies and men were gentleman, the sweet smell of elegant Gitanes and Chanel No. 5 emanates from every page. Starting off with Schiaparelli's childhood and then charting her rise as a creative doyenne.

Born in 1895 to a family of Italian aristocrats and academics, Schiaparelli's upbringing was one where knowledge was highly regarded, her father Celestino Schiaparelli being dean of the University of Rome, her uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli a renowned astronomer and her father's cousin a lauded Egyptologist.

One of Schiaparelli's gowns modeled during a show. It was at this stage in her career that the Surrealist influence began to recede from Schiaparelli's designs, and the more ethereal elements started to take centre stage.

Whilst studying philosophy at the University of Rome, she published a compendium of sensual poems, which sent her socially conservative family into a frenzied panic of shock and disgust, so much so she was sent to a convent, where if she hadn't gone on hunger strike she would have stayed. After escaping to London, and gaining a job as a nanny, Schiaparelli's creativity began to blossom.

Schiaparelli during a dinner with family. As expected, Schiaparelli was the ever unconventional mother.

A quote from her granddaughter on the poems reads - "To the family the book came as a bombshell. The newspapers got very busy. Extracts from the poems were reproduced all over Italy, even abroad. Every critic chose a different one. Schiap's father considered the whole thing a terrible disgrace and would not read the book."

Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album is a treasure. With stunning stylised images abound and beautiful, insightful chapters from her granddaughter, the book sheds light on the personal world of this fashionable firebrand. Lifting the lid on a woman changed the face of fashion.

Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album by Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson, Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy is published by Double-Barrelled Books.

There are many things on this planet that irritate me. People who chew with their mouths open, casual sexism, that annoying talking sloth from Ice Age, people that don't move down the carriage when you are trying to herd like cattle on to the train in the morning. Overall, the list of things that ignite that tiny ball of fury in my belly is ongoing.

However, a topic that can really get both me and the nation ranting is big fat fashion faux pas. You know it, when you catch someone wearing socks with sandals, sporting sunglasses indoors or jogging in jeggings at the gym... and there is that teeny tiny part of you that just wants to punch them in the neck.

With the winter months fast approaching these clothing blunders are spreading faster than Kim Kardashion's robust buttocks. One fine example is gilet a (what a GREAT invention for when you want to wear a hoody, but can't quite fit it under your coat) worn with a short sleeved t-shirt. They are fashioned for an extra layer of warmth in the depths of winter - THINK ABOUT YOUR ARMS PEOPLE.

So with this in mind, a recent New Look event filled with budding fashion students seemed the perfect setting to find out what fashion styles REALLY grind your gears. Here are the results... SPOILER ALERT: if you're an avid Croc wearer, I'd click off this now.

It's an exhibition that feeds the fashion lover with so much: original sketches, films, paintings and the history that was behind all of the most iconic trends and style movements. 'Women Fashion Power' is the fantastic show at the Design Museum (from 29th October to 26th April 2015) where the modern white space has been carefully architected by world-renowned designer Zaha Hadid. On arrival you move through corsets, shoes and dresses that map the story of fashion: from Cleopatra to Michelle Obama via Twiggy and Marlene Dietrich. I first heard about the (then upcoming) exhibition when I interviewed the museum's curator in September; she talked how the exhibition's aim was to show the language of clothes and power and how the two have been closely interlinked since Adam & Eve.

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Twiggy Photo Credit: Design Museum Website

As we made our way around, passing through Joan of Arc, the Suffragettes and Woodstock, I couldn't believe how much a woman's wardrobe and role in society has changed in the very short history of the past 150 years: women only upgraded from their waist-wasping corsets to a bra in 1912, they were not allowed to vote until 1918 and amazingly Coco Chanel was the first women to wear trousers openly in 1920s: how times have changed.

As a stylist, I know that where there is power there is often someone behind-the-scenes working to make sure the First Lady, CEO or Princess is wearing the appropriate style uniform. One area I particularly loved was where contemporary women have contributed a favourite outfit as well as their personal style philosophy, including Net-a-Porter's Natalie Massenet MBE, Newsnight's Kirsty Wark & Princess Charlene of Monaco. From a Chanel jacket to Jimmy Choo heels or a bespoke Alaia dress, the message that ran throughout all of their choices was the importance of feeling confident, comfortable and to a point proud, whether it was a day-to-day outfit or something they had worn to the Queens honours.

Vivienne Westwood Photo Credit: Design Museum Website

Whether you are interested in fashion, feminism or want to see some iconic pieces of clothing in the flesh, Women Fashion Power is an absolute must-see, for more info click through to the Design Museum website.

Imagine every summer sailing around the Mediterranean. On your own yacht. With your own crew. You wear flowing Roberto Cavalli maxi dresses over Triangl bikinis and Tom Ford sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glaring sun, the heat of which beats down on your golden body from high in the clear blue sky. You sail across sparkling blue waters eating the freshest of fruit and drinking the best wine, served by staff in starched white uniforms. Every day, you laugh and gossip with the sea breeze whipping your hair into a salty "mess", the child-like freckles across your nose complementing your smiling eyes. Each evening, you dock at various hot spots, where you enjoy fine food in top restaurants before sleeping in a bed made up of the finest Egyptian cotton sheets and fat, feather-filled pillows only to wake up the next morning to do it all over again. All. Summer. Long.

Okay, you can wake up now. For most of us, instead of spending week after week on a multimillion pound yacht, we take low key, self-catering package holidays for one or two weeks a year (if we're lucky). For us, this life, the life of the über-wealthy, is but a dream, a fantasy that we will never experience because it's completely and utterly beyond reach, almost beyond imagining....

But there is a place, a tiny little sliver of planet Earth that lets us experience the lives of the rich and famous without feeling completely out of place. It's a spot where the jet set goes to see and be seen, but which is also a viewing platform for tourists, who watch the globetrotting peacocks in their natural habitat without fear of being snubbed. That place is Monaco.

I visited Monaco at the end of this summer for two nights, living the life of the rich and famous for 48 short but sweet hours. I arrived at Nice airport from Edinburgh (by Easyjet, ironically) and was transferred to Monaco by helicopter courtesy of Heli Air Monaco. This experience alone was enough to demonstrate the vast difference in worlds; to take a chauffeur driven car to the helipad before climbing into the tiny aircraft (with just four other ladies and our very own, very cool pilot) was nothing short of fabulous and sure beats an hour long drive in a hired Fiat Punto with no air-con.

On arrival in Monaco, I stepped out of the chopper and into another chauffeur-driven car, which took me to the famous Hotel Metropole Monte Carlo (a discreet five star luxury hotel favoured by celebrities including Beyoncé). Tucked away behind high stone walls and green hedges, the driveway was lined with cars worth hundreds of thousands of pounds - cars which are regularly parked (by their attention seeking owners) outside the famous casino for tourists to take photos - and into a reception area which I can only describe as out-of-this-world. The fragrance that greeted me - no, enveloped me - instantly seduced me: if the air smelled so good, I could only imagine how good the rest would be. Imagine going through life breathing "Ambre du Nepal" scented oxygen.

The lounge at the hotel made it clear why the über rich like to be seen; the surroundings were stunning, the decor straight out of a glossy interiors magazine, and thus an excellent backdrop to their perfectly pressed chinos and Tod's loafers. A huge tapestry hung from the back wall, the low seating neutral yet luxurious in shades of cream and gold, a giant golden frame holding only fresh flowers the statement centrepiece of the room. Super stylish staff in chic black uniforms delivered cappuccinos in white china cups (and saucers) to men in made-to-measure suits, and flutes of champagne to the ladies, all of whom had Bvlgari sunglasses atop glossy blow dries, their manicured nails tracing the stitching on their Hermes handbags as they sipped Veuve Clicquot, glancing around the room. It's not only the lounge at Hotel Metropole that is favoured as a personal exhibition centre for the rich "peacocks"; the hotel's restaurants are local hotspots, while the pool and bar, Odyssey (designed by King-of-Fashion Karl Lagerfeld), is equally as favourable an enclosure thanks to the chic monochrome decor and supermodel-esque staff.

The rest of Monaco is a money-fuelled playground. The marina, full of luxury yachts, glistens in the sunlight; the windows of Prada and Chanel and DvF mirror what the peacocks wear (current season, naturally); the casino stands proudly, a must-see for tourists but a regular haunt for the wealthy, and, of course, then there is the yacht club. At over sixty years old but housed in a brand new building which opened in June this year, the Yacht Club de Monaco houses spaces such as a ballroom, a swimming pool and terrace, a library, a fitness room and five spacious 'cabins' for guests on stopovers. Just in case their super yacht is at full capacity. The club is designed to reflect the structure and inside of a yacht, with white framework and hardwood flooring. The interior is beautiful, with cream leather seating, polished wooden flooring, and bold details such as the circular bar and a grand piano, while the yachting memorabilia reminds members of the club's history. Non-members aren't permitted access, but a trip to Monaco's old town and palace are equally as impressive, albeit in a slightly less exclusive manner.

As a tourist playing the game of the rich and famous, my view of Monaco remains as that of a tourist: it's a gorgeous gem off the coast of the Mediterranean with a split personality. One half is peaceful and pretty with its old town, marina and history, while the other half is money, money, money. The rich bring the glamour, while the tourists bring real life - a good balance - and yet one encourages the other; without the rich, would Monaco have such good tourism? Likewise, without visitors to see them, would the rich still go? Who knows...? Despite being a small bubble all on its own, Monaco reflects the world we do live in, with its wealth and poverty and everything in between - it's just that, in Monaco, there is no in between - if there is, you simply fly over it in a helicopter.

In a brief hiatus from the gorgeous spectacle of fashion month, it's also worth looking at those designers who might never show on the catwalk and what their role is in fashion industry. I'm talking about the kind of designer classed as 'independent' or 'boutique'.

Arguably for all but the highest disposable incomes, luxury designers are becoming a rare treat. A Chanel quilted handbag, for example, was $2882 in 2009, five years later it's gone up by 70%. As much discussed, this has a lot to do with ensuring appeal for the phenomenally wealthy across the globe.

In contrast, boutique designers aren't aiming only for the international fraction of one percenters, but a much broader demographic. This means that even by selling just to their domestic market, as long as the price and product is right, they can sell enough to make the business viable. Good news for those fans of the original and aspirational designs of the luxury designer market without the means to acquire them.

Mintel classes the category that boutique designers fall under, premium womenswear, as a £5bn global market, with 6m female shoppers in the UK alone. Premium is defined as fashion relevant to AB demographic, 30-60 year old woman, with high quality production (fabric, fit and design). The giants in this space in the UK are high-street (for example Reiss, Jigsaw) or mail order brands (like Boden), leaving clear room for independent designers who provide alternative original options. In the UK alone there are hundreds of these designers: the antithesis of faceless brands who sell everything from jeans to candles.

While not trying to replicate the time (days, sometimes weeks) or materials (rarefied) it often takes to create a luxury designer piece ready for the catwalk, these boutique designers do have a lot of common ground with the luxury designer world.

One of the key reasons for buying designer fashion is the effort and expertise put into the pieces by the designer and their team. The original boutique designers were local independents selling specialist product direct to customers through their boutiques. Their knowledge covered every minute detail about their pieces, from the provenance of the cashmere fibres to the fit of a particular sleeve. Now digital allows a much larger audience access to these designers, who are in turn able to take advantage of that expertise.

It works both ways: like luxury designers, boutique designers spend a huge amount of time working to understand their customer, to produce collections that are as well targeted and relevant as possible. For example, boutique label Allium B was founded by two sisters: the former Topshop heads of buying and merchandising respectively. They call their target customer "a grown up woman, who is confident with her own style - who knows what suits her and who enjoys discovering new brands that are a little different. We produce slow(er) fashion not fast fashion - clothes designed to be worn and loved for more than one season." Clearly targeted at the AB demographic woman, their most expensive item currently is a silk print day dress for £150.

An example in a different category is Lucy Choi, Jimmy Choo's niece, who having spent years at French Sole, decided to set up her own eponymous shoe label with a similar focus on "affordable luxury". At under £200 for most of her pumps, she again has an eye on a broader market than just the one-percenters.

While not quite at the level of the catwalk pieces, sometimes produced in mere single digits, boutique designers still produce their original designs in small quantities, making the products feel special and enabling consumers to feel unique. This is perhaps the core of what makes boutique designers so different from their price-comparable and often ubiquitous high street counterparts: buying their individualistic designs is still buying into the concept of original designer fashion, just at a different price point.

It is fairly obvious when you look around that freedom of style is no longer exclusively for women. In fact men haven't had as much freedom to dress since Louis XII and men's style evolves and develops in an unparalleled way almost from day to day.

We are part of a generation where there is so much coverage of men's fashion, and regular guys are breaking the mold and social stigma as they become more concerned with looking groomed and fashionable. If you're like me, however, you might find yourself trying to define your style one way or another, but despite the efforts to mix and match, you still remain safely in your comfort zone.

And this is why I believe women have it easier than men when it comes down to fashion.

I envy the freedom of their wardrobe and how many different looks they can pull off. Stores are catering to men who want to experiment with different styles and brands, but men seem more likely to stick to what they know rather than overtly expressing themselves.

Although the fashion stakes are higher for women, to break into the fashion pack as a woman, you really need to break boundaries. However, when it comes to using fashion to express ourselves, successful women can use it as power, they can use style to portray intelligence and even a sense of fun, but even in my trendiest shirt and shoes I don't feel that anyone would look at me twice.

Men are supposed to take 10 seconds to get ready. Why? Because everything goes together: shirts, jumpers and skinny jeans or chinos - et voila: the professional Scandinavian late-twenties hipster reincarnated.

But, I would like more time to get ready in the morning and to spend more time on my look, yet I know that taking ages to get ready when you're a man is not socially acceptable. If my colleagues at Fitbay caught wind that I change more than once before leaving, I'd be a laughing stock.

Similarly, fake-tan, waxed bodies, whitened teeth - the embodiment of extreme metrosexual/spornosexual - is seen as a sign of insecurity, whereas for women self-grooming is seen as the status quo (which of course, is problematic on its own terms).

Are men caught between a rock and a hard place?

If they groom too much they are ridiculed, if they don't groom at all, they're labeled ineligible cavemen ... Women are bombarded with heavily unrealistic beauty standards, but whilst basic grooming for men is no longer seen as optional, it is not considered masculine to discuss these habits.

Men have to appear semi-ironed without looking as though it required too much effort (thanks Becks!). Men are beginning to break away from brand loyalty, and achieving looks set up by celebrities, thanks to socially acceptable male accessories and media norms.

As a man who would consider himself vaguely stylish - i.e. not a walking disaster - with a twist of high street (meaning I have stepped inside both H&M and Forever 21), I do relish the fact that I can get away with more than women can on my "off days". Maybe not being able to talk in detail about grooming without being laughed at is a small price to pay for not being objectified in quite the same way as women.

Style has been an interest for men as long as it has for women, ultimately, fashion comes down to expressing yourself in new styles (I for one am looking forward to a few great deals on Black Friday!) and taking an interest in what you put on in the morning, so guys ... go for it.

Skinny jeans are (if reports are to be believed) on the way out. Really? Then what are you wearing right now? Chances are that for all the talk and bluster about skinny jeans finally sliding from the fashion charts, in practice they are still your go-to jeans, your wardrobe staple, the most versatile piece in your armoury. Looking at the sales at Donna Ida, skinny jeans still account for 80 percent of sales. We're still totally committed to our skinnies (albeit with a few extra rips so they are completely on trend) but skinny nonetheless. So where are the rumours coming from? Is there a directional shift? Will you be back in your flares before the season is out?

IDA Honor Skinny Jeans

The short answer is no. However, your jeans will be ever so slightly morphing into the new skinnies. For SS15, there is a move towards a slightly slouchier and cooler look with the skinny getting a little looser to be worn a little lower on the hips. For IDA this style is a mid-rise relaxed style called Downtown Dazzler, epitomising the laid back, LA vibe for next season. They are not as tight as a skinny nor as loose as a boyfriend, they're almost a girlfriend jean which will look at their best rolled or cuffed with flats, boots, heels, whatever you like.

IDA Downtown Dazzler in Milkshake

J Brand are also marking the change with their new Ellis style which has been christened the 'Stringy' by the press. Not quite a straight and not exactly a skinny either, this is to be worn tighter on the thigh and then just fall straight at the ankle. Go for broke, this new shape is best worn with either high classic points or with converse for running around town.

J Brand Ellis Straight Leg

Frame Denim have nailed this look in the most comfortable, cool and edgy way with their Le Garcon style. A relaxed skinny rather than a full on boyfriend, the denim is ultra-soft and is a little slouchy for a sexier shape. Try the classic black colour for your new go-to jean that you can wear in Winter months.

Frame Denim Le Garcon Boyfriend in Black

The slouchy skinny is only one of the variations of the classic skinny. We now have the ankle crop (think Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday), the ankle skinny (think Rizzo from Grease) and the stack skinny which caters for taller girls and rouches around the ankle for a fresh new look. So don't give up on the skinny, just give it a little space to grow.

Tweet me your thoughts on the new shape #denimdilemmas

Photograph by Vera Wang.

Say the words Vera Wang, and you instantly think about the world of bridal, and the creative genius of the designer who creates the most beautiful wedding dresses. imaginable. Ever since she started her first bridal collection in 1990, the bridal designer has been renowned as the ultimate designer to go to find a couture bridal gown.

She of course created the wedding gown Victoria Beckham wore to her marriage to David in 199 (which I attended when I was a reporter on OK! magazine), and has gone on to design bridal dresses for the likes of Chelsea Clinton, Ivanka Trump and Alicia Keys.

What I think is so clever about Vera Wang and many other of today's designers is their ability to recreate their designs to cater for their changing audience. Years ago, Vera Wang was renowned for creating princess style gowns, but her latest collection, demonstrates that both the bridal industry and Vera Wang herself have moved on enormously. 'Sexy, Sensuous, Skin. The seduction of cleavage, bare arms and legs... Young, cool and beaded.' Not a description normally you would associate with bridal or Vera Wang, but it shows that her latest collection is most definitely aimed at the next generation of fashionable & stylish brides.

. Photograph by Vera Wang. I love the glamour of this light ivory v-neck halter silk crepe gown with double strap detail.

. Photograph by Vera Wang. How cute is this mini dress?

. Photograph by Vera Wang. Isn't this dress with hand appliqué lace and satin flowers beautiful?

Photograph by Vera Wang.
A touch of sparkle! I l adore the crystal and bead embroidery on these dresses.

Photograph by Vera Wang.
The hand appliqué silk organza flowers give this edgy dress a feminine touch.

By Ruby Norris

With accessories from Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Gucci, celebrity trainers on Instagram, food and grooming tips on Pinterest and chic city hotspots promising five-star treatment, it is safe to say our dogs have never been so fashionable.

Photo Credit: Gilles Bensimon

From Hollywood to Paris via London, we've searched high and low for the best addresses and accessories for your pampered pooch. Take note as we round up the cream of the crop, to ensure your trusty companion is the chicest of them all.

What are the defining street style trends of the past 25-years? What makes Britain such a hotbed of youth culture style? And how does street style shape the culture around us..?

After spending much of 2014 working on a major youth culture project, these are all questions that I'm eager to explore. And good news, this December, a new exhibition opens in London's progress Londonnewcastle Project Space celebrating seminal moments in British streetwear from 1989 to present day.

89:14 has been curated by youth archivist Tony Turk to celebrate 25-years of iconic British streetwear brand Boxfresh and runs from December 4th to 7th. The exhibition will document the real reasons people chose a certain look and how trends can connect and mutate; creating tribes from the catwalk to the street. Visitors to the exhibition will be encouraged to interact with these archives and also join in the ever- evolving debate on music, fashion and street style.

Image c/o www.thestoneroses.org

A number of iconic looks from the last 25-years, styled by influential fashion and music innovators will be showcased, to capture the exact look and feel of British subcultures of this time.
Stylists of this space will include Olaf and Su Parker, integral to Boxfresh as original designers when the brand emerged in 1989, capturing the essence of Acid Jazz, 90's vintage label enthusiast Rhiannon Barry on the garage scene of the 1990's and designer Fiona Cartledge whose shop 'Sign of the Times' in Kensington Market was one of the most prominent providers of 90's nightclub wear throughout the 'acid house' era.

Other 89:14 stylists include Cass Pennant on Mods and The Donnelly Brothers on the 'Madchester' scene.

A lounge area will be created to showcase 'What We Wore'; a photographic 'People's Style History' project curated by Nina Manandhar whose work documenting youth culture has inspired 'What We Wore' - a project about people, their personal stories, why they wore what they did and what it meant for them. This live archive will be in residence throughout 89:14. Visitors are asked to add their own stories and memories to the first 'People's History' of British Youth Style by bringing in images for digitising.

Image c/o Rhiannon Barry

This lounge space will also showcase 'The Hyman Archive' and will concentrate on how popular culture has helped shape UK street style, with a live mind-map 'The Street Style Map' created by London illustrator and artist Jenni Sparks. The Hyman Archive; the largest collection of magazines in the world, is an integral part of the exhibition. This archive contains a history and time-line of printed popular culture with over 2,500 publications that span 1920s to present day.

Image c/o www.boxfresh.com

'The Street Style Map' will be a live map which will evolve throughout the course of the four day exhibition. Guests will be encouraged to participate and build the installation; resulting in a street style map filled with personal anecdotes spanning the last 25 years, by the people who were there, lived it and are still defining UK street wear.

89:14 is going to be a must-attend exhibition for everyone fascinated by street style and youth culture - both where it's been and where it's going. The people's stories. I can't wait!

In the Colour Analysis module in Gail Morgan's Personal Stylist 'Study in Style' Course, it was extraordinary to learn that humans are largely predisposed to a specific colour palette both on psychological and physical levels.

The first known observer of genetically-based personal colour selection was Johannes Itten (1888 - 1967) of the Bauhaus group in Germany. He discovered that when his students painted identical scenes, some would choose warm colours, whereas others would favour cool colours. This was of enormous interest to him and his research revealed that those using mostly warm colours had gold-toned skin and hair with warm coloured eyes, and the students who painted mostly in cool colours had a blue-pink skin tone, ash coloured hair and mostly blue or grey eyes. In fact this research formed the basis of his famous work 'The Art of Colour' which was published in 1961. And Gail was keen to explain that we do tend to pick the right colours 50% of the time and if we weren't influenced by fashion, friends and family members then we'd probably choose the right colours 100% of the time.

Initially, I must say I was a little skeptical of the theory, but when I reflected on my own life, I was amazed to discover that I had subconsciously built a chronological mental model based on the deep colours of autumn. For instance, my favourite childhood outfit was a deep red and green matching cardigan and dress, which I insisted on wearing on my first day at play school. In fact, I think the only childhood garments I clearly remember are those in this deep, warm colour range. Furthermore, I can clearly recall my Mother grasping a deep purple jumper on a shopping trip in Guildford in her late 70s and declaring that she'd suddenly become aware that she and I both suited and tended to favour strong colours (I believe she was also an autumn). And thinking about the men I am attracted to, although I've never had a specific 'looks type' - probably because there is a mixture of the French jet black and Irish fair/red hair across the males in my family - I must admit I've always found men attractive in deep coloured pullovers and brown suede jackets!

My mental model of colour isn't restricted to clothing - the dining room in the house in which I grew up was furnished in gold and browns and it was always my favourite room. And I have a special affection for the memory of a deep red family Volvo, as well as our old red brick early family home in the North. On the other hand, I have always been vaguely irritated by girly bedroom-type colours, which I felt weren't 'quite me' and fought with my natural tastes and disposition.

I believe my sister is a winter and needless to say is drawn to these deep, cool colours. In fact, I have a clear recollection of her tiny figure wrapping and rewrapping itself in the deep burgundy velvet curtains of my parents' bedroom and hearing her squeal with glee as she examined the shade. I was also astonished to recall that I'd once meticulously planned an entire flat refurbishment in exactly my colours.

It also seems my psychological colour scheme extends to my emotions in respect of nature, landscapes and public interiors. For instance, I am extremely moved by the likes of very deep orange summer sunsets, scenes of the New Forest or New England in autumn, holly and berries at Christmas and the liturgical purple and golds of Easter.

The list goes on and on, but what is clear is that this sense of 'right colour' is in the bones and is pervasive. And maybe it has to be visceral in this way because primitive man will have had to make swift navigational choices in order to locate his own and survive. And presumably small babies of all eras have derived a measure of security and comfort from this innate sense of knowing.

LIZZY is a street wear brand that carries the mantra, aspire to inspire, a fundamental part of its design and represents its place of conception, London city.
Created by UK rap artist Dion 'Sincere' Hamilton, the brand name LIZZY was birthed due to the influence of the term for getting money that comes from Queen Elizabeth.
Dion's innate love for street culture, Hip Hop and 80's and 90's films as well as his relationship with fashion are apparent in the design and have enabled him to create a luxury sports wear aesthetic.

Dion explained that "LIZZY was a term that I was using on the street, in London, and it was important to incorporate that into the brand."

After an unprecedented amount of support for LIZZY clothing from global icons including Rick Ross, Rita Ora and also UK pioneers such as Wretch 32 and Giggs, as the creative director Dion explained that "London was the inspiration."

#GETLIZZY collection combines classic sportswear and contemporary patterns with graphics inspired by London and the brands aspire to inspire motto.

Products available in the collection include jackets, headwear, jumpers, shirts and t-shirts.

Previously the collection has been more minimalist with the release of snap backs and t-shirts with a simple design and Dion has waited for the opportune moment to bring LIZZY to fruition.

#GETLIZZY
WWW.LIZZYCLOTHING.COM || TWITTER.COM/LIZZYCLOTHING || INSTAGRAM.COM/LIZZYCLOTHING || FACEBOOK.COM/LIZZYCLOTHING

I'm a firm believer that being positive is always a bigger win, personally and professionally, than being negative. Looking on the bright side, seeing the glass half full, trusting that every cloud has a silver lining - they may well feel like clichés but they fundamentally lie at the heart of the way I choose to live. I'm not pious about it, everyone can have a bad day - I just try to keep things as upbeat as possible. How do I do this? With my kids, we sit down and work through arguments together. Pre-teen strops too. Failing that, there's always wine (well, nobody's perfect).

With the Baukjen brand, I veto anything that feels unconstructive or negative. Fashion is creative. Getting dressed can and should be fun, so providing guidance rather than making rules is at the heart of the business. Dos and Don'ts features? You won't find them here. This means that right now, like the same time every year, the promise of the New Year brings its challenges. All those Resolutions - I feel obliged to make some. After all, it's how we benchmark the success of the year that's just been, isn't it? But it does rather fly in the face of my positive outlook. I asked some of the team what they promised themselves this year and what might be on the agenda for next. Losing weight, no more nail biting and joining the gym were a pretty popular trio of answers for both 2014 and 2015. Tough too. And these were from successful, talented and dedicated women who in my eyes should be celebrating their achievements, not assessing their perceived failures - why do we put such pressure on ourselves?

So, for 2015, my resolutions are going to be about starting new things and enriching my life. There are also only four of them and if for any reason I haven't quite kept them up throughout January I won't be throwing them out until 2016. Why? Because there's always February. And then, there are always Mondays, or more to the point, there's always tomorrow.

So, here they are:

1. I'd like to teach the kids how to cook. It's a simple one and something I love when we do it, so I'm going to make every effort to clear one weekend evening every week, pick a recipe with the kids and cook it together.

2. I spend a lot of time on email and social media. It's part of the job. It's also part of everyday life, but I do sometimes realise that I haven't always actually had a voice-to-voice conversation with some of the people I'm closest to for, well, for more time than I'm comfortable with. So, I'm aiming to speak to all of my family members and closest friends once every couple of weeks. This is not a difficult task - it's just as it should be.

3. I'm going to take a walk at least four times a week. This is something I've already started to do, and lo and behold, that whole exercise feel good factor that people talk about is true. I really do feel good after a walk. I'm also very lucky to live near Hampstead Heath. And my kids like coming with me too so it's a triple win.

4. I'm going to book meetings in my diary with myself. I try to do this one already but the time slots often get cancelled or at the very least, they're squeezed, so I'm promising myself to not get as bogged down in the day-to-day in a bid to spend a little more time on the bigger picture. Get more inspiration for collections, styling, creative etc. I like this one. I think everyone benefits from looking at the big picture.
So here's to being a little kinder to ourselves. And remember, tomorrow will be there to try again.

Wishing you a happy and healthy 2015.
Baukjen

There are two main components of personal styling taught by Gail Morgan on the Study in Style Course and they are Colour Analysis and understanding how to flatter different body shapes and figures utilising the correct garments, fabrics and accessories.

There are 3 elements of personal style analysis - they are Line, Scale and Proportion - all of which have a bearing on the cut, fabric weave, fabric texture and pattern of the garments you should be wearing, along with the appropriate details and finishes.

When we consider line, we are looking at an individual's body and face to see where there are straight and/or curved lines. Note that we are looking at the individual's skeletal shape, NOT the amount of flesh padding out the bones. Key elements of this analysis exercise include looking at the individual's shoulders, waist, hips, face and jawline. For instance, are their shoulders straight or sloping? Is the waist defined or not? Are the hips flared or straight? Are the lips straight /thin or curved/full? Is the jawline curved or angular?

An individual could be curved or straight all over, or could be a combination of both. The bottom line is that if we reflect our facial and bodylines in our clothing lines, we will look more congruent and comfortable.

To give examples of the importance of establishing your correct bodyline, imagine how difficult it is to cover a football with wrapping paper and how dreadful it looks - much easier and nicer to see it wrapped in soft fabric.

An individual can possess different lines on different parts of their body, or possess one line that characterises most of the body. For example, a figure will generally fall into one of the following categories:

- straight top half with a curvy bottom
- curvy top half with straighter hips
- straight all over
- curvy all over

And the general rules for choosing garments with details that flatter your shape are as follows:

- if you are curvy all over, select only curved details
- if you are straight all over, select only straight details
- if you are a combination, then select garments that comprise a combination of the two

For example, when I first visited an image consultant and was diagnosed as a 'straightie', I became aware that everything about me was mostly angular and straight. For instance, I have straight shoulders, a pointed jaw, thin straight lips, 'oriental-shaped' eyes, high cheekbones and a 'straightish' figure. My chest is rounder, but in a sense is lost in the configuration of hard lines. On the other hand, my Mother had sloping shoulders, a round face and a round bottom. And this made me aware that whilst my Mother looked frumpy if she wore anything with hard lines such as a black safari-style shirt or straight black trousers, I tend to look unkempt in outfits that have roundness and volume. Examples are flared skirts and tops, as well as round necks. On the other hand, denim and leather jackets, as well as suit jackets and shirts have always enhanced my appearance.

A great example of a shopping mistake I made was when I bought a designer dress in a sale. It was straight with a v-neck, so I knew it was congruent with my line. However, I was in a hurry and failed to notice that there were two decorative seams that resembled 'motorway arrows' and lay horizontally across the expanse of the bottom half of the dress. And every time I wear it, I appear to gain pounds on my thighs!

'Follow the line', therefore, is fundamental to good dressing, as it is all a question of visual blending. And although one might consider such advice to be restrictive, I think it is evidence that anyone can look super regardless of shape. You only have to consider how good Dawn French looks when she is wearing outfits that suit her line. In fact, I believe an understanding of the theory would weaken the diet industry's influence. And in some respects it doesn't surprise me that the 'rise and rise' of the diet industry has largely occurred following the shunning of needlework, due to lower clothing prices. And as we are naturally drawn to our own colours, perhaps we naturally know how to shape ourselves - evidence for which I need look no further than the memory of two Great Aunts. These two attractive ladies were fabulously curved who dressed beautifully and were never short of admirers. Perhaps we should spend more time on body design than interior design - and adopt some of the latter's principles of shape for 'furnishing our forms'!

In the forthcoming parts two, three and four of this personal body sculpting blog, I will talk about Scale and Proportion. In the meantime, if you'd like to learn more about Gail Morgan's excellent Personal Stylist Course, then please visit: www.studyinstyletraining.com

I've been a vegan for five years, and people frequently ask me to explain what's wrong with wearing wool.

Last week, I was at Somerset House, where the finals of Woolmark's menswear design competition took place as part of Men's Fashion Week. I had a bloodied "lamb" in tow to show people what's wrong with wearing wool. Everything about the production of wool is objectionable, especially the shearing process which often leaves sheep battered and bloodied, the widespread Australian practice of mulesing - a barbaric procedure during which huge swaths of flesh and skin are carved from lambs' backsides in a crude attempt to prevent a maggot infestation - and the live exportation trade, in which tens of thousands of sensitive sheep suffer on arduous journeys from Australia to the Middle East and North Africa, where they're violently slaughtered for their flesh.

Most people don't know that Woolmark is a trademark owned by Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), a company whose main objective is to promote the use of wool within the fashion industry. Woolmark uses marketing ploys and gimmicks to encourage the use of wool, including the "design competition" hosted at Somerset House last week.

wool protest

Last year, PETA US, whose motto reads in part that "animals are not ours to wear", released its international exposé of the wool industry in the US and Australia - the source of 90% of the world's merino wool. The harrowing footage shows workers stamping and standing on sheep's heads, violently punching them in the face, and hitting them on the head with electric clippers and hammers. The investigators revealed that some sheep even died from the abuse, including one whose neck was twisted so violently that it broke. These are not isolated incidents. The investigators worked undercover at more than 30 farms and wool sheds over a period of several months. Taken together, these shearing crews likely shear millions of sheep every year.

It's easy to see why such abuse is commonplace. Most shearers are paid by volume, not by the hour, which means that they are motivated to work as quickly as they can, with little regard for the sheep's welfare. Sheep sustain gaping wounds, and workers crudely sew up the worst of them without giving them any pain relief whatsoever. PETA US investigators never saw anyone reprimanded for abusive treatment of sheep nor did they witness any veterinary care administered to the animals. Instead, injured sheep were shot dead right in front of their companions, and one was even butchered and left in full view of other terrified sheep.

Life for British sheep is no easier. In the UK, wool producers subject lambs to painful mutilations such as tail amputation and castration - all without the use of anaesthetics. It is considered normal in the wool industry for at least 4% of young lambs to die every spring, primarily of malnutrition. Lameness caused by untreated scald and foot rot (painful bacterial infections) is found in approximately 18% of British flocks, and many ewes are killed just to prevent them from passing an infection on to other sheep.

wool protest

Many consumers and retailers - including Marks & Spencer, ASOS, UNIQLO, Topshop and H&M - avoid wool that comes from mulesed sheep. The pain from the wounds caused by mulesing is so intense that it often causes lambs to walk sideways like crabs. Many of these wounds can take weeks to heal - and some never do. Boycotting wool from mulesed sheep is a good first step, but buying any wool means potentially supporting the kind of abuse and suffering exposed by the PETA US investigation.

The only way to be sure we're not buying into cruelty is to leave wool - and all other clothing made from animals - out of our wardrobes. With so many humane, warm and stylish fabrics, including rayon, cotton, ramie, woven metal, soya silk, acrylic, nylon and microfibre, there really can be no excuse for supporting the violent wool industry. To find out more about this issue, visit PETA's website.

There are few places today where we aren't able to see our reflection - mirrors abound, selfies taken at every opportunity not to mention the media obsession with perfect looks.

Yoga is one of the only spaces where all devices are out of sight and the external is abandoned.

I used to hear friends singing its praises when I was in my hard core spin phase. No pain no gain. But one day I caught myself grimacing in one of the mirrors, sweat poring down my gaunt face and I knew something wasn't quite right. For sport for me was about getting thin or competing with the other nutter cyclist next to me.

When I discovered yoga I was going through some very tough times and my confidence was at an all time low - broken marriage, job loss and no home (my parents kindly took me in). So I took myself off to Australia to escape it all, my equivalent of Pray in Eat Pray Love. I had done the odd yoga class in some uber trendy corner of London but nothing prepared me for this. Doing sun salutations to the actual sun, learning Buddhist wisdoms about synchronicity, intentions and love.

I gave up all external trappings for a while, ate raw food, dyed my hair with henna and refused to kill even an ant.

Of course I had to come back from this hippy bubble at some point but it armed me for life, for a few months later my father fell I'll with terminal cancer and without my mat I wouldn't have been able to help with him with comforts such as meditation.

Yoga is for everyone of every age of every agility. Its not just for the young buff brigade. Gandhi apparently practised it till he died in his 70s. It is an hour and half journey on the inside through postures that activate all kinds of energy fields as well as nervous system and muscles. At the beginning it can seem long boring even but after a while when the head stops nagging with annoying thoughts but after a while a peace sets in. Its almost as if you are under water and the crashing waves on the surface are your life.

The world we live in can be toxic, and pollute us with negative thoughts and behaviours. Feeling low, checking facebook, seeing cool friends hang out without you. Work isn't much fun, its tempting to go out drinking after. Boyfriend issues can lead to us indulging in bingeing.

There is a yoga posture for every problem. Heres a quick taster of what you could be experiencing.

Feel like you'll never meet the 'one'?

Back bends (or the crab) - these are incredible heart openers, bring up all kinds of emotions. I once burst into tears after one for I had stored up so much hurt. They also stretch out the chest and free up our airways.

Don't believe in yourself?

Headstand - this is often a freaky posture, as it literally turns our world upside down. But with the right teacher you can work up to doing a free standing version which gives you such a sense of achievement.

Anxious and nervous about little things?

Meditation - easier said than done, but sitting cross legged against a wall for support for ten minutes can reset the brain totally and if you do it for 21 days it can change your state of mind considerably. There are heaps of good techniques online. I always like to focus on a word that's important to me at the time - peace, freedom, compassion. Say the word over and over again, if things come into your head don't fight against them let them drift in and out. Buddhists believe if we think something hard enough it can come true or manifest.

Feeling afraid of facing a problem?

Warrior pose - this is the yogic equivalent of getting ready for a fight. Stand with your feet part, front leg forward and bend it, then stretch arms out before and behind. You feel immediately empowered, especially if you stare through your middle finger into the distance. Imagine its the thing you fear, stare straight into its eye.

Feeling lonely, need a hug?

Happy baby pose - (or dead bug) - simply lie on your back lift legs up, hold on to them and rock around like a baby in a cradle. It will get you giggling despite yourself.

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